Clock spring issue?

emelianenkov

New member
I have been having an issue with my steering wheel controls not lighting up for a while. Here is what's happening: when my steering wheel is mostly straight, the volume controls don't light up, but when I turn the wheel left or right, they light up fine.

Has anyone run into this issue? Have you replaced the clock spring? What part number did you use?

Thanks!
 
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Most of the clock springs seem to be the same style/set-up across a lot of vehicles.

That being said, factory clock springs are expensive buggers and I'm not sure I'd trust a non-factory part for that.

If you have some time and a DVOM I would go ahead and pop the airbag off and do a continuity test between the plug going into the Clock Spring on the column side and the connector for the volume controls (look up the illumination wires on the EWD.) Then just turn the wheel slowly to see where it cuts out.
 
That sounds like the NASCAR modification.

Lmao

Most of the clock springs seem to be the same style/set-up across a lot of vehicles.

That being said, factory clock springs are expensive buggers and I'm not sure I'd trust a non-factory part for that.

If you have some time and a DVOM I would go ahead and pop the airbag off and do a continuity test between the plug going into the Clock Spring on the column side and the connector for the volume controls (look up the illumination wires on the EWD.) Then just turn the wheel slowly to see where it cuts out.


Yeah I'd definitely go OEM. I might try to find a salvaged column and try that.

I wonder if it would be possible to open up the clock spring and check the tracks for each connection. It kinda fades in dimly and gets bright after a quarter turn.

Thanks for the info. I'll do a little more prodding around. I definitely don't want to screw with the airbag
 
Lmao




Yeah I'd definitely go OEM. I might try to find a salvaged column and try that.

I wonder if it would be possible to open up the clock spring and check the tracks for each connection. It kinda fades in dimly and gets bright after a quarter turn.

Thanks for the info. I'll do a little more prodding around. I definitely don't want to screw with the airbag

If you're doing testing, I'd just pull the steering wheel airbag out of the column and set it aside; it wouldn't hurt to disconnect the battery before doing so.

Since all you're doing here is looking for an open in the circuit, you can disconnect the clock spring on the column side completely and you should be good.

I don't know about opening up the clock spring; they are a pain to put back together right (I tried to tear apart an old one before) and all modern units use a plastic ribbon style coil these days rather than brushes/arms anymore.

379054d1215449395-steering-wheel-spiral-cable-clock-spring-tech-img_2564.jpg

(A picture I found via Google search, but all clock springs are main like this.)

If you do take the whole clock spring out to bench test it, make sure to note the timing marks (triangles) on the case these will denote the 12'oclock position of the Clock Spring, while the viewing window on the left will have an Orange or Yellow wheel that shows in the viewing window with the timing marks aligned to indicate that the clock spring is 100% forward.

70761E09-5CD9-43FE-B775-57FD4EC3103D_zpsntqwrn5j.jpg

This is something I discovered when I was playing with a clock spring in parts waiting for the parts counter guy to pull a new one. I don't see any mention of it in any Toyota literature and none of my co-workers ever noticed it (we all just did the usually "count the turns" method.) I've since checked it with a few different clock springs (it seems Toyota uses basically the same design for most of their vehicles.)

This is mainly a trick I figured out for people who may have turned the clock spring off the steering wheel and are having trouble finding straight ahead.
 

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If you're doing testing, I'd just pull the steering wheel airbag out of the column and set it aside; it wouldn't hurt to disconnect the battery before doing so.

Since all you're doing here is looking for an open in the circuit, you can disconnect the clock spring on the column side completely and you should be good.

I don't know about opening up the clock spring; they are a pain to put back together right (I tried to tear apart an old one before) and all modern units use a plastic ribbon style coil these days rather than brushes/arms anymore.

379054d1215449395-steering-wheel-spiral-cable-clock-spring-tech-img_2564.jpg

(A picture I found via Google search, but all clock springs are main like this.)

If you do take the whole clock spring out to bench test it, make sure to note the timing marks (triangles) on the case these will denote the 12'oclock position of the Clock Spring, while the viewing window on the left will have an Orange or Yellow wheel that shows in the viewing window with the timing marks aligned to indicate that the clock spring is 100% forward.

View attachment 127029

This is something I discovered when I was playing with a clock spring in parts waiting for the parts counter guy to pull a new one. I don't see any mention of it in any Toyota literature and none of my co-workers ever noticed it (we all just did the usually "count the turns" method.) I've since checked it with a few different clock springs (it seems Toyota uses basically the same design for most of their vehicles.)

This is mainly a trick I figured out for people who may have turned the clock spring off the steering wheel and are having trouble finding straight ahead.


Oh damn that's crazy. I hope I can figure it out. It's just weird that it only doesn't work when it's dead straight
 
it happens to the best of us, my thing is with the aswc i have hooked up to my radio, sometimes the track buttons works and sometimes it takes a while for it to work. but the volume works regardless. dont want to thread jack, but [MENTION=93434]gshadow325[/MENTION] is this a clockspring problem or another issue.
 
I have been having an issue with my steering wheel controls not lighting up for a while. Here is what's happening: when my steering wheel is mostly straight, the volume controls don't light up, but when I turn the wheel left or right, they light up fine.

Has anyone run into this issue? Have you replaced the clock spring? What part number did you use?

Thanks!

I ran into this issue with the 2011 toyota tacoma's we had in our zipcar fleet, but it was for the horn.

It was AWESOME. turn the wheel to 1030 it would honk, 12 it would not, 230 honk. for make a left turn, it would honk 3-5 times depending on how sharp the turn was! basically you became a pushy aahole! OMG some of the complaints were too funny.

Lmao

Yeah I'd definitely go OEM. I might try to find a salvaged column and try that.

I wonder if it would be possible to open up the clock spring and check the tracks for each connection. It kinda fades in dimly and gets bright after a quarter turn.

Thanks for the info. I'll do a little more prodding around. I definitely don't want to screw with the airbag

you dont have to open the clock spring, DEFINITELY do not want to do that. i changed out two tacoma clock springs for zipcar. opened one to experiment and see that it looks like inside. well i broke it open more like. i spent over a 1 hour fussing with it and decided its not going back in right and i had work to do!

you can check continuity with out opening the spring up. btw it cost about 200-225 IIRC. I'd get a new spring from dealer. Dont risk this vital part on used. its like getting new used brake pads. LOL

If you're doing testing, I'd just pull the steering wheel airbag out of the column and set it aside; it wouldn't hurt to disconnect the battery before doing so.

Since all you're doing here is looking for an open in the circuit, you can disconnect the clock spring on the column side completely and you should be good.

I don't know about opening up the clock spring; they are a pain to put back together right (I tried to tear apart an old one before) and all modern units use a plastic ribbon style coil these days rather than brushes/arms anymore.

379054d1215449395-steering-wheel-spiral-cable-clock-spring-tech-img_2564.jpg

(A picture I found via Google search, but all clock springs are main like this.)

If you do take the whole clock spring out to bench test it, make sure to note the timing marks (triangles) on the case these will denote the 12'oclock position of the Clock Spring, while the viewing window on the left will have an Orange or Yellow wheel that shows in the viewing window with the timing marks aligned to indicate that the clock spring is 100% forward.

View attachment 127029

This is something I discovered when I was playing with a clock spring in parts waiting for the parts counter guy to pull a new one. I don't see any mention of it in any Toyota literature and none of my co-workers ever noticed it (we all just did the usually "count the turns" method.) I've since checked it with a few different clock springs (it seems Toyota uses basically the same design for most of their vehicles.)

This is mainly a trick I figured out for people who may have turned the clock spring off the steering wheel and are having trouble finding straight ahead.

very good info!! i agree on opening the can of worms. dont do it. however do use a GOOD DVM no harbor freight $3 unit, even the craftsmen $20 is fine

it happens to the best of us, my thing is with the aswc i have hooked up to my radio, sometimes the track buttons works and sometimes it takes a while for it to work. but the volume works regardless. dont want to thread jack, but [MENTION=93434]gshadow325[/MENTION] is this a clockspring problem or another issue.

aswc is another ball game. the reference ground could be bad.

the aswc looks for a certain ohm impeadence on two reference wires when a OEM side of the wire goes to ground.

you can have it wire incorrectly, after checking it....congratulations you just won the grand prize....you and alex get to compare notes on writing a new How to Series "DIY your clock spring like Flava Flav"
instruction for the metra piece for reference
http://contentdocs.installernet.com/documents/vehicle/10957.pdf
i used a pac swi-rc in my 03 in case you wondering. why? thats what i had in stock at the time. I used in my 03 the following before Metra ASWC, Metra Aswc-1, PAC swi-rc, PAC COntrol Pro, and finally Idatalink Maestro SW. I suggest 05 and newer guys to use the Maestro piece, if you have the means and know to program it and use it. freaking awesome paired up with a current model Kenwood radio. little teaser about what it can do....READ and RESET CEL's from the kenwood radio. display vehicle info like speed, engine temps just ot name two. but im thread jacking. sorry!! [MENTION=5149]riceandpho[/MENTION] i dont want a PM asking about this maestro piece LOL i see one coming!
 
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Very good info Steve!

The aswc I have was professionally installed and worked fine for about 2 years prior. I don't know why it would change. All connections were soldered. That dude's work is incredible (as I'm sure yours is). The owner of the shop does all the work himself because he feels that's the only way to get it done right.

ANYWAY, I'll check continuity and such when I get my new wheel, and hopefully I win the lottery and can afford a new clock spring...
 

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