Coolant Change for V6 2003

[ToolmanJohn]

I did a lot of searching and didn't find what I needed. A few posts relating to draining the coolant only say to open the radiator draincock and drain. This method leaves a lot of coolant in the engine block and heater core.

I ended up going oline and getting a one day subscription to the techinfo.toyota site.

Apparently, there are THREE places that must be opened for complete draining. The radiator drain valve (driver side), one on the cylinder head under the exhaust manifold near the passenger side, and one on the cylinder head under the exhast manifold in front on the drivers side.

When bleeding the system (to remove air), they state to "open the heater water valve". I think they mean to have the heater ON , but not entirely sure. There is no other mentionof the heater water valve in the manual (did a search) and no diagram either.

Has anyone done a coolant change on their truck?

 

[ToolmanJohn]

Did the job Sunday

Well it took a while this first time but next time will only take an hour.

I had to remove the front wheels (yes, you read that right) to reach the drain valves on each cylinder head. I just could not reach under the exhaust amnifold from the top of the engine bay to get to them.

But once I had some vinyl hose, it was a matter of opening a 10mm bolt and about half a gallon of coolant comes out of each head. I then filled with a clear, ran the engine till hot, drained again, then did two filll and flushes with clean water.

It finally came out very clear. I ended up putting in Dex-Cool, as it worked great in my last car and gave no problems. It is phosphate free, blah, balh, all that good stuff that Toyota claims theirs is, and it is also based on ethyl glycol formula, same as Toyota.

Cost me $20 for two gallons, only used 6.5-7 quarts, then finished with water.
A lot of time spent, but I figure if I had paid the dealership $90 plus tax to do it, I would also lose about 2-3 hours from work to have them do it.

After final filling, I drove around in 2nd and third gear to keep the engine between 2000-2500 rom as the manual states. I think that's for air to get pushed into the radiator. When I checked this morning I had to add some coolant to the radiator (about 1/2 quart, maybe). I checked at work again during break, it was just about to the top. I think I'm all set for 5 years.

 

[jharris2]

Re: Did the job Sunday

Well it took a while this first time but next time will only take an hour.

I had to remove the front wheels (yes, you read that right) to reach the drain valves on each cylinder head. I just could not reach under the exhaust amnifold from the top of the engine bay to get to them.

But once I had some vinyl hose, it was a matter of opening a 10mm bolt and about half a gallon of coolant comes out of each head. I then filled with a clear, ran the engine till hot, drained again, then did two filll and flushes with clean water.

It finally came out very clear. I ended up putting in Dex-Cool, as it worked great in my last car and gave no problems. It is phosphate free, blah, balh, all that good stuff that Toyota claims theirs is, and it is also based on ethyl glycol formula, same as Toyota.

Cost me $20 for two gallons, only used 6.5-7 quarts, then finished with water.
A lot of time spent, but I figure if I had paid the dealership $90 plus tax to do it, I would also lose about 2-3 hours from work to have them do it.

After final filling, I drove around in 2nd and third gear to keep the engine between 2000-2500 rom as the manual states. I think that's for air to get pushed into the radiator. When I checked this morning I had to add some coolant to the radiator (about 1/2 quart, maybe). I checked at work again during break, it was just about to the top. I think I'm all set for 5 years.

Odd that you had to take off the wheels -- haven't heard anything like that since I had to remove the front tire on a Cutlass Ciera to get to the oil filter!

Good write up and thanks for the PDF.

 

[Larry]

Thanks for the info, I'm going to be flushing the system in a couple of weeks.

 

[coldbivy]

Why did you decide to change it? You definitely didn't need to at 3 years.

I couldn't find any recommended change interval in the 05 manual. I did find a claim on the web that the new super long life coolant used by Toyota is good for 10 years, but I'm not sure how reliable that info is.

 

[ToolmanJohn]

2003 V6

Why did you decide to change it? You definitely didn't need to at 3 years.

I couldn't find any recommended change interval in the 05 manual. I did find a claim on the web that the new super long life coolant used by Toyota is good for 10 years, but I'm not sure how reliable that info is.

It's in the 30K mile maintenance schedule for the 2003 V6 to replace the coolant. So when changing, I went to Dex-Cool so I can go 5 years.

Toyota went to the extended life coolant either in 2004 or 2005. Go figure.

 

[ToolmanJohn]

Picture of the Draincock

Here is a good picture of the driver's side engine block coolant draincock. I have the drivers side wheel removed, so I could reach into the engine area to attatch a vinyl hose and get a wrench on the drain valve bolt.

It is in the near center of the picture.

The passenger side draincock is near the back of the block, but easier to reach, less clutter.

 

[ToolmanJohn]

Another closer shot

Closer shot of the drain

 

[jharris2]

Thanks for the shots. Just goes to prove that the engineers should have to work on the engine with normal tools before they are allowed to release the design to the market. What were they thinking when they put it so you had to remove the wheel??

:bash:

 

[ToolmanJohn]

My short arms

Thanks for the shots. Just goes to prove that the engineers should have to work on the engine with normal tools before they are allowed to release the design to the market. What were they thinking when they put it so you had to remove the wheel??

:bash:

If I was over 6 feet, with a big reach, it could be possible to reach down inside and feel for the barb end to connect the hose, and also feel for the bolt to loosen. But I would have been inside the engine to do this. Even from directly beneath, the clutter is awkward, the half shafts for the 4wd are in the way.

I suppose they had to put them somewhere.