Clutch "slipping" during acceleration

XLJIAN

New member
I have a 98' with 160,000 miles on it. Pretty sure the clutch is original. Yesterday for the first time, I noticed that as I accelerate there is a sensation of clutch slippage.

By slippage I mean that there is a sensation of the drivetrain disconnecting momentarily, the RPMs jump and then everything reengages.

I imagine this mean the clutch is done...But (Before I get into pulling the trans.....) is there any other possible source of the problem? Thanks for any suggestions
 
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Do you have issues starting off from a dead stop?

My clutch doesn't have any slippage in high gear under WOT, but from a standstill I really have to feather the clutch to prevent the whole car from shaking/bucking wildly.

I think both are symptoms of a failing clutch. Not enough initial bite, and not enough overall clamping pressure due to worn surfaces or weak clutch springs.
 
Slickmister... Thanks for the reply..... I don't have any trouble starting off from a dead stop. (Maybe a small shudder as I ease out the clutch but that's it)

Also, I tried starting off from 2nd and it stalls out... no slipping there. It only happens when Im accelerating... especially in in 3rd and 4th gears. As soon as I noticed it happening I came limping back home so I haven't tested it out too much. Tomorrow Ill do a more complete diagnostic and see what it looks like.

The clutch pedal linkage was messed with about 1 year ago so Im hoping that might have something to do with it. There is literally no play in the clutch pedal.... I saw on a YouTube video that it need 5-15 mm of play.

Im in west Africa so parts are slow to get and Im the only person I trust to do the work so Im trying to be cautious before I drop the tranny and swap the clutch
 
That's a sign you clutch is done. Time for a clutch job.

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MTBTIM... Thanks for your video.. Ive already watched and m sure Ill need to watch it a couple more times....

It takes about 2 months to receive a shipment here :frusty: so Im going about the repair slowly. At least it will give me time to do some other necessary maintenance while I wait
 
Supply chain issues ... Aisin clutch not available

Well, with the supply chain issues going on, the Aisin CK-040 clutch is not available....

Im leaning towards LUK because of a few good reviews online. I found one on CARID but it says it works with a 0.020" step flywheel....

1998 Toyota 4Runner
Standard (Manual)
3.4L
With 0.020" Step Flywheel

Im wading out of my depth.... If anyone can comment on the flywheel it would be very helpful. Or if you have a LUK clutch part number that would be awesome...

Thanks very much in advance
 
The pressure plate went out on my old taco and it had the same situation you describe. On the gas going good tach would pin momentarily then drop back to normal. It went from occasional to zero function and we ended up having to park it behind a restaurant on the side of the highway over the weekend (we were on our way hunting) then tow it home Sunday
 
In a typical clutch job you replace five items:

disk
pressure plate (aka clutch cover)
pilot bearing
throwout bearing
rear main seal

and you have the flywheel resurfaced at an automotive machine shop.

(Some would have you replace the flywheel bolts - a necessity if they're torque-to-yield bolts - and the clutch cover bolts as well. Can't hurt, though the cover bolts are generally rather lightly torqued, but they're cheap.)

Some flywheels have a step that must be maintained when the flywheel is resurfaced. The 5VZ-FE has such a flywheel, pictured below. The step is 0.020 inches in height.

If you're confused about flywheel resurfacing, here's a video.

How Do WE Resurface YOUR Engine's Flywheel? @Jim's Automotive Machine Shop, Inc. - YouTube

Some older flywheels had no step, nor did they have alignment pins. Much cheaper to resurface.

BTW, being in Africa you have ready access to items - you'll need two of them - that in my experience greatly facilitate a clutch replacement, particularly with a gearbox/transfer case unit that's long and heavy. I'm referring to the small 125cc motorcycles that dot the African landscape.

Those motorcycles have as their front axles effectively a bolt that's about a foot long with about one inch of thread. The thread and the 11" shoulder are the same diameter, no step up. Now for the reveal: the diameter is 12mm, and the thread pitch is 1.25mm. This is the same as the bolts that bind the gearbox to the engine block.

Two of these axles make an excellent "rail system" to guide the gearbox unit back to the block.

From South Africa comes an Afrikaans expression, 'n boer maak 'n plan, literally, a farmer makes a plan. Call it ingenious field engineering. (Plenty of videos, often humorous, if you search with the Afrikaans expression.)

It's a useful expression, and a useful mindset. Plenty of folks on this forum know exactly what it means.
 

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DavidCh... thanks very much. This answered a number of my questions. Ill also check into those Moto axels.....
 
The pressure plate went out on my old taco and it had the same situation you describe. On the gas going good tach would pin momentarily then drop back to normal. It went from occasional to zero function and we ended up having to park it behind a restaurant on the side of the highway over the weekend (we were on our way hunting) then tow it home Sunday
\Thanks FamilyWagon.... This is very helpful. My fear really is that Ill be driving along and then sudenly be on the side of some random bush highway with a truck that won't go into gear.

Better to fix it sooner... Thanks again
 

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