Code 11 on 88 3.0V6

[islanderoffroad]

Used a paperclip to pull my codes today, neat little trick.

My T4R is reading code 11, which per 4crawler is:

LOSS OF POWER SUPPLY TO ECU

--IGNITION SWITCH/CIRCUIT

--MAIN RELAY/CIRCUIT

--ECU

Obviously I'm hoping I don't need to replace the ECU (though a quick ebay check reveals them to be pretty affordable), but where should I start with this? Where is the ignition switch, main relay, and ecu? Could this be a ground issue? Anyone had this code before? I did a search here and on google and unfortunately did not find very much info on this code.

Thanks!

 

[Bad_Vision]

i had the same issue in my 87 22re
first just clear the code by disconnection the battery if it comes back then continue with testing.
i pulled my steering cover off and noticed a fine gold like dust my key switch had given out and it caused the ecu to get a mixed on signal at random that made the idiot light show up.
no big deal real cheap and easy to test and fix.
if your ignition switch looks good then then you'll need to test the relay. and if that looks good youll be sitting for 3 days with a ohm meter to test the ecu.....suck


RockAuto Auto Parts 30$-80$ depending on model ecu brand new is 160$

 

[islanderoffroad]

Was code 11 for 87 the same as 88? My owners manual says code 11 is on the v6 only.

I do know my key switch is kinda screwed up. I can pull the key out while the truck is running. I also keep pulling it out without having to hit the release button.

Could that be causing the problem?

 

[Bad_Vision]

well yes and no
your lock cylinder is what the key goes into but the ignition switch is what the lock cylinder goes into they are 2 separate parts. with you ripping the key out it may have sent some metal particulates into the switch and caused a short in the ignition switch.

if you take the steering wheel cover off youll see it on the left side just under the turn switch it has about 8 wires going to it and it has 2 phillips head screws holding it on go ahead and take it off and test each wire there should be one hot at all times and then when you turn the rotating plastic switch then 3 of them should turn hot also.

 

[islanderoffroad]

Ok, I'll check it out, thanks!

 

[islanderoffroad]

http://toyotadiesel.com/photopost/data/518/tests_with_codes_v6.pdf

A great resource I just found for troubleshooting this code... gonna check it out tomorrow when I get some daylight

 

[islanderoffroad]

Had to go back up to the PO's house yesterday to get one more form signed for registering the 4Runner.

Asked him about the light really quickly. He said the CEL was on the entire time he owned the truck. He did have the engine rebuilt back in 09 and he said even after the rebuild it was still on (I would have never accepted it back from the mechanic with the light still on).

So I'm gonna try clearing it, but if that doesn't work, my current thought is maybe when the engine got put back in the grounds were not cleaned up or secured all the way.

Hoping this stays cheap and easy.

 

[islanderoffroad]

Pulled the column cover off and the ignition switch looked ok, no gold dust.

Got the truck registered so I've been driving it a bit to discover other symptoms... I can't help feel like these are all related.

Cold start: Hard to start, takes a while to crank. When it does fire the rpms are low, maybe 300? If I give it gas, it will sputter, then die. After a couple starting attempts the RPMs will jump to 1000-1500 for a few min, then settle to around 700, then the truck will run great.

On the way home from work today (about 40 min of operation) the truck started bucking/surging on the highway. Felt almost like a lockup torque converter locking and unlocking while I was driving... but I have a stick. I was going about 75 per the speedo (maybe 65 tops actually based on how the traffic was moving around me). Did it 4-5 times. Then I got off the freeway and she stalled at a light. Bit hard to start back up, but did on the 3rd try. When I got her home I popped the hood, could smell a bit of raw fuel under there.

Any thoughts? Could this all be the ignition switch?

 

[islanderoffroad]

Code 11 cleared, ignition switch and ecu relay fixed it. Still throwong a code but now it's a 22.

 

[Bad_Vision]

a code 22 is coolant sensors this will show you location and info
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ee9SC0K0nK8

 

[islanderoffroad]

Replaced the coolant temp sensor.

Started the truck, it started better but still not great. And now I have the code 22 plus a code 51 (TPS)? A/C wasn't on, I have a MT so its not transmission related.

So I guess the next step is cleaning the TPS?

When I start it it cranks fine, but after it fires, idles very low at first then picks up, I can smell it running rich till it gets warm.

 

[Bad_Vision]

cold start injector!!!!!
its a good idea to clean this or just replace it.
sounds like a truck that hasnt run in a while so you should put a can of SEAFOAM in the gas that stuff is a miracle cure.

all your automotive needs CHEAP RockAuto Auto Parts

 

[islanderoffroad]

Pulled codes again while warm, the 51 is gone now.


22mm on the cold start injector right? I'll try cleaning it but with how rich the trucks running when cold I think it works

 

[Bad_Vision]

it may be spraying too much!
but if the fuel mixture is wrong its controlled by the MAF and o2 sensor check them.
now that your getting a bunch of codes it would be a great idea to reset the computer disconnect the battery ground then reconnect it and run it then check for codes this will give you the best idea of the real problem.

 

[islanderoffroad]

Oh, I've cleared it a couple times already to no avail.

 

[islanderoffroad]

Cold start injector is out of spec, 6ohms, whereas the FSM says it should be reading 2-4ohms. But...

I was checking a few other things. The battery voltage is reading way too high... in the neighborhood of 30 on the multimeter. I also started troubleshooting why the code 22 was still showing using one of the FSM supplements for the early 3.0 and was not getting voltage readings on anything on the ECM.. and when I did get a reading it was typically very low, 8volts tops.

Started tracing the E1 (body ground) wire, removed some electrical tape and found this:

I'm guessing that wiring is not supposed to look like that. And that I'm probably going to need a new wiring harness if I want this thing to run right.

Where does the E1 wire run to, the diagnostic port? I was expecting it to ground off somewhere in the cab under the dash but it looks like it goes into the engine bay. Haven't disassembled under the hood yet, washed up to come share what I found before moving any further.

 

[Bad_Vision]

looks like just a grounding strap.
no big deal just make sure they dont have any power to them and that the are grounding to the body.

 

[Bad_Vision]

the harness grounds in the engine bay next to the engine control box( the black one with fuses and the diagnostic port) it has a ground to the body at that point that connects the engine and the battery and the control box.

 

[islanderoffroad]

I give up. Replaced the TPS, spent a long time getting it in spec, now the truck's throwing a 41 in addition to the 22.

Taking it to someone for an estimate then determining if I'm gonna keep it.

 

[islanderoffroad]

Update:

New fuel pump, filter, and pump bracket installed, truck was running again. Still had the code 22.

Bought a new pigtail for the CTS and installed it... still showing the CEL. Took a good hard look at the plugs on the back of the motor and had an epiphany. The PO said that the CEL had been on ever since he got the truck back from the engine rebuild. The plugs for the CTS and the sensor that activates the CSI were swapped. I swapped them... and no more CEL! Truck also started up much better than it did before.