Chim's 99
- Thread starter Chim
- Start date
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
Nice! I like the spare sticker too [emoji1360]
Keeping miles off the 4Runner sounds real nice.
Keeping miles off the 4Runner sounds real nice.
Chim
New member
Got more stripped off the 99... Just taking my time but I'm getting to the point where I really need to get rid of it. I just hate leaving stuff on it that could be potentially useful :/
Then I pulled off my running boards finally.
Then after seeing a couple others use the Paranoid Fabrication lower DIN switch panel I decided to change things up a bit. I ordered the bracket and now I need to remove my CB from under the stereo. I don't want to run a small CB in the ash tray location because I really love my ashtray for coffee punch cards and change. So I think I may switch to a CB that is integrated into the mic like Cobra or Midland.
Thinking about this:
Or maybe this:
My current setup:
Then I pulled off my running boards finally.
Then after seeing a couple others use the Paranoid Fabrication lower DIN switch panel I decided to change things up a bit. I ordered the bracket and now I need to remove my CB from under the stereo. I don't want to run a small CB in the ash tray location because I really love my ashtray for coffee punch cards and change. So I think I may switch to a CB that is integrated into the mic like Cobra or Midland.
Thinking about this:
Or maybe this:
My current setup:
Chim
New member
I was painting my inclinometer Sunday using the paint I found on this forum as the paint that matches the tan interior... Here is what I found:
In the left is the factory dome light/ sunglasses holder - on the right is my inclinometer painted recommended SEM "Light Oak" 15752. Not even close to the dark part of the interior but looks like it matches the lighter part fine.
In this pic my field monitor is painted Rustoleum Satin "Nutmeg" on the left. Pretty close to the other tan. I would really like to find a color that matched the darker tan in the interior :/
I pulled my field monitor out because I got my hands on a factory tan one and I wasn't pleased with the paint on the old one. Primer wasn't the right stuff so it was flaking
So I swapped them out on Sunday as well.
Pic of old field monitor color for reference:
In the left is the factory dome light/ sunglasses holder - on the right is my inclinometer painted recommended SEM "Light Oak" 15752. Not even close to the dark part of the interior but looks like it matches the lighter part fine.
In this pic my field monitor is painted Rustoleum Satin "Nutmeg" on the left. Pretty close to the other tan. I would really like to find a color that matched the darker tan in the interior :/
I pulled my field monitor out because I got my hands on a factory tan one and I wasn't pleased with the paint on the old one. Primer wasn't the right stuff so it was flaking
So I swapped them out on Sunday as well.Pic of old field monitor color for reference:
phattyduck
Elite Member
I've read in the past that SEM Castella 15223 is a good match... no personal experience yet though! (I have a field monitor that needs to be installed, sitting in the living room...)
-Charlie
-Charlie
Chim
New member
Chim
New member
I think I'm going to start tackling my front diff swap really soon. Not looking forward to it but its one of the major projects I have sitting around ready to go and its the reason I got a new daily so I could start getting these kinds of projects done. Ugh... I will keep you posted.
Small update:
Dropped the used skids off that I bought here for powder coating. Aluminum looks cool but too much bling so I am changing to black.
Also had a guy come pick up a part saturday and ended up selling him the stock spoiler off my runner. I figured it would be motivation to get my Hilux installed sooner.
Small update:
Dropped the used skids off that I bought here for powder coating. Aluminum looks cool but too much bling so I am changing to black.
Also had a guy come pick up a part saturday and ended up selling him the stock spoiler off my runner. I figured it would be motivation to get my Hilux installed sooner.
Chim
New member
Last night I decided to start tearing apart my front end for my ARB diff swap and some maintenance. I am going to chip at it instead of trying to get it all done super quick and get irritated and frustrated during the process.
Here is my step by step of the first hour and fifteen minutes I put in last night. I know it doesn't seem like much but after working all day its hard to get motivation to work late on this.
1. Pull wheel off - remove axle nut cover, cotter pin, cotter pin shield (or whatever its called).
2. Put wheel back on - Using a breaker bar remove axle nut.
3. Take wheel back off.
4. Using factory jack - push down suspension from upper control arm then remove (4) lower ball joint bolts.
5. Release jack pressure, pull spindle out and hammer axle out of spindle. When out, swing spindle assembly to the side.
6. Using a crow bar or a tapered screw driver and hammer release CV joint from housing and set aside.
7. Repeat on other side.
8. Stop for the night, have a drink and play some Destiny
(Ignore how rusty my brakes are. I haven't driven my runner in almost two months)
Here is my step by step of the first hour and fifteen minutes I put in last night. I know it doesn't seem like much but after working all day its hard to get motivation to work late on this.
1. Pull wheel off - remove axle nut cover, cotter pin, cotter pin shield (or whatever its called).
2. Put wheel back on - Using a breaker bar remove axle nut.
3. Take wheel back off.
4. Using factory jack - push down suspension from upper control arm then remove (4) lower ball joint bolts.
5. Release jack pressure, pull spindle out and hammer axle out of spindle. When out, swing spindle assembly to the side.
6. Using a crow bar or a tapered screw driver and hammer release CV joint from housing and set aside.
7. Repeat on other side.
8. Stop for the night, have a drink and play some Destiny
(Ignore how rusty my brakes are. I haven't driven my runner in almost two months)
Chim
New member
Here is a step by step on the next hour and 15min of my front diff swap:
1. Remove the (4) 14mm front drive shaft bolts. These were not fun to get to but once you figure out a method for one it goes pretty quick.
2. Remove the (2) front diff support bracket bolts.
3. I removed the plastic barriers in wheel well so I could get my hand on top of diff and unplug connection and get vacuum line off.
4. Remove the 12mm Allen head sleeve from rear bottom side of diff.
5. I then used the factory jack and a punch to push that same stud up out of the frame bushing. (See pic below)
6. Wrestle with diff to come out for 20min with no luck. Tell your son to come out and see whats binding while you wiggle diff around. As soon as he gets ready to speak it shifts and falls out No engine lift, didn't have to remove rear diff mount. There is a sweet spot for it to fall out. (Getting it back in may be a bear).
**Now I need to swap over the actuators. The early style 99 with the ARB is different than my 02. Hopefully they swap right over. That will be next.
(Yes I know the red jacks are not holding anything up. They are there for back up because I hate working under vehicles.)
All clear!
The two diffs. Stock 02 in rear. 99 with ARB in front.
1999 Actuator.
2002 Actuator.
1. Remove the (4) 14mm front drive shaft bolts. These were not fun to get to but once you figure out a method for one it goes pretty quick.
2. Remove the (2) front diff support bracket bolts.
3. I removed the plastic barriers in wheel well so I could get my hand on top of diff and unplug connection and get vacuum line off.
4. Remove the 12mm Allen head sleeve from rear bottom side of diff.
5. I then used the factory jack and a punch to push that same stud up out of the frame bushing. (See pic below)
6. Wrestle with diff to come out for 20min with no luck. Tell your son to come out and see whats binding while you wiggle diff around. As soon as he gets ready to speak it shifts and falls out
No engine lift, didn't have to remove rear diff mount. There is a sweet spot for it to fall out. (Getting it back in may be a bear).**Now I need to swap over the actuators. The early style 99 with the ARB is different than my 02. Hopefully they swap right over. That will be next.
(Yes I know the red jacks are not holding anything up. They are there for back up because I hate working under vehicles.)
All clear!
The two diffs. Stock 02 in rear. 99 with ARB in front.
1999 Actuator.
2002 Actuator.
JWaldz
Moderator
Oh the joy of swapping the front diff lol.. Very rewarding though, especially cus of the ARB locker. Get ready to invest in some (more) spare CV axles.
BTW, word of advice... I don't always trust the parking/emergency brake to do it's job when I have the front end on jacks. Especially now since I don't have one at all haha. Be sure to throw something in front and behind a rear tire to "chalk" it from the truck rolling on you!
BTW, word of advice... I don't always trust the parking/emergency brake to do it's job when I have the front end on jacks. Especially now since I don't have one at all haha. Be sure to throw something in front and behind a rear tire to "chalk" it from the truck rolling on you!
Chim
New member
Yeah I thought about the axle problem but I was willing to move forward. I do have spare axles and I am going to do a manual hub swap so I am thinking if one does break with the manual hubs I wont have to stop right where I am at to fix. And now that I have done axles a couple times they really aren't too bad to do anymore.. still not fun but not scary.
Good idea about the rear wheels. I used to never worry about crawling under vehicles but as I get older I worry more about that sort of thing :/
Chim
New member
This weekend I got a little more done.
Before putting the new diff back in I replaced the axle seals on both ends. Then I needed to swap over the 4wd actuators. Thankfully they were a direct swap.
After the new one was all prepped I pushed it under the runner, tipped it up on end then lifted it up in there while trying to balance and shimmy it into position. This sucked. But after a couple trys it went right in and I only spent a few minutes working on this.. which was a good thing cause my arms couldnt take much more with the angle I was at. But it went in easier than it came out. So I got it all bolted in and most everything hooked up. I cant reach the breather port to get the breather tube back on because its so tight so I will have to lower the diff back down a little bit so I can reach it. Not a big deal. Once I do that and connect the drive shaft that part of the job is complete. Then it will be on to ball joints and tie rod ends. I am also contemplating if I want to do my TBU right now. My brakes are good right now so maybe I will just wait. I am worried about having a crappy pedal like some do when switching brakes on later models.
Before putting the new diff back in I replaced the axle seals on both ends. Then I needed to swap over the 4wd actuators. Thankfully they were a direct swap.
After the new one was all prepped I pushed it under the runner, tipped it up on end then lifted it up in there while trying to balance and shimmy it into position. This sucked. But after a couple trys it went right in and I only spent a few minutes working on this.. which was a good thing cause my arms couldnt take much more with the angle I was at. But it went in easier than it came out. So I got it all bolted in and most everything hooked up. I cant reach the breather port to get the breather tube back on because its so tight so I will have to lower the diff back down a little bit so I can reach it. Not a big deal. Once I do that and connect the drive shaft that part of the job is complete. Then it will be on to ball joints and tie rod ends. I am also contemplating if I want to do my TBU right now. My brakes are good right now so maybe I will just wait. I am worried about having a crappy pedal like some do when switching brakes on later models.
Chim
New member
No front end ARB and refresh updates.. its kinda sitting there in limbo.. waiting for motivation for that. I got side tracked by a couple other different front end things.
Decided to take my 02 grill and prep it to get it ready to paint. I am going to paint all the chrome body matched and re-paint the black (sport style).
Then I painted my headlight housings that I had ready for my 99 4runner black to go in the 02. I have had this retro fit setup for a while now and figured might as well do it. I need to get them mounted and see how the cut off line is before I put the lenses back on.
I need to be careful about tearing too many things apart at once otherwise my runner will be parked all summer and I don't want that! Its a slippery slope!
Decided to take my 02 grill and prep it to get it ready to paint. I am going to paint all the chrome body matched and re-paint the black (sport style).
Then I painted my headlight housings that I had ready for my 99 4runner black to go in the 02. I have had this retro fit setup for a while now and figured might as well do it. I need to get them mounted and see how the cut off line is before I put the lenses back on.
I need to be careful about tearing too many things apart at once otherwise my runner will be parked all summer and I don't want that! Its a slippery slope!
Chim
New member
I made some headway on the retrofits this weekend. There is so much wiring for these things with halo's!!!! Right now they were tested, test mounted and now they are all tightened up. I currently rtv'd the openings where the wires come through in the back but once that sets up I will work on getting the lenses back on and calling it finished.
Then I got a fun package from Japan!!
Got a couple rear cargo mats. Going to keep one and sell the other. They are pretty cool, heavy duty and water proof.
Then what I am really excited about.... JDM rear SSR-X wing, factory painted and with all new hardware included! This was a unicorn find for me being it matched perfect with all the goodies!! I have a SSR-G spoiler with the motorized mirror but I am going to wait on that for a while (plus its black and although matches the bumpers good its not as clean as this). These are just pics of holding it up, not actually mounted. I need to figure out how to mount this.
Then I got a fun package from Japan!!
Got a couple rear cargo mats. Going to keep one and sell the other. They are pretty cool, heavy duty and water proof.
Then what I am really excited about.... JDM rear SSR-X wing, factory painted and with all new hardware included! This was a unicorn find for me being it matched perfect with all the goodies!! I have a SSR-G spoiler with the motorized mirror but I am going to wait on that for a while (plus its black and although matches the bumpers good its not as clean as this). These are just pics of holding it up, not actually mounted. I need to figure out how to mount this.
I'll throw in my $0.02 here (or maybe $0.01, LOL). I'm new on this site, but been doing the IFS thing for 15 years now, on two different generation IFS, and while I haven't done super hard rock crawling, I've been successfully (no winch assistance) up several of Colorado's more challenging trails (Blanca Peak, Holy Cross to the city, the Chutes, and so forth). Hopefully below hasn't been covered too much before (hard to wade through the whole forum).
Point 1:
Front lockers will save the axles, provided you remember what you are doing. If you try to turn full lock into a ledge, and give it a bootfull, the axle will break. But if you keep your head in the game and try to keep the axles within their working angles, they will hold up fine (up to 33's, after that, no guarantees).
What I've learned the hard way: you must get factory axles (remanned or new is fine, the main point is they need to be Japanese steel). I have put several parts store "lifetime warranty" axles into my various IFS set ups. All busted or blew apart within a few months. Toyota factory, I only broke with an open front. Lifetime warranty is a joke. Sure, you get a free axle, but the hassle, time and aggravation on the trail is worth buying factory new 10x over.
What usually breaks axles is shock load, which happens with an open front IFS all the time. The usual situation is trying to get through something, a tire is in the air, and then the truck bounces down, bringing the tire to an immediate stop while under power. Also, I'm sure most know, but in case not, with an open diff, when you have a tire in the air (and the other stopped on the ground), that tire is spinning 2x as fast as your ring gear. So the loading is pretty bad.
With a front locker, you can often keep going forward in a slower, controlled fashion, particularly if you also have lower gearing.
Now, I'm in the Colorado mountains, so I have the luxury of slow, non -mud type wheeling. I realize that people in other places where mud is a common thing need to keep momentum up, and they will probably break stuff more often.
I post this as a counter to the 100's of posts I've read over the years about how front lockers break stuff. If you learn the system, you can keep the truck together through some pretty rough stuff (at least the axles and diffs, alignment is another matter).
I'm not saying that you should not get spares, I always have a couple in the truck. But rather that I wouldn't worry about it so much.
Point 2:
Manual hub axles neck down further than the ADD style. A buddy of mine (long since SAS'd) had a manual hub truck, and those things broke constantly. I don't have stress test data or anything other than experience, but seeing his axles vs mine and seeing them break caused me to rethink going manual hub.
You might be fine, but I would at least look into it before you go spending the time to swap it.
Point 3:
LOVE the truck. I'm really wanting to get one of those surf spoilers. Really nice job with it. Also waiting to see how the interior paint turns out. I need to paint a couple pieces and can't find the right color.
Anyway, as always, take this jibber jabber for what its worth, LOL. I'm just some dude on the interwebs with long rambling posts,
Hope its helpful to you!
