Cold Start Temp Switch

mrsboone

New member
1994 t4r, 3.slow

Cold Start Temp Switch, anyone know where I can get a new one? Toyota's #89462 FSM says its Start Injector Time Switch.

Dealer has them for $201. grrrr, my 4runner won't run properly without one, but I can't find one at any of the other parts places.
 
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Probably has coolant scaling in it try cleaning the probe up and test it with a multimeter they are not common to go out because they are so simple.
 
Re: Cold start time switch

Hi Mrs. Boone,

I damaged mine while pulling and replacing the engine. While investigating a replacement, I found Rock Auto has them for around $140. Also, if you want to go with a used one, Yota Yard quoted $45 a couple of weeks ago.

Regards,
SanDiego91T4R
 
I second the cleaning of the sensor, these things are not known to go bad. IIRC, the tip is brass and can get corroded, especially if someone didn't use antifreeze and just ran water in the cooling system. A little soaking in a cup of CLR should clean it right up. If not, some light sandpaper (600+ grit) to get the crap off the tip should work just fine.

Also clean the wire connector with electrical contact cleaner (or in a pinch, brake clean, but be VERY careful it doesn't melt the plastic!) and a toothbrush, many times its just a bad connection to the sensor that will throw a code or screw with the numbers in the ecu. Also check the wire side of the connector too, you'll wanna clean that up also.
 
I second the cleaning of the sensor, these things are not known to go bad. IIRC, the tip is brass and can get corroded, especially if someone didn't use antifreeze and just ran water in the cooling system. A little soaking in a cup of CLR should clean it right up. If not, some light sandpaper (600+ grit) to get the crap off the tip should work just fine.

Also clean the wire connector with electrical contact cleaner (or in a pinch, brake clean, but be VERY careful it doesn't melt the plastic!) and a toothbrush, many times its just a bad connection to the sensor that will throw a code or screw with the numbers in the ecu. Also check the wire side of the connector too, you'll wanna clean that up also.
Cleaned it, put it back in, didn't make any difference. now the electrical part is coming loose, so have to replace now.
 
That's a bummer!

Have you done the test on it? I'd still test it before buying a new one. Should be in the TSRM for what resistance is on your particular switch. I also think the two wires going into the switch should be reading 12V when you start the vehicle. Might wanna check that too while you're at it.

There's a used one on Ebay right now, ~$75.00, but I'd try Yota Yard first like SanDiego suggested.

Alternatively, you could bypass it completely if you don't mind playing with a pushbutton switch whenever you start the vehicle! Hold switch down to activate the cold start injector, then as soon as it starts idling rough, let go to turn off the cold start injector, but this would be pretty "hooptie"!!! Still, if cost is an issue for now, doing this temporarily would be okay.:laugh:
 
Would you be so kind as to post a picture of the location on the motor where the switch is located and if possible a picture of the switch removed? I think I have a similar problem. If you know the thread specs I may have a lower cost solution to suggest. There may be a cross over from another vehicle that would fit.
 
Would you be so kind as to post a picture of the location on the motor where the switch is located and if possible a picture of the switch removed? I think I have a similar problem. If you know the thread specs I may have a lower cost solution to suggest. There may be a cross over from another vehicle that would fit.

I'll have hubby take a pic for you. That's what we were thinking that of all of the vehicles out there, there ought to be a way to substitute.... Thanks.
 
That's a bummer!

Have you done the test on it? I'd still test it before buying a new one. Should be in the TSRM for what resistance is on your particular switch. I also think the two wires going into the switch should be reading 12V when you start the vehicle. Might wanna check that too while you're at it.

There's a used one on Ebay right now, ~$75.00, but I'd try Yota Yard first like SanDiego suggested.

Alternatively, you could bypass it completely if you don't mind playing with a pushbutton switch whenever you start the vehicle! Hold switch down to activate the cold start injector, then as soon as it starts idling rough, let go to turn off the cold start injector, but this would be pretty "hooptie"!!! Still, if cost is an issue for now, doing this temporarily would be okay.:laugh:
I LIKE Yota Yard. What a place, never knew it existed.
 
I was looking at my 1989 BMW e30 325is and there is a two wire temp switch that does the same thing. Just need to verify the specs and thread pitch.
These are about $25. I'm thinking other similar vintage Toyotas populate the junk yards and may be an even closer cross match. I bought one for $6.50 at the LKQ in our area.
 
Re: Cold start time switch

Hi,

I just wanted to chime in with some more info that I uncovered while investigating for my switch:

The same Toyota P/N is also used on:
4Runner 1986 - 1993
Celica 1988 - 1993
Land Cruiser 1986 - 1992
Pickup 1986 - 1993

This info is from Rock Auto.

Maybe the BMW (or other Mfr) switch could also be a replacement?

Regards,
SanDiego91T4R
 

Nice write-up. Pics look like it's for a 22R-E?
Please be careful with what schematic and test method to use. Control of CSI varies between models - yes, even 1988 22R-E's are different from 1986-1987. In 1986-87, ONLY the CSI timer switch controls the CSI. In the 1988, the ECU also takes part in controlling the CSI.

Also a good idea to monitor your fuel pressure with a pressure gage piggybacked on the CSI as in LCE write-up. This allows you to see actual fuel pressure, and how fuel pressure regulator responds to vacuum input from VSV.
Parts needed for the fuel pressure gage retrofit on my post here
 
Autometer and others have adapters for $10-$15 that could allow you to install a number of different sensors/switches. Autozone shows them on their website but doesn't tell you the ID OD thread specs. Hopefully someone has the temp range info to post for us to find in a search later.
 
Would you be so kind as to post a picture of the location on the motor where the switch is located and if possible a picture of the switch removed? I think I have a similar problem. If you know the thread specs I may have a lower cost solution to suggest. There may be a cross over from another vehicle that would fit.

As you can see from this pic, the sensor is not visible by camera (at least not for me), hubby put tool showing where its located.
 

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would you be so kind as to post a picture of the location on the motor where the switch is located and if possible a picture of the switch removed? I think i have a similar problem. If you know the thread specs i may have a lower cost solution to suggest. There may be a cross over from another vehicle that would fit.
 

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Proper Grounding of CSI Timer Switch Brass Body VERY CRITICAL

Hi guys,

Before throwing away your money and that CSI Timer Switch, please test it per FSM (I have a post on that on my thread, too), and thoroughly clean the threads on both the brass housing of CSITS and manifold where it screws into.
Can't stress this enough:
Proper Grounding of CSI Timer Switch Brass Body VERY CRITICAL


I cleaned all my temp sensors and the threads on the coolant bypass/intake manifold. As soon as I put everything back together and topped off the coolant, truck went Ta-Da-VROOM!

Details Follow:
After more research I realized that:
1) The CSI timer switch (brown connector) gets its ground from contact of its brass body with the manifold metal. Meaning, the threads on the manifold metal and the CSITW should be bare shiny metal.
2) The ECU temp sender (green connector) must affect starting and cold idle, and finally
3) The BVSV (Bi-metallic/temp-sensitive Vacuum Switching Valve) located on the lower manifold above the CSI Timer Switch and the ECU temp sender, probably also affects cold start and idle. (There has been minimal or no attention to this on discussions about cold-starting.)

So when I flushed my cooling system (and replaced my thermostat with the 2-stage one), I cleaned all the above sensors, and threads where they screw into.

Thirty years worth of scale on BVSV:
BVSV_Scaled_zpsgcpkkfya.jpg


Scaled CSITS and ECU temp-sender (CSITS was cleaned earlier to help fix hard starts but I overlooked the threads on the manifold.):
20161023_164921_1477286698225_zpsv7uvbtah.jpg


Scaled temp gage sender:
20161024_120813_zpsunywyuwz.jpg


Sensors Cleaned:
Temp_Sensors_Clean_Label_zpsojmbl2pg.jpg


Scaled thread on coolant bypass manifold for CSI timer switch :
CSI_Manifold_Thread_zpsmqj26gih.jpg

THIS IS A MUCH-IGNORED DETAIL THAT IS CRITICAL TO PROPERLY GROUNDING THE CSITS.

Here's why:
1986_4Runner_Schem_CSI_Cold_zpscl8prkyj.jpg



AND... I did all these in the rain - LOL!
Wrenching_In_Rain_02_zpsys6gspo8.jpg~original
 
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