Clutch pedal riding low, shifting difficult

[Parks]

I have a 2000 5 speed 4runner.

My clutch pedal is riding really low and it is very hard to shift. Sometimes if I am stopped I can't even put it in first or reverse. It feels like the shifter would break if I pulled it hard enough to put it in gear. It is easier once the car warms up, and with gears 2-5.

This first happened during the winter. I replaced the clutch fluid which seemed to fix the problem. The clutch pedal was riding high and shifting was super smooth. But now the problem is back and maybe even worse, just 6 months later.

I've searched for this, and it seems like it could be a few things: dirty clutch fluid (unlikely since I just replaced 6 months ago), bad master and/or slave cylinder, or maybe even a broken clutch pedal bushing (my clutch pedal squeeks, especially when its wet out). Could it be anything else?

How should I diagnose this, and then how can I fix it? The 4runner is nearly undriveable at this point.

Let me know if you need more info.

 

[habanero]

May seem like a stupid question but you don't mention it....
did you check the fluid level?

 

[Parks]

Yea, I meant to mention that the fluid level was fine and that it wasn't too dark (was brown, but not nasty brown). I also used brand new brake fluid, since that stuff can go bad.

I just replaced the clutch fluid again and its drive-able, but I think it will only be a temporary fix like last time.

If/when it gets super hard to shift again in a few months, what problem would that be?

 

[sportscarfan]

Re-bleed the clutch?

I'd also check the fluid level in the transmission. Even better, change it if it's due. I recommend Redline MT-90. I just changed mine and the shifting went from difficult into 1st & 2nd to smooth as you'd expect.
Previously I had used Amsoil synthetic (Which I DO NOT recommend - tough shifting).

 

[Parks]

Since when I replace the clutch fluid it shifts smoothly for a few months then I don't think it has much to do with the transmission fluid. That being said, my next move may be to change the transmission fluid just for good maintenance since its probably about due.

 

[wardriver]

Have you checked your adjustment rod on the clutch pedal? You'll need two wrenches, loosen the nut and run the rod out with your fingers until its tight. Re-tighten the nut and see how it shifts.

 

[DriVen]

I have the exact same truck as you and the EXACT same problem. Only seems to do it in the morning when it's cold. It's made me late to work before. Fluid levels are fine and the fluids are clean. I've noticed when it does this the clutch pedal wont let all the way back out. So i use my foot and manually pick the clutch pedal all the way back up then engage the clutch again and it works just fine.

I probably should stop being so lazy and replace the slave and see if that fixes it.

 

[DH4Runner]

Not sure if this will help but I had an 86.5 supra and the master cylinder went out. Well, long story short, the shop kept replacing it with an 86 master and if you know your supras, you'll know the 86.5 was a new model, thus, different master.

Perhaps something with the master cylinder is off?

 

[Parks]

Have you checked your adjustment rod on the clutch pedal? You'll need two wrenches, loosen the nut and run the rod out with your fingers until its tight. Re-tighten the nut and see how it shifts.

What's the adjustment rod?

 

[Parks]

I have the exact same truck as you and the EXACT same problem. Only seems to do it in the morning when it's cold. It's made me late to work before. Fluid levels are fine and the fluids are clean. I've noticed when it does this the clutch pedal wont let all the way back out. So i use my foot and manually pick the clutch pedal all the way back up then engage the clutch again and it works just fine.

I probably should stop being so lazy and replace the slave and see if that fixes it.

Definitely let me know if you find a fix!

 

[wardriver]

What's the adjustment rod?

Lay in your front driver side floor compartment. Head towards the firewall and look up to the clutch pedal. You'll see the connecting rod that goes from your pedal through the firewall to the master cyl. Take a 14mm ( I think - maybe its a 12) wrench and and adjustable wrench or a pair of slip lock pliers. Hold the larger round piece with the two flat sides. and loosen the nut on the connecting rod. Spin the lock nut down a bit and run the connecting/adjustment rod out (left if you were looking from the master cyl into the pedal) finger tight then tighten the nut back. Check pedal pressure and release point.

As your clutch disk wears down you need more "throw" or movement on the clutch fork to fully disengage the clutch disk from the flywheel. Thus an adjustment is sometimes helpful. This might do the trick. Its free so you might as well try it. Hope it helps.

-WD-

 

[Parks]

Wardriver: great info, I'll check this out.

 

[Yellowmenace]

Lay in your front driver side floor compartment. Head towards the firewall and look up to the clutch pedal. You'll see the connecting rod that goes from your pedal through the firewall to the master cyl. Take a 14mm ( I think - maybe its a 12) wrench and and adjustable wrench or a pair of slip lock pliers. Hold the larger round piece with the two flat sides. and loosen the nut on the connecting rod. Spin the lock nut down a bit and run the connecting/adjustment rod out (left if you were looking from the master cyl into the pedal) finger tight then tighten the nut back. Check pedal pressure and release point.

As your clutch disk wears down you need more "throw" or movement on the clutch fork to fully disengage the clutch disk from the flywheel. Thus an adjustment is sometimes helpful. This might do the trick. Its free so you might as well try it. Hope it helps.

-WD-

Thank You thank You! This worked for my 99 T4R. I was having issues with the clutch not coming all the way up after I depressed the clutch. Caused the Cruise to not work. The fix worked like a charm. Thanks! Save me some $ at the Mechanic. This site totally rocks!:thanks:

 

[wardriver]

Glad it worked.

 

[cordrayj1]

dang. this should b a sticky for the 5speed guys. . .

 

[foo]

maybe even a broken clutch pedal bushing (my clutch pedal squeeks, especially when its wet out).

I realize this is an old thread, but I'm scouring this forum looking for small details to add to the problem set so that nobody has to run into this problem again, without a diagnostic test and a fix ready made for them to use an improve.

To that end, I ask the OP, if he's still around, to let us know what finally solved the problem.

the clutch pedal wont let all the way back out. So i use my foot and manually pick the clutch pedal all the way back up then engage the clutch again and it works just fine

I think what happens, is that, over time, the P bushing on the double-coil clutch pedal return torsion spring wears away, and as the metal spring inexorably eats into the metal of the clutch pedal, the geometries change, along with the geometries changing of how much force the pressure plate forces back on the pedal.

Eventually, the stars line up such that the geometry is that the clutch pedal begins to stick, due to the multiple worn QPQ bushings and the worn pressure plate. There is more detail here, but after reading everyone's experience on this forum, that's my current hypothesis.

I was having issues with the clutch not coming all the way up after I depressed the clutch.

While it could be multiple things that cause a clutch pedal to not return fully, I think it's a given that the "P" bushing is a goner, so, that's the first place I'd start for diagnostics.

Once the "P" bushing is gone, the squeak occurs, and, over time (years) both the clutch pressure plate and spring-to-metal geometries change, causing the pedal to not return fully.

At least that's my theory, but that's why I'm reading every thread on this subject on this forum, to find out what people used for diagnostics.

So for anyone on this thread who can report back, with pictures perhaps, it would be useful to everyone.