Coolant color?

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Mine looks like diarohea - Toy Red with some sludge mixed in. Maybe you mixed Toy red and Zerex orange?
 
It had green in before, but I had done a flush before I refilled. Must have still had some residual. I had milkshakes flashing through my imagination when I saw it...
 
green, i htink. the resvoire is darkish so its really hard to tell. still rated for 35 below which is important to me living in Montana.

but if I do a flush I was curious what was recomended.
 
MTDewX8 said:
green, i htink. the resvoire is darkish so its really hard to tell. still rated for 35 below which is important to me living in Montana.

but if I do a flush I was curious what was recomended.
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From what I've read about green vs. red is that red will have no benefits if you've already had green in there as the green leaves behind some tiny deposits even if you flush and the deposits don't mix with the red. This a short version of the mountain of stuff I read on a google search. The conclusion of my reading is that if green then stay green. I'm not saying it's a must I'm just saying that its recommended.

I could search this info out for you again if needed.
 
MTDewX8 said:
green, i htink. the resvoire is darkish so its really hard to tell. still rated for 35 below which is important to me living in Montana.

but if I do a flush I was curious what was recomended.
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First, a 50/50 mix of ANY color ethylene glycol coolant will protect to -34°F, even polka dot. Color only has to do with anti-corrosion technology.

Our trucks (EDIT: 3g's '99+) were born with Toyota Red, an IAT (inorganic acid technology) with phosphates and without silicates. With Toyota engines, phosphates are good, silicates are bad.

Toyota has now switched to their pink p-HOAT (Phosphated Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) Super Long Life full-strength stuff. This is already a 50/50 mix and protects to the same -34°F.

I think cj80 overstates the color switching issues. I had my dealer do the major services at 30k and 60k while I was in warranty to avoid issues. They took out the factory red at 30k and put in green. Then they took out the green at 60k and put in red again. I don't go back there any more, but they are probably doing all pink.

The red/pink and green technologies are antagonistic, but I don't believe 'tiny deposits' are going to destroy your protection. This probably more internet FUD, than reality. I have also done extensive reading on this topic. I flush real well, but I can use a hose because my mountain well water is extremely soft, testing below threshold for metals and calcium.

I am using Zerex Asian formula, which is a full-strength p-HOAT equivalent to Toyota pink and half the cost from NAPA, Amazon and others. Also good to -34°F.

That said, if you want to stick to green, keep your change interval at 30k or below and you will probably be fine. The newer green stuff is silicate free.
 
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Most of my info came from bob is the oil guy and it was a conclusion I felt was the safest bet from all the info I read. Someone even mention in another thread I posted in about coolant change that the red wasn't even offered until after my truck was on the market. Is that true? I tried to find a date with no luck.
 
cj80cruiser said:
Most of my info came from bob is the oil guy and it was a conclusion I felt was the safest bet from all the info I read. Someone even mention in another thread I posted in about coolant change that the red wasn't even offered until after my truck was on the market. Is that true? I tried to find a date with no luck.
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Yes, I was referring to the OP and myself when I said 'our'. Red started in '99. Again, I would rather switch from green to the preferred Toyota technology than just stick to green. You could do your first change after the swap at 30k or less, which the green tech is good for anyway.

I would add that Toyota developed the new coolant because of materials corrosion issues they were already having with traditional green coolant, so the fact that your truck was born with green does not mean you might not be better off switching. (Also off BITOG).

EDIT: Post # 1000!! Yay!
 
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good info, I will do some more reading on my own. but will probably do a flush soon and will decide then what color to go with.

thanks again
 
I flushed with a 10 minute product, then rinsed, and then filled with red. I flushed and rinsed with the heat wide open but I do not have rear heat. I even drained the passenger side of the block after all three steps via the mysterious drain plug that does exist. There must have been some lingering green in there somewhere somehow. I was just worried about milkshake setting in but have since seen pictures of the goo and feel better about it.
 
Diagram14 said:
I flushed with a 10 minute product, then rinsed, and then filled with red. I flushed and rinsed with the heat wide open but I do not have rear heat. I even drained the passenger side of the block after all three steps via the mysterious drain plug that does exist. There must have been some lingering green in there somewhere somehow. I was just worried about milkshake setting in but have since seen pictures of the goo and feel better about it.
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I don't think you have much risk of coolant milkshake unless the green was at least 8 or 9 years old. When I flushed mine, I pulled the thermostat, the top and bottom hoses and the non-existent block plug. I let the hose go into rad and then block for ten minutes each with both heaters on high. Then I filled with water, drove it around locally, and drained and refilled with coolant. Now THAT's a flush. But again, I have naturally low-mineral water available and $500 of tests to prove it.
 
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