"Consumer grade" drawer systems?

[btcsxj]

I see your point, but keep in mind he wasn't offering a product - he was proposing a concept that is just at the theoretical stage at this point.

I can't imagine anyone would be willing to spend $600-$800 or whatever it comes to without actual real product being made and shown up front, and tested thoroughly.

The input that is occurring in the thread is all really useful and constructive, IMO.

Yeah... Just to be clear, I am making this drawer system for MYSELF but being the nerd that I am, I am going to fully develop this idea including CAD models, prints, etc.

The reason I posted this was as a response to the OP. I think once I am done with my own drawer system, I might be able to essentially Middle-Man these sheet metal parts for others here for a small profit. Essentially just to make it worth my time. I am not trying to start a business or compete with anyone making these drawers. I'm simply in the same boat as all the others who end up making their own out of plywood because they can't afford a full system... it's only the engineer in me that wants to make this from sheetmetal.

All this being said, I really appreciate the feedback of everyone here and especially of someone like Trekboxx and I intend to create my own thread once this is done.

UPDATE: I took the advice of Trekboxx and modified my design to provide support to the plywood top. Can't have that sagging with gear on top. I also deleted the locks. I just don't see the point.

This re-design requires me to do a small amount of TIG welding, which isn't a big deal, but I will probably make the base frame from steel and the drawer from Aluminum now.

 

[btcsxj]

Right now the parts list stands at ~$200

 

[Alaska_4Runner]

5th GEN 3rd Row Option

@TrexboxX came across this thread as an option to potentially build a drawer system for my 5th GEN w/3rd Row.

I saw on Instagram that you're putting something into development?
Additionally, I wanted to reach out and ask what materials you use for your builds?

Wood
Hardware
Slides
Coatings

Short of removing the 3rd row, I'm interested in seeing what you develop if either a slide or plate/storage system.

^^True. I don't have a dog in this fight- you have stated what you are looking for, and it's not what I offer. Having said that, you can do a good DIY, even with little prior skills, but quality materials add up fast. Slides- $350, wood- $150, latches and hardware- $20-$200, coatings- zero to $800, etc. As an example the first system I made for myself years ago ran $1200 in materials, and literally a month of my own labor. Granted, that included wiring, etc., but your time is still worth something. I could have worked OT all month, paid $5-6k for a super custom system, and still be ahead with none of the headaches.

Bringing it to a local shop can also add up very fast as it is a custom job. I think your best bet is to find a mid-range quality used system and go from there.

If you go local cabinet shop you can save a lot by using UHMW runners instead of slides. There are definitely drawbacks (rattles, not full extension), but it's light and cheap. It's all about what you want and will be happy with in the long term.

If you need any help sourcing hardware, or have any design Q's, I love to help folks with their builds if I can. Good luck!

 

[TrekboxX]

@TrexboxX came across this thread as an option to potentially build a drawer system for my 5th GEN w/3rd Row.

I saw on Instagram that you're putting something into development?
Additionally, I wanted to reach out and ask what materials you use for your builds?

Wood
Hardware
Slides
Coatings

Short of removing the 3rd row, I'm interested in seeing what you develop if either a slide or plate/storage system.

Yes, one of the (many) projects I'm working on is a full extension cargo slide that will sit right on top of the seats. Fairly easy to remove so you can use the 3rd row or just install it for trips. Early stages, but way bigger/better than the factory slide.

 

[CarolinaBlue]

Any updates?

Yeah... Just to be clear, I am making this drawer system for MYS1ELF but being the nerd that I am, I am going to fully develop this idea including CAD models, prints, etc.

The reason I posted this was as a response to the OP. I think once I am done with my own drawer system, I might be able to essentially Middle-Man these sheet metal parts for others here for a small profit. Essentially just to make it worth my time. I am not trying to start a business or compete with anyone making these drawers. I'm simply in the same boat as all the others who end up making their own out of plywood because they can't afford a full system... it's only the engineer in me that wants to make this from sheetmetal.

All this being said, I really appreciate the feedback of everyone here and especially of someone like Trekboxx and I intend to create my own thread once this is done.

UPDATE: I took the advice of Trekboxx and modified my design to provide support to the plywood top. Can't have that sagging with gear on top. I also deleted the locks. I just don't see the point.

This re-design requires me to do a small amount of TIG welding, which isn't a big deal, but I will probably make the base frame from steel and the drawer from Aluminum now.

 

[toyotabuilds]

I have actually been working on a concept and was considering offering it for sale to people on this forum. Fact of the matter is, I am going to generate all of the CAD and detailed drawings to make my own anyways... this isn't going to be built "Free-Hand." So if I can turn a small $50 or so profit for the time it takes to order these from my shop, pack and ship... then it will give a lot of people a more economical option to building their own simple drawer setup. Of course it is nowhere near as feature laden as some of the other options out there, but I would argue that a simple drawer is more useful, and it should be able to be built for a 1/3 of the cost.

Anyhow,

The idea would be that I would produce the sheetmetal components and sell those along with a parts list for the slides, latches and hardware. In addition, I would provide large paper templates, printed on a plotter, for the pieces of plywood that would need to be cut. Someone could buy my kit, which ships in a small and relatively light weight package, and assemble it with the parts in my list and cut out the drawer bottom and top using a jig saw and some plywood from their local hardware store.

I would use 3/16" Aluminum Plate, PEM style insert nuts, 500lb capacity drawer slides and locking paddle latches. The drawer top would be cut to precisely fit the contour of the rear cargo area.

Still working on how I will secure it to the cargo area, my thoughts right now are provide holes for attaching D-rings that can be used to strap it down to the existing tie downs. I think asking people to pull up their trim and carpet and bolt it to the floor will be going too far for some.

What do ya'll think?

I like the idea. I’m curious though what you used for a catch for the paddle latch? From what I’ve seen online there appears to be two different approaches for this that most people use: (1.) using a 90-degree mending brace that hangs down from the top and catches the paddle latch, and (2.) cutting a notch into the top board where the paddle latch can live when it's not engaged (similar to the way a door lock fits into a door jam). Which approach did you take? Can you share some photos? Thanks.

 

[toyotabuilds]

I decided to go with the second approach - cutting a notch into the top board where the paddle latch can live when the drawer is shut. For this, I bought latch striker plates [1]. However, when I used Southco Paddle Latch that others have used, it didn't align - the area where the latch lives is too far to the front of the striker plate so that the curved area of the striker plate would interfere with my top board and I'd have to account for the curved area by having a gap in between the top board and the drawer front [2]. To solve for this, I had a piece of metal welded to the front of where the striker plate's hole is so that it would fit better [3][4][5].

[1] striker plate

[2] pre-weld

[3] before/after weld

[4] after weld

[5] after weld

I'll add another post showing the final result.

I'm surprised SouthCo doesn't manufacturer a strike plate that fits the latch (at least to my knowledge..). Curious what other folks have used.