Clicking behind driverside dash, then stalls

[nolo]

Hey everyone. Well, i've had a strange happening the past few days. I'll be driving and hear what I think is a relay (or two wires touching and making the electricity sound!) and then I lose power, and sometimes it stalls. I've replaced all plugs/wires, fuel filter, and ive tried to recreate the noise when I'm in driveway so i can stick my head under the dash and listen, but to no avail.

i'm pretty sure it's a relay, but i can't figure out where the sound is coming from, other than behind the dash because it happens when i'm driving. it's a 2000 4wd v6 (non-cali). the cel is on (but it's only for o2 sensors), and when the car stalls, the cel goes VERY dim and all the other lights come on. i don't know where to look. anyone have/had this problem? thanks for your help.

 

[nolo]

eureka! it did it while i was under the dash finally. i narrowed it down to a relay that plugs into the back of the white fuse box under drivers side dash. the relay that is malfunctioning is 90987-02012.

hopefully i can make it to wherever to get a replacement!? i wonder how much this costs...

 

[drmorbius]

eureka! it did it while i was under the dash finally. i narrowed it down to a relay that plugs into the back of the white fuse box under drivers side dash. the relay that is malfunctioning is 90987-02012.

hopefully i can make it to wherever to get a replacement!? i wonder how much this costs...

Is this the relay that is clicking?

 

[nolo]

Is this the relay that is clicking?

I don't think so. If you look at the top picture, the part on the lower right, which looks like a white plastic piece sticking out, has a relay attached to the back. that's the one i swapped with the "defogger" relay from under the hood. thought all was well and headed to toyota to pick up the new "fix", however it died EVERy time I slowed down. so, i left it with toyota. 199$ fee to do an electrical system trace behind the dash. I wish i could've done it myself but i just don't have the time, and now toyota has my money

thanks for the pic though. i know if i had a few days so i could tinker behind the dash i could probably find it, but i just don't have the time.

 

[nolo]

Toyota just called me back. They claim it's my ECU - part num 89666-35141. part costs 1k, with one hour of labor charged. do the ecu's just go bad like that? i've googled around and can't find a place that sells this particular part number online... does anyone know offhand where i can find it for less than 1k?

 

[juiceboxer]

The only place you will find a cheaper ECU would be a junkyard, or a part out...

 

[nolo]

picked it up from toyota. stalling as soon as i slow down or come to a stop.

 

[nolo]

small update:

I took the dash apart. I checked the ecm, making sure everything is plugged up tight, took the combination meter (cluster gauge) apart (my D light is out, but it comes on intermittently, does anyone know if this would contribute? seems like there may be a short in the unit?) I cleaned the contacts on the cluster gauges, then reassembled. It's been running fine for 15 minutes.

Right before it stalls/dies, there is a click behind the dash then it goes kaput. It sounds like a relay, but I've looked and looked and only see that one relay referenced earlier in this thread. I fixed the dash lights (btw, the relay/fuse that controls the dash lights is the "TAIL" relay in the engine junction box, I caused them to go out when I removed that relay for the swap).

I'm wondering if there is an idle relay, or something of that nature? Truck idles fine though, until it doesn't :shrug:

any thoughts?

 

[Qyota]

Here's something obvious...have you checked to see why you're getting a CEL for the O2 sensor(s)? I'd look into that first. Perhaps you have a clogged catalytic converter, or perhaps the downstream sensor is fooked, screwing up your A/F ratio. You're probably running really rich if that's the case.

Get a complete scan done to see what codes are stored, and take care of those first. Another reason to have a ScangaugeII on hand...but autozone can help you here.

ECUs can be found on eBay and a few other places....or there are options for rebuilding.

 

[nolo]

Here's something obvious...have you checked to see why you're getting a CEL for the O2 sensor(s)? I'd look into that first. Perhaps you have a clogged catalytic converter, or perhaps the downstream sensor is fooked, screwing up your A/F ratio. You're probably running really rich if that's the case.

Get a complete scan done to see what codes are stored, and take care of those first. Another reason to have a ScangaugeII on hand...but autozone can help you here.

ECUs can be found on eBay and a few other places....or there are options for rebuilding.

Yessir. I've changed both O2 sensors, the cat, and the muffler. Codes still on. Toyota only focused on those issues, and gave me the print out w/ freeze frame data and said all is well, and they are not sure why those codes are on. And it's a non-cali, so there is no a/f.

i'm about to check the relays for resistance w/ an ohm meter. that's the only other thing i can think of.

 

[TheDurk]

If it tends to die when you are stopped or have your foot off the gas, braking, for example, this could be a sign of battery connection trouble, corrosion inside cable, bad ground, etc. Relay clicking could be a symptom of a momentary power loss that also kills engine, rather than the cause of the stall.

I am not saying it is the cause, but you would be stupid not to check out the possibility. Ask me why I say this. When I first saw this thread, you had already gone to change the ECU, and I was thinking, I bet that ain't it. Typical dealer tech, change the most expensive part in the vicinity of the problem.

I'll go out on a limb here and assert that a relay clicking is generally not the fault of the clicking relay itself, but something in the circuit leading to its coil or the ground thereof.

 

[nolo]

If it tends to die when you are stopped or have your foot off the gas, braking, for example, this could be a sign of battery connection trouble, corrosion inside cable, bad ground, etc. Relay clicking could be a symptom of a momentary power loss that also kills engine, rather than the cause of the stall.

I am not saying it is the cause, but you would be stupid not to check out the possibility. Ask me why I say this. When I first saw this thread, you had already gone to change the ECU, and I was thinking, I bet that ain't it. Typical dealer tech, change the most expensive part in the vicinity of the problem.

The relay that is clicking on and off is the Circuit opening Relay:

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL...f/02rmsour/2002/024runne/sf5vzfe/cor/comp.pdf

I did NOT change the ECU. I dont' think that's the issue. I'm tending towards something with this Circuit relay, and fuel issue. I'm going to go research more, and test with an ohm meter the fuel pump stuff. will report back soon. Oh, and my battery is new too. No corrosion on the terminals. Probably only 3 months old. I tested the batt just to make sure, and it's sitting at about 12.75 volts, when the car is running it's 14.x. thanks for the tip though, i'm losing massive amounts of faith in my toyota dealer.

 

[drmorbius]

If it tends to die when you are stopped or have your foot off the gas, braking, for example, this could be a sign of battery connection trouble, corrosion inside cable, bad ground, etc. Relay clicking could be a symptom of a momentary power loss that also kills engine, rather than the cause of the stall.

I am not saying it is the cause, but you would be stupid not to check out the possibility. Ask me why I say this. When I first saw this thread, you had already gone to change the ECU, and I was thinking, I bet that ain't it. Typical dealer tech, change the most expensive part in the vicinity of the problem.

I'll go out on a limb here and assert that a relay clicking is generally not the fault of the clicking relay itself, but something in the circuit leading to its coil or the ground thereof.

:iagree:

 

[nolo]

I am checking all the hoses for vacuum leaks now. Noticed on the "DIAG" port on the drivers side of the engine, there was a bolt ground running from the diag port to the engine that was wayyyy loose. I tightened it up. My PCV valve looks like it's leaking too. Going to go ahead and replace it. Would that cause my symptoms? PCV's are cheap, so figured i'd do it. Also may clean my idle air control.

 

[drmorbius]

The relay that is clicking on and off is the Circuit opening Relay:

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL...f/02rmsour/2002/024runne/sf5vzfe/cor/comp.pdf

I did NOT change the ECU. I dont' think that's the issue. I'm tending towards something with this Circuit relay, and fuel issue. I'm going to go research more, and test with an ohm meter the fuel pump stuff. will report back soon. Oh, and my battery is new too. No corrosion on the terminals. Probably only 3 months old. I tested the batt just to make sure, and it's sitting at about 12.75 volts, when the car is running it's 14.x. thanks for the tip though, i'm losing massive amounts of faith in my toyota dealer.[/QUOTE

That relay goes to your fuel pump so maybe plugged filter or just bad fuel pump.

 

[nolo]

Update: I removed PCV valve. It was completely gunked up, and the little ball no longer worked in it to make it a one way valve. It was just open. Fixed that issue, and tightened up the loose ground on the engine itself. Drove about 50+ miles. Stop and go. No issues whatsoever. Idles perfectly. My CEL is off too (replaced o2/cat/muffler a while ago, and light always stayed on). Not sure if the PCV can cause the issues I was having or if it was the ground? Anyways, I think it's fixed now.:trophy:

 

[TheDurk]

If it tends to die when you are stopped or have your foot off the gas, braking, for example, this could be a sign of battery connection trouble, corrosion inside cable, bad ground, etc. Relay clicking could be a symptom of a momentary power loss that also kills engine, rather than the cause of the stall.

I am unsure if a PCV can stall an engine (I don't think so) but it sure won't cause a relay to stutter. It was the ground.

 

[juiceboxer]

It was most likely the ground that caused the stalling. If the PCV was stuck closed it would build up excessive carankcase pressure and could cause some problems.