Newly registered to the forum, but have lurked for a while. I cant seem to find someone having a similar issue or a way to determine whats wrong. Basically, I bought it with 212k and it drove just right. I took it on some moderate/light offroading stock a few times. I first noticed an issue driving down I 70 one day when it felt like there was something loose up front, and the truck would start tracking left and right despite holding the wheel still. After having gone offroading two more times, the steering wheel needs to be held about 20 degrees clockwise in order to drive straight. It mostly pulls to the right but sometimes to the left. I'm not sure what's causing this. I replaced the LBJs with oem since they looked worn, and it was probably time after 200k. This didn't fix the issue. It seems like the toe is changing since the directing the vehicle pulls changes as well as the position of the wheel. It's really strange. I was thinking about replacing both inner and outer tie rods but I am not sure that's needed. When the truck is jacked up, there doesn't seem to be any play in them. Any ideas?
Constantly changing alignment
- Thread starter joshd_bh
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St Runner
Member
Lower control arm bushings. If they are totally shot the control arm will move every time you hit a bump or hit the brakes hard and the effects can be all over the place. Its hard to diagnose with the weight of the vehicle and the tension of the spring. If you don't have someone who is good look at it, pull the wheel ,take off the 4 bolts for the lower ball joint, loosen the bolts for the control arm (without changing the alignment) and remove the lower spring bolt. Without any tension it will be obvious if there is a problem with the bushings
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Blazerpounds
New member
im having the exact same problem, and it does, after hours and several thousand dollars of replaced parts, seem to be lower control arm bushings. i actually just ordered them 12 minutes ago, and should be here next week. hopefully the weathers gonna hold out and i can get them rocking before the snow decides to come.
the entire front end is new, including lower control arms, that came with bushings from autozone. however, the general consensus is the lca bushings. best of luck.
the entire front end is new, including lower control arms, that came with bushings from autozone. however, the general consensus is the lca bushings. best of luck.
Paperjam
New member
Steering rack bushings go bad all the time, The rack can slide back and forth potentially causing the issue. Its worse if you have oil leaking on the bushings. Poly ones are like $40, and easy to install.
To check, have someone turn the wheel left and right while sitting on a flat surface, engine running, out of gear and parking brake on (obvs!) watch to see if there is any side to side play.
also check the inner and outer tie rods for play while doing this.
Other possibilities are leaking/sagging struts or ball joints, they may or may not clunk over bumps.
do you has lift? caster goes to crap and causes wishy washy driving too, not likely the sole cause but could be an aggravating factor.
good luck.
To check, have someone turn the wheel left and right while sitting on a flat surface, engine running, out of gear and parking brake on (obvs!) watch to see if there is any side to side play.
also check the inner and outer tie rods for play while doing this.
Other possibilities are leaking/sagging struts or ball joints, they may or may not clunk over bumps.
do you has lift? caster goes to crap and causes wishy washy driving too, not likely the sole cause but could be an aggravating factor.
good luck.
Alright I've done some reading on this and the LCA bushings sounds to be the culprit. I'll check the LCAs before ordering the parts.
Do you have a link to the bushings purchased? I'm trying to decide between oem, poly, and other aftermarket.
Thanks a lot for the advice. I've already ordered the poly steering rack bushings as they looked shredded a while ago. Also, the rear main seal is leaking so they are covered in oil too. I'll replace that first and see if anything changes.
IBallEngineer
New member
Don't forget to look at the rear control arms. If the rear axles is moving, you'll feel it up front!
cbr900boy
New member
I've got these for my LCAs.
W53377A - Front Lower Control Arm Bushings - Inner - Whiteline Suspension Parts
How would I check for movement? Jack it up and shake it? lol
Awesome. Through my recent research, this looks to be exactly what I need.
IBallEngineer
New member
Well there are a number of ways, but if it were me in my driveway this is what I would do.
Jack it up and support from the frame so the suspension is not loaded. Now use as long a pry bar as you can, try to move the arms in all directions at the pivot points to see if anything is worn or loose. You could also use a jack to cycle the suspension.
Paperjam
New member
How do you like these? I tore one doing my last alignment due so a seized adjuster bolt.
TorqueOfTheDevil
Member
I had Poly front bushes but found my alignment got bashed out more often,
I'm now reverting back to brand new OEM.
It's also worth making sure that the alignment shop torque them up properly... so far the last two place that did mine didn't, even though I specifically requested it, as they "know best"
I'm now reverting back to brand new OEM.
It's also worth making sure that the alignment shop torque them up properly... so far the last two place that did mine didn't, even though I specifically requested it, as they "know best"
cbr900boy
New member
They are solid. I've gone wheeling a few time without any issues. I mainly got these because poly is pretty strong and they cost much less than OEM. I normally go OEM but decided to give these a try. Just stay away from aftermarket LCAs because the rubber on those have a lot of play, even when new.
JayRolla
New member
NTM the poly bushings allow free movement of the control arm. Stock bushings are rubber, bind up and dont allow full LCA travel.