Coolant leak from pitting around intake manifold

[DJRodriguez88]

I've been fighting this problem among other issues for a while now. There is some pretty bad pitting around the coolant ports on the heads where the intake manifold mounts.

The first time I had the intake manifold off was because I was doing my head gaskets. Replaced the intake manifold gaskets with new oem, leaked pretty much immediately.

I saw on one of Timmy's videos that if there's pitting you can put a bit of FIPG to fill in the pitting so that's what I tried first.

It pressure tested fine, held 16+ psi in the cooling system for 20min. It lasted a couple days but eventually leaked. I did it again a second time and the same

What other options do I have? If I had the heads off I'd have it welded and remachined but I'm not popping heads off again.

The next best thing I can think of is trying to carefully JB Weld the pits and do my best to sand it down smooth.

99 5vzfe TRD supercharger URD 7th

 

[Devbot]

Belzona would be the answer. Think JB Weld but on steroids. I've seen landing surfaces and valve seat pockets be repaired with it on much, MUCH larger engines than ours (as in 2500lb cylinder heads). But they'd similarly require being machined down to get a good surface again.
Why not just get a new pair of heads?

 

[mtbtim]

How long did you let the FIPG set up before starting the engine?

Did you use the 1282B FIPG I recommended in the video?

BTW, I'm Timmy the Toolman.

 

[DJRodriguez88]

Belzona would be the answer. Think JB Weld but on steroids. I'd seen landing surfaces and valve seat pockets be repaired with it on much, MUCH larger engines than ours. But they'd similarly require being machined down to get a good surface again.
Why not just get a new pair of heads?

Nice, I'll do some learning about that product. I don't want to get a new pair of heads because I just finished doing my head gaskets twice in a row because some dummy put the driver-side gasket on the passenger side (me).

How long did you let the FIPG set up before starting the engine?

Did you use the 1282B FIPG I recommended in the video?

I let it set for ~20min before fully tightening down the bolts, let it set overnight, fired it up next day.

I did not use the 1282B FIPG like you recommended because I am a nincompoop and didn't want to shell out $80+ for a tube of goop >_<. I had read many threads claiming that they use the 103 on water pumps and thought I could get away with it as well.

Should I reconsider buying the 1282B and trying again?
What about the JB Weld/Belzona idea?

 

[Devbot]

Nice, I'll do some learning about that product. I don't want to get a new pair of heads because I just finished doing my head gaskets twice in a row because some dummy put the driver-side gasket on the passenger side (me).



I let it set for ~20min before fully tightening down the bolts, let it set overnight, fired it up next day.

I did not use the 1282B FIPG like you recommended because I am a nincompoop and didn't want to shell out $80+ for a tube of goop >_<. I had read many threads claiming that they use the 103 on water pumps and thought I could get away with it as well.

Should I reconsider buying the 1282B and trying again?
What about the JB Weld/Belzona idea?

FIPG would be easier and cheaper.

 

[mtbtim]

Nice, I'll do some learning about that product. I don't want to get a new pair of heads because I just finished doing my head gaskets twice in a row because some dummy put the driver-side gasket on the passenger side (me).



I let it set for ~20min before fully tightening down the bolts, let it set overnight, fired it up next day.

I did not use the 1282B FIPG like you recommended because I am a nincompoop and didn't want to shell out $80+ for a tube of goop >_<. I had read many threads claiming that they use the 103 on water pumps and thought I could get away with it as well.

Should I reconsider buying the 1282B and trying again?
What about the JB Weld/Belzona idea?

I would try the 1282B. I know it's expensive, but I think it's the better option to try first before doing the JB weld. I've gotten away with the 103 in the past as well, but since it didn't work out for you, the 1282B is the next thing you should try in my opinion.

I found this tube for sale on Ebay. $50
https://www.ebay.com/p/655909719

 

[4RunAffairs]

I would try the 1282B. I know it's expensive, but I think it's the better option to try first before doing the JB weld. I've gotten away with the 103 in the past as well, but since it didn't work out for you, the 1282B is the next thing you should try in my opinion.

I found this tube for sale on Ebay. $50
Toyota OEM Seal Packing 1282b 08826-00100 for sale online | eBay

Hey Timmy- I'm working on the same repair now- very bad pitting around the water ports on the plenum side and 'not so bad' on the head side. I did significant repairs on all the pitting around each port with classic steel JB Weld. Reassembled with OEM gaskets. On first start had a new slight stumble/rough running especially at low RPMS. Gasket leaking air/coolant. Coolant in exhaust pipe + 02 sensor HCs went crazy after engine ran for a bit with some revs.

Pulled plenum to inspect. JB weld failed at 1 spot on head side surface near cyl. #1. Clear signs of gasket leaking both air and coolant into cyl. 1. Cleaned out the bad JB weld (visually you can see the difference where it failed vs held up. In the name of science, I am going to apply 1282b & reapply new OEM gaskets so I can see if this method is actually viable. Whether it holds for 2 secs, 2 mins, or 2 years- I'm gonna found out.

Two tiny spots e.g. 5% of the JB applied, failed where exposed to coolant. The 2 areas are both where I pushed the working time limit of the JB weld, so I currently suspect that is the root cause of failure. All other areas where JB is exposed to coolant + high temps looks perfectly unchanged and in-tact. Engine went thru 3 heat cycles with the JB applied before taking back apart to inspect leak. Which is why I don't immediately blame the JB weld itself. The stuff I used is rated for high temps (550f) but obviously not stated safe for coolant.

MY QUESTION: How should I apply the 1282b? Thin layer all over both sides of gasket? 2mm bead around just water ports? Any thoughts on how to apply the 1282b would in this particular application? Manual specifies to run a 2-3mm bead on other coolant-exposed surfaces, but these applications have a groove to lay the bead in... any thoughts or guiding principles would be much appreciated!

If or when I get this sorted out I'll do a write up (I have a lot of clear photos of the process so far) Thanks!