Under Takeing the Clutch Job, does everything check out?

[Troybylt]

Hey guys, so my throw-out bearing took a crap on me and the clutch is on the last few thousand miles of it's life and who know what else is failing in there, anyway I'm about to rip the tranny out and do a clutch job. I'm hoping I only have to do this once as I believe the clutch currently in place is the original factory clutch and with everything I plan to replace the new one should last just as long.

I have NEVER done a clutch job before so this will be an adventure, between the guides I have posted below and a more experienced mechanic to help me I should be able to get it done this (my) weekend. (For me it will be the 26th-28th of this month.)

I'm still weary of the task and want to make sure every thing is right, below is my parts list, I would also like to know:

Am I missing anything I should really consider doing while I'm in there?
Is there a better guide I have not listed?
Is anyone interested in me trying to take pictures and make a write up?


From Marlin Crawler:

Heavy Duty Clutch Kit (1,200 lb)
SKU: MCCL-129
Application: 6cyl 1996-2004
(Includes Clutch Disk, Pressure Plate, Pilot, and Release Bearings)

Clutch Fork Boot for 1995-2004 R150
(Mine is currently very brittle and kind of crumbly)

Heavy Duty Shift Lever Ball Seats
SKU: MCTM-522
(I suspect mine is ready to be replaced as I have 210k on the clock)

Heavy Duty Shift Lever Ball Seats
SKU: MCTM-523
(Again, It's just time I figure I'll have the lever out anyway.)

Heavy Duty Shift Lever Socket
SKU: MCTM-532
(Might as well, it's probably trashed anyway.)

Heavy Duty Pressure Plate Bolt Kit
SKU: MCHT-411
(Because why not? Besides I want to supercharge at some point.)

From Toyota:

Flywheel
13405-62030
(Everybody says OEM is the best one so I coughed up for it, I don't want to resurface my old one but if it's in good shape and somebody want's it, just pay shipping.)

Clutch Fork
31204-35031
(I've been hearing strange sounds and am afraid my release bearing has spun and damaged my fork fingers, if I can I will reuse my old one.)

Transmission input shaft seal
90311-32012
(Recommended by a few places)

Rear Main Seal
90311-92010
(Highly Recommended)

Throw Out bearing Clips
31232-35030 and 31232-35040
(Only one will be used, was given two options and I could find which so I ordered both, will return unused one)

Fly Wheel Bolts with loctite
90105-10138
(I don't want to reuse old harware on something this important)

Misc:
Black FIPG from another job
Lot's of brake cleaner
Hand tools, will refine a list of exactly what I used as I use it
242 Locktite

I have marked a paint line on all rotating assemblies reachable without dis-assembly in order to properly realign everything upon reassembly.


Guides I will be useing:
5VZ Clutch Job - TTORA Forum
Toyota 4Runner Clutch Replacement on 4x4Wire.com
4x4Wire - Toyota Hydraulic Clutch Assembly Maintenance

Please list the one's use have used or link me to better ones if available.

Please let me know if I'm forgetting ANYTHING before I disable my only means of transportation.

In return for any help I'll try to make a guide for the next poor bast.

Lastly truck is a 2000 SR5 5 speed Manual.

 

[TheDurk]

That's the pretty much the part list I used last year, except some I didn't do (fork, boot, pressure plate bolts, input seal). The only one I did that is not on there is the clutch slave cylinder, but that can be done afterwards if needed. I figured mine was due. I read all those DIY's (this was my first clutch not on a tractor) but I used the FSM mostly during the job--it has all the torque values and lots of other good stuff like the rear main seal.

Just be sure you have a tranny jack and LOTS of extensions. The wobble extension kit from Harbor Freight was a big help. It is also a good time to do the front O2/AF sensor if you are due, especially if you have the Cali. Much easier during this job. Also note that, if you have a Cali', the job can be done without touching the exhaust. Nobody tells you that in the DIY's, IIRC.

Oh, I'm pretty sure the clip comes with the throw-out bearing. It did on mine (Aisin kit).

Some related DIY's, I don't have any more on the clutch itself:

Shifter lever seat and bushing replacement - YotaTech Forums

4Runners.org - Changing Your Shift Lever Bushing

Congrats on 210k on one clutch.. I had two teenagers learn to drive on this truck and it also sees a LOT of Stop-and-go traffic. The worst is the uphill stretch going to over the GWB to Yankee Stadium for games. I got 110k on two clutches. The kid just burnt it to a crisp at 19k.

 

[Scramble]

That's the pretty much the part list I used last year, except some I didn't do (fork, boot, pressure plate bolts, input seal). The only one I did that is not on there is the clutch slave cylinder, but that can be done afterwards if needed. I figured mine was due. I read all those DIY's (this was my first clutch not on a tractor) but I used the FSM mostly during the job--it has all the torque values and lots of other good stuff like the rear main seal.

Just be sure you have a tranny jack and LOTS of extensions. The wobble extension kit from Harbor Freight was a big help. It is also a good time to do the front O2/AF sensor if you are due, especially if you have the Cali. Much easier during this job. Also note that, if you have a Cali', the job can be done without touching the exhaust. Nobody tells you that in the DIY's, IIRC.

Oh, I'm pretty sure the clip comes with the throw-out bearing. It did on mine (Aisin kit).

Some related DIY's, I don't have any more on the clutch itself:

Shifter lever seat and bushing replacement - YotaTech Forums

4Runners.org - Changing Your Shift Lever Bushing

Congrats on 210k on one clutch.. I had two teenagers learn to drive on this truck and it also sees a LOT of Stop-and-go traffic. The worst is the uphill stretch going to over the GWB to Yankee Stadium for games. I got 110k on two clutches. The kid just burnt it to a crisp at 19k.

Nice, I changed my clutch @ 144,000. It still had some meat on it but I had the engine out & my mechanic said he put it in for free so I bought one from Marlin along with the flywheel.

I got 133,000 on the original brake pads.