Clutch replacement in the near future

Myrunr2010

New member
So last night as I was cruising in 3rd gear I went to accelerate and realized that my clutch was slipping. RPMs climbed with no increase in speed. I let down off the throttle and it accelerated just fine (at a slow rate, but normal for the throttle input). It goes into gear fine usually, occasionally reverse is a little sticky. So I've got several questions....

Any idea how long the clutch can be anticipated to last?
Is there one brand that is far superior to others?
Is there anything else that should be replaced while doing it? (Fly wheel, rear main seal?)
Will I need any special tools?

Thanks in advance!
 
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So last night as I was cruising in 3rd gear I went to accelerate and realized that my clutch was slipping. RPMs climbed with no increase in speed. I let down off the throttle and it accelerated just fine (at a slow rate, but normal for the throttle input). It goes into gear fine usually, occasionally reverse is a little sticky. So I've got several questions....

Any idea how long the clutch can be anticipated to last?
Is there one brand that is far superior to others?
Is there anything else that should be replaced while doing it? (Fly wheel, rear main seal?)
Will I need any special tools?

Thanks in advance!

I did mine last year. I first noticed it slipping slightly in April, and gentled it all the way to October, when I had time and a loaner car to get it done. Should have done it sooner but didn't have a choice; I needed the truck.
I went with OEM Aisin from Amazon (Kit CKT-040), although the Marlin Crawler heavy duty gets good reviews if you have the $$.
Flywheel needs to be resurfaced or replaced. Mine was cracked--probably from running it too long--and could not be saved, so I got a new one from NAPA for a good price. New flywheel bolts are called for by the FSM, but these aren't Torque-to-yield, if you simply clean and apply Red Loctite you are good, IMHO. Toyota likes their pre-applied thread sealant so they call any bolt that has it non-reusable.

I did starter contacts (it was definitely time!), clutch slave, and rear main seal, and of course, pilot and throw-out bearing come with the Aisin clutch kit. I also replaced both shifter seats and the shift bushing with the Marlin crawler ones--STRONGLY recommend. Shifts like new now, if not better--Aisin updated the design.


A tranny jack is essential--I used a cheapie from Harbor Freight. Plus you need a LOT of socket extensions, including wobblers.
 
I did mine last year. I first noticed it slipping slightly in April, and gentled it all the way to October, when I had time and a loaner car to get it done. Should have done it sooner but didn't have a choice; I needed the truck.

Sweet! The motorcycle is my daily driver so that gives me hope that it might could last a while. My only real concern is we are planning a road trip from south eastern VA up to NYC to see my brother in law over Christmas, worried that trip could be too much.


I went with OEM Aisin from Amazon (Kit CKT-040), although the Marlin Crawler heavy duty gets good reviews if you have the $$.

Is one expected to last much longer than the other or what makes the Marlin Crawler better/more expensive?

I did starter contacts (it was definitely time!), clutch slave, and rear main seal, and of course, pilot and throw-out bearing come with the Aisin clutch kit. I also replaced both shifter seats and the shift bushing with the Marlin crawler ones--STRONGLY recommend. Shifts like new now, if not better--Aisin updated the design.

Starter contacts?
The clutch slave is something that can be done at another time without having to drop the trans, right?

A tranny jack is essential--I used a cheapie from Harbor Freight. Plus you need a LOT of socket extensions, including wobblers.

I didn't even know they made these, I just assumed people used their regular car jacks to do it.

All said and done, approximately how much did you spend doing all that? Including tools too? If I can make it hold out until tax return time I'm thinking id be a lot better off...
 
Sweet! The motorcycle is my daily driver so that gives me hope that it might could last a while. My only real concern is we are planning a road trip from south eastern VA up to NYC to see my brother in law over Christmas, worried that trip could be too much.

As I recall driving through upstate NY there's lots of hills, combine that with the fact that it was snowing when I was there in early May and you plan on being there in December, I would DEFFINATELY get that clutch done before the trip. You never know when you're going to need to power out of a bad situation, plus the hills will make you slip regardless, especially in 4x4 due to the added resistance, if you're already slipping as bad as you said you were. Lastly I had a clutch in an MR2 that grenaded, only thing left on the input shaft was the spline ring, and it had only just started slipping. That was put in by the PO 80k prior according to him and was probably a cheepo ebay clutch. YMMV

Is one expected to last much longer than the other or what makes the Marlin Crawler better/more expensive?

I'm running the 1200lb Marling Crawler clutch with the Marlin ball seats and I'm loveing it. Will it last longer? Well all the Marlin parts and pieces (with the exception of their flywheel) are made by the OEM parts suppliers for Toyota with a few better parts incerted where improvements can be made (their page on the clutch goes into detail about why they chose what) so it will last at least as long as OEM guaranteed. That said clutch longevity really depends on how well you can drive with one. My aunt goes through a clutch something like every two years and 20k miles. Is it made of better materials and parts than most? I think so. Several people have used centerforce clutches but those were even pricier when I was shopping around.

Starter contacts?
The clutch slave is something that can be done at another time without having to drop the trans, right?

Starter contacts are little pieces of copper inside the back of the starter that provide power to your starter motor, something rotates on them and wears them out after a while. If you have an original denso starter "go bad" chances are the motor is fine you've just worn down those two little $3 dollar pieces not the $300 starter itself. Our starters are a ***** and a half to get out when everything's together but you have to pull the starter when you pull the transmission and with the trany gone it's really convenient to go ahead and knock them out.

Yes the clutch slave is externally mounted by two 10mm bolts and is very simple to do whenever you feel like it.


I didn't even know they made these, I just assumed people used their regular car jacks to do it.

You poor unfortunate soul! I just did my clutch and it would have been impossible (might be over dramatized a bit) with a floor jack.

Yes they make dedicated tranny jacks several equipment rental places around you should have one you can borrow for a small fee. Mine cost me $40. Just keep in mind that your transfercase weighs damn near as much as everything else. The pivot point on my tranny was about where the crossmember goes. You will need to remove the platic ball nut that lives there to get the jack to set flat on the tranny.

All said and done, approximately how much did you spend doing all that? Including tools too? If I can make it hold out until tax return time I'm thinking id be a lot better off...

Eh... I did all the work myself and had my Toyota employee discount so rounding up for you a bit I'd say $700
 
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So I know that occasionally on the motorcycle, when I haven't let the motor/trans come up to speed and its cold out, the clutch will slip if I really get on it. Could this be the same thing? It was cold out (~30 degrees) and I had been driving less than 2 minutes.
 
^^^^Those are all good answers from [MENTION=100832]Troybylt[/MENTION]. As far as how long it lasts, once it starts to really slip, you might have only a few days. I noticed it very early because the road to my house is a perfect clutch test track--and I have been driving manuals up it since my 1973 Audi 100LS was new. In 3rd gear, the RPM and speedo needles on my rig track at EXACTLY the same angle and my road is a long straight uphill run. If I go into 3rd at 2k rpm and floor it, on this hill a slipping clutch shows by the RPM needle going at a slightly steeper angle than the speedo. For a very long time, that was the only sign, but once it was noticeably bad in other ways, it went fast. And, as I said, I killed my flywheel in going that long.

I spent less--the price on the CKT-040 was under $200 at the time--so maybe $500 with the $100 coupon-reduced HF tranny jack. I bet you'd pay more at Toyota with an employee discount than I did buying OEM AISIN on-line. Yes, slave could be done whenever, but I had it off so why not at 160k? I am original owner and I knew it had never been done. Marlin had a good price at the time on OEM AISIN and I was buying those must-have shift seats.

It took a long time to do it--several afternoons, an hour or three at a time. It was my first clutch and each bolt seemed to present a challenge. I could do it a lot faster a second time. I'm 62 so I can't wrench straight for as long as I used to, my back won't take it. But I did it all solo and it shifts smooth as butter. Still does a year later.
 
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I'm running the 1200lb Marling Crawler clutch with the Marlin ball seats and I'm loveing it. Will it last longer? Well all the Marlin parts and pieces (with the exception of their flywheel) are made by the OEM parts suppliers for Toyota with a few better parts incerted where improvements can be made (their page on the clutch goes into detail about why they chose what) so it will last at least as long as OEM guaranteed. That said clutch longevity really depends on how well you can drive with one. My aunt goes through a clutch something like every two years and 20k miles. Is it made of better materials and parts than most? I think so. Several people have used centerforce clutches but those were even pricier when I was shopping around.

When I did a quick google search there didn't seem to be too much of a difference in price between the Aisin and the Marlin Crawler kits, there something i'm missing about it?

Starter contacts are little pieces of copper inside the back of the starter that provide power to your starter motor, something rotates on them and wears them out after a while. If you have an original denso starter "go bad" chances are the motor is fine you've just worn down those two little $3 dollar pieces not the $300 starter itself. Our starters are a ***** and a half to get out when everything's together but you have to pull the starter when you pull the transmission and with the trany gone it's really convenient to go ahead and knock them out.

Ah, makes sense. I'm guessing that's easy enough to pull the old starter apart, pull out the old contacts and putting in the new ones?

You poor unfortunate soul! I just did my clutch and it would have been impossible (might be over dramatized a bit) with a floor jack.

Mmmm, good thing black Friday is coming up, maybe I can catch a sale at harbor freight.

Eh... I did all the work myself and had my Toyota employee discount so rounding up for you a bit I'd say $700

Gasp!! Thats not good news....lol
 
sooooo, I guess when I do this, I will have to drain and replace the transmission fluid that I just recently put in?
 
sooooo, I guess when I do this, I will have to drain and replace the transmission fluid that I just recently put in?

It isn't required, but it is recommended I believe. I have to do my clutch shortly here too, and I am putting in a marlin HD.
 
It isn't required, but it is recommended I believe. I have to do my clutch shortly here too, and I am putting in a marlin HD.

Due to the possibility of contamination or just because it potentially hasn't been done in a while? I just did mine <3000 miles ago, not trying to have to spend an extra 50 bucks doing it again if i don't have to.
 
Due to the possibility of contamination or just because it potentially hasn't been done in a while? I just did mine <3000 miles ago, not trying to have to spend an extra 50 bucks doing it again if i don't have to.

I believe that in some cases doing the trans requires splitting the case to replace a seal. I can't quite remember which one it is, but I am fairly sure that it is optional unless it is leaking.
 
You can leave the gear oil in the trans if you're just pulling it to replace the clutch. After you pull the shifter out of the trans, just put some tape (duct tape would be fine) over the opening, to keep dirt and debris out of the trans. Of course if you don't keep the trans in the same orientation as it sits in the vehicle, (for example you lay it on it's side) gear oil can leak out past the tape.

Incidentally, it sounds like your motorcycle needs a new clutch too.
 
I just put in a Marlin HD and new flywheel when I dropped a remaned engine in last month. I love the feel of the clutch over the stock setup. Granted I have the 3rz but I think they should be about the same feel with the 5vz. I only have 500 miles on the son of a gun but I am loving it!

If you get the Marlin HD Kit it will come with everything you will need to swap the old with the new along with a new release bearing, alignment tool etc. Also they were a great company to deal with and their customer service top notch!
 
You shouldn't have to change the tranny fluid unless it's been 100k. I went with the lc-engineering HD clutch with the 3rz and I love it. It grabs quick though. Much less forgiving than my buddies 5vz aisin. I have about 15k on mine and it still feels brand new.
 
sooooo, I guess when I do this, I will have to drain and replace the transmission fluid that I just recently put in?

I didn't. I had Red Line MT-90 with only 20k on it. No reason to change if you don't want to. Just don't let it tip over while it's out. With a tranny jack, should not be a problem.
 
If you get the Marlin HD Kit it will come with everything you will need to swap the old with the new along with a new release bearing, alignment tool etc. Also they were a great company to deal with and their customer service top notch!

That was one of the things I was wondering. Now I need to figure out if its worth the extra ~50 bucks to go with the Marlin kit

I didn't. I had Red Line MT-90 with only 20k on it. No reason to change if you don't want to. Just don't let it tip over while it's out. With a tranny jack, should not be a problem.

Ok cool, I just put the same in not long ago and really don't want to go through the added cost of putting more in again...
 
Marlin Crawler 1200lb clutch kit.....I picked up a flywheel as well. It's a good clutch....I tow a bassboat every weekend except winter. One thing, the kit had the wrong year throw out bearing which was aN extra wait. Only use the Toyota rear main seal.

You will definitely need a tranny jack & I would not use it to take a long trip until it's fixed. Just me though.....
 
Marlin Crawler 1200lb clutch kit.....I picked up a flywheel as well. It's a good clutch....I tow a bassboat every weekend except winter. One thing, the kit had the wrong year throw out bearing which was aN extra wait. Only use the Toyota rear main seal.

You will definitely need a tranny jack & I would not use it to take a long trip until it's fixed. Just me though.....

How's the clutch weight (effort to push the pedal) with the Marlin Crawler HD clutch? My stock clutch has 112k on it and the pedal is difficult to push down, and my throwout bearing is making noise. I'm about to replace the clutch and am debating Marlin vs OEM parts. Thanks.

- Matt
 
[MENTION=48892]slomatt[/MENTION] the feel is a lot lighter, at least that is how i feel. I didn't have my truck for a month while it was down but I think it feels easier to push down and to feather.
 
[MENTION=48892]slomatt[/MENTION] the feel is a lot lighter, at least that is how i feel. I didn't have my truck for a month while it was down but I think it feels easier to push down and to feather.

Great, thanks for the information. I'm hoping replacing my clutch will significantly reduce the pedal effort. A friend of mine also has a 5spd 4runner and his clutch is much lighter than mine.

- Matt
 

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