Clutch Job

P

psea17

Member
Hey guys,

Going to do my clutch for the first time. Wondering if there's a brand of flywheel you'd recommend other than OEM ($646) and Marlin Crawler ($180 incl shipping).

I noticed summitracing offers LUK. Im ordering my centerforce II from them along w/ the throw out bearing (centerforce as well). So I'd get free shipping from them and save some coin.

I tow and I wheel. Is the LUK flywheel any good or should I bite the bullet and get it from Marlin?

this is what I plan to tackle. (am i missing anything):

centerforce II clutch pressure plate and disc set (Summit; CFT505019)
centerforce throw out bearing (Summit; B902)
flywheel (mine has already been resurfaced once and has 300k on it, soooo; LuK or Marlin)
crankshaft rear main seal (90311-A0027)
input shaft seal (90311-32012)
flywheel bolts (90105-10138)
clutch pilot bearing (90363-12002)
clutch fork assembly (31204-35031)
clutch fork boot (31126-20060)
exhaust manifold gaskets (90080-43036)
transmission shifter seat (Marlin; MCTM-522)
transfer case shifter seat (Marlin; MCTM-523)

THANKS!
 
Register to hide this ad
My son's 98 4runner has LUK flywheel that previous owner put on. We only had it for 2 years but it has been fine. My understanding is that Marlin Crawler sells the LUK flywheel so might as well by it from Summit Racing.
The only other things I would include would be clutch master and slave cylinder as well as clutch flexible hose if they have not been replaced recently. Also there's a rubber cover that go over the top of transmission cover and t-case cover that can rip when u r replacing the shifter bushings. They did on me at least. Other than that, looks like u have everything covered.

Good luck

MikeM
 
psea17 said:
centerforce throw out bearing (Summit; B902)

THANKS!
Click to expand...
Go OEM on the bearings (throwout and pilot)

I can't remember if you are supercharged or anything - but I wouldn't do much 'upgrading' to the clutch unless you need the ability to hold extra torque from the engine. You'll lose drivability - been there, done that on other vehicles.

As for the pressure plate, as long as it is machined correctly, it should be fine. You could even resurface your current one (most likely) if you find a shop that is able to do it.

-Charlie
 
Hey Charlie,

Thanks, once again, for chiming in. Not supercharged. But I tow a 4000lb black series offroad trailer pretty frequently. And AZ has some major grades to climb. I planned to do the OEM pilot bearing.

Can you share a bit more on the driveability aspect? Does MPG's take a hit? Or is it just more tension in the clutch pedal? Or something else?

pc
 
TucsonMike said:
My son's 98 4runner has LUK flywheel that previous owner put on. We only had it for 2 years but it has been fine. My understanding is that Marlin Crawler sells the LUK flywheel so might as well by it from Summit Racing.
The only other things I would include would be clutch master and slave cylinder as well as clutch flexible hose if they have not been replaced recently. Also there's a rubber cover that go over the top of transmission cover and t-case cover that can rip when u r replacing the shifter bushings. They did on me at least. Other than that, looks like u have everything covered.

Good luck

MikeM
Click to expand...

Hey Mike, i went back and checked my records. The clutch master, clutch slave and clutch hose were all replaced in '18 (80k mi ago). I wish the receipt showed what mfr they used. Think this should have lasted longer imo, but then again, I'm using it to tow a heavy offroad trailer and doing more overlanding/wheeling since '19.

Do you think I should change those parts mentioned? I will say I sometimes find myself struggling to get into gear when I first start it. Need to lift the clutch pedal w/ my foot (but I'm tired of fixing that damn clutch pedal bushing that interferes w/ the pedal fully depressing. And it sometimes feels like the friction point is very close to the floor. Just don't know enough about diagnosing clutches.
 
psea17 said:
Hey Charlie,

Thanks, once again, for chiming in. Not supercharged. But I tow a 4000lb black series offroad trailer pretty frequently. And AZ has some major grades to climb. I planned to do the OEM pilot bearing.

Can you share a bit more on the driveability aspect? Does MPG's take a hit? Or is it just more tension in the clutch pedal? Or something else?

pc
Click to expand...
Drivability issues come from two places with clutches -

1. Pedal pressure. If you upgrade the pressure plate to a stronger unit (higher clamping force), you put the equivalent extra pressure on everything else in the system every time you press the pedal. Pivots, bushings, seals, etc. Also, if you have the V6 'over-center' spring assembly, it will no longer be matched to the pressure plate spring curve, amplifying the effect.

1. Clutch engagement. Clutch friction material, layout (solid/sprung, full face/pucked) has a large effect on pedal feel at the engagement point. You want the material and disk configuration to match your use scenario. Don't risk having judder, noise or difficulty avoiding stalls just to get a 'stronger' clutch when you don't need it.

Your clutch only ever sees the load (torque) that your engine can put out. If you have to slip a lot for various reasons (getting that big trailer going, creeping uphill offroad, etc.), you have a reason to move towards a more 'heat friendly' friction material. If you need to hold higher loads once in gear (remember, this is only what your engine can put out!!), stiffer pressure plates and more aggressive friction material might be worth it - just know it is a tradeoff.

Once you are in a particular gear, the clutch has no effect on the driveline as long as it doesn't slip. (no fuel economy or other differences)

-Charlie
 
phattyduck said:
Drivability issues come from two places with clutches -

"Also, if you have the V6 'over-center' spring assembly, it will no longer be matched to the pressure plate spring curve, amplifying the effect."


-Charlie
Click to expand...

Hmmm. More to think about! So if the centerforce disc set includes the matching pressure plate/springs, wouldn't that avoid the problem you raise? or am I misunderstanding?

1998 TOYOTA 4RUNNER Centerforce CFT505019 Centerforce II Clutch Kits | Summit Racing
 
Hi,

Besides my son 4runner I also own a 2000 with a 5 speed. It currently has 340k on original clutch and is my daily driver. I've replaced the clutch master and slave cylinder once at around 180k with Aisin parts. IMO based on my experience with Aisin products, 80k isn't much. The parts are not too expensive if u wanted to replace them just to have all new parts. Hose should be fine. My first one lasted over 300k before it started leaking. I also replace the fluid every 30k or so to keep it fresh. Good luck

MikeM
 
psea17 said:
Hmmm. More to think about! So if the centerforce disc set includes the matching pressure plate/springs, wouldn't that avoid the problem you raise? or am I misunderstanding?
Click to expand...
I'm talking about the spring assembly under the dash, not the pressure plate fingers. The 4-cylinder uses a simpler linear return spring, if I remember right... (Toyota has done this on many vehicles over the years)

-Charlie
 
I know I only personally trust the OEM clutches or Marlin Crawlers that are ASIN Mfg. No way would I go through all that work to have some aftermarket clutch scatter 6 months down the road. However, that's just me. :-)
 
I put a Marlin HD clutch on my 99 at around 235K miles. There was evidence it had been replaced before (I bought it with 150K miles).

No complaints about it at all. The pedal pressure is very slightly heavier, not in a bad way. And it certainly seems to clamp with a little more authority, although it's not really fair to compare it with the previous well worn clutch. But even well before the tail end of its lifespan, the normal clutch was sometimes a little soft in grabbing in tough situations, like starting off again while stopped on a very steep incline.

Although I don't see HD 3rd gen clutch kits on Marlin's site anymore.
 
JohnMc said:
I put a Marlin HD clutch on my 99 at around 235K miles. There was evidence it had been replaced before (I bought it with 150K miles).

No complaints about it at all. The pedal pressure is very slightly heavier, not in a bad way. And it certainly seems to clamp with a little more authority, although it's not really fair to compare it with the previous well worn clutch. But even well before the tail end of its lifespan, the normal clutch was sometimes a little soft in grabbing in tough situations, like starting off again while stopped on a very steep incline.

Although I don't see HD 3rd gen clutch kits on Marlin's site anymore.
Click to expand...

That's what I plan to goto when I change my clutch out. Good to hear positive feedback on them.

I know Merlin did say you can just buy LUK flywheel as that is what they do. The ASIN kits were made especially for them via ASIN though. So They are excellent kits from what I have heard.

My one buddy just bought a oem flywheel off eBay and had it resurfaced. Which would be another option if the budget is really tight.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 166 (members: 1, guests: 165)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,071
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top