Clutch?

[krmccour]

An update on my shifting problem! I bled the slave cylinder out a couple times and managed to get enough pressure to shift gears and drive down the road, but it progressively lost pressure as I drove so I had to rev-match it to get back home. So, I ordered a new Asin slave and master cylinders since it was confirmed that it was hydraulics.

I installed the new slave and master cylinder last Friday. Bled the system until no air was coming out, and finally got it to shift somewhat normally. Drove it for two days, then went to get in it one morning, and it wouldn't go into any gear again. So somehow I lost pressure. Bled it several more times, checked for leaks, and got it shifting again. On the way down the road, lost pressure. Rev-matched it back home. This time I disconnected the fluid lines from the clutch and master, and re-seated them in case they were cross threaded. I also took the time to bench bleed the master cylinder itself. Hooked everything back up, bled it again, and no pressure. Got pi$$ed and took a break. Went back out and bled the system again, and managed to once again get enough pressure to shift and drive. Drove it to class, but when I went to drive it back home, no pressure. This is driving me nuts, as there is no fluid level loss in the reservoir, everything seems to be screwed in tight, the bleed nipple is snug, clutch adjustment is accurate and snug, and the lines are very clean.

The only two things I can think of is that there is still air in the line, somehow, or that I got a faulty part.

When you guys bleed your hydraulics, how much fluid do you typically bleed through? I probably bled the equivalent of two reservoirs worth of fluid out each time I did it. Should I bleed it more?

 

[turbo8]

I was having the same problem, drove me insane. I just ended up taking it to the shop across the street from my work. They said the clutch pedal wasn't properly adjusted, best $30 I ever spent. No problems since.

 

[Scramble]

I was having the same problem, drove me insane. I just ended up taking it to the shop across the street from my work. They said the clutch pedal wasn't properly adjusted, best $30 I ever spent. No problems since.

My 5 speed has been getting harder to shift into 1st. I'll be changing my fluids soon & adjusting the clutch pedal.

I agree with turbo, I don't mind doing things myself but sometimes after weeks & weeks of frustration & money spent on things that didn't fix the problem it's just better bringing it to the shop. My mechanic is honest & cheap so I guess I'm lucky. My time is valuable too.

 

[Chuckles89]

I had this problem and I fixed it by adjusting the clutch pedal. The little black thing on the end of the rod that goes into the master cylinder was loose, so I did it out a few turns and tightened up the nut. It goes into gear great now. Hopefully it is just this simple issue.

 

[TheDurk]

I had this problem and I fixed it by adjusting the clutch pedal. The little black thing on the end of the rod that goes into the master cylinder was loose, so I did it out a few turns and tightened up the nut. It goes into gear great now. Hopefully it is just this simple issue.

I just posted the detail of how to do that in another clutch thread (from my paper '99 4Runner FSM. There are a few adjustments:

1. CHECK THAT PEDAL HEIGHT IS CORRECT
Pedal Height above Floor Panel: 175 - 185mm
Pedal Height above Asphalt sheet: 172 - 182mm

2. IF NECESSARY, ADJUST PEDAL HEIGHT
Loosen the lock nut and turn the stopper bolt until the height is correct. Tighten the locknut.

3. CHECK THAT PEDAL FREEPLAY AND PUSH ROD FREEPLAY ARE CORRECT

Push in on the pedal until the beginning of clutch resistance is felt.

Pedal freeplay: 5.0 - 15.0mm

Gently push on the pedal until the resistance begins to increase a little.

Push rod freeplay: 1.0 - 5.0mm

4. IF NECESSARY, ADJUST PEDAL FREEPLAY AND PUSHROD FREEPLAY.

a) Loosen the lock nut and turn the pushrod until freeplay and the pushrod play are correct.
b) Tighten the locknut.
c) After adjusting the pedal freeplay, check the pedal height.
d) Connect the air duct and install the lower finish panel.

5. CHECK CLUTCH RELEASE POINT

a) Pull parking brake and install wheel stopper.
b)Start engine and idle the engine
c)Without depressing the clutch pedal, slowly shift the shift lever until the gears contact.
d)Gradually depress the clutch pedal and measure the stroke distance from the point the gear noise stops (releae point) up to the full stroke end position.
Standard distance: 25mm (0.98in) or more (From pedal stroke end position to release point)
If the distance is not as specified, perform the following operation.
-Check pedal height
-Check push rod play and pedal freeplay
-Bleed the clutch line
-Check the clutch cover and disc.

 

[krmccour]

Thanks for all the assistance. I went back out today and, what do you know, it would shift again. So I adjusted the clutch pedal anyway, allowed it to have a little free play before meeting resistance. The master cylinder piston adjustment is almost all the way out, meaning it can't be screwed out much more. Drove it around a bit, cut it off. Came back out, and no pressure. Ugh...

I can get enough pressure for 1-2 shifts if I turn the 4runner off, pump the clutch a bunch, and turn it back on. After one or two shifts it loses pressure again. Could air in the lines be causing this? Should the master cylinder piston be shorter? In my mind, if the piston is shorter, you get less pressure when you push the clutch, so the longer the better? I'm not losing any fluid.

 

[nevada]

The only two things I can think of is that there is still air in the line, somehow, or that I got a faulty part.

When you guys bleed your hydraulics, how much fluid do you typically bleed through? I probably bled the equivalent of two reservoirs worth of fluid out each time I did it. Should I bleed it more?

this would be my guess.
likely the MC is bad, but to be safe, I would swap them both again.