Cost ARB air locker install?

[Martinjmpr]

BTW, my limited, under experienced understanding of a center diff lock versus a rear diff lock is that the center diff lock splits power 50/50 to each axle but, a rear (or front) diff lock splits power 50/50 to left/right wheel of whichever axle the diff lock is on.

That's true but what you really have to understand (and I think this is the part that so many people get confused about) is that while they are both 'differential locks' and work the same way, they are on their for entirely different purposes. In fact, they are there for what can be thought of as diametrically opposed purposes.

The purpose of the center differential is to allow you to drive the vehicle on a dry, paved road in 4wd. The center diff allows the front and rear axle to turn at different speeds (as it will in a curve) and that keeps your driveline from binding up while driving in 4wd on hard, dry pavement.

When you are off-road, or on slippery surfaces (snow, ice, very wet pavement, etc) the binding does not occur because the slippery surface allows the wheels to slip and that relieves the binding on the drivetrain.

4wd vehicles with no center differential have warnings plastered on them that you should not use 4wd when driving on dry pavement, for this very reason.

When on pavement, the center differential should normally be open, that is to say 'on" which allows you to drive in 4wd and not cause binding in the drivetrain. When you go off road, you should switch it to "locked." This locks the center diff and it is as if the center diff is no longer there - your vehicle is now a 'conventional' 4wd vehicle.

The rear diff lock, OTOH, is designed to enhance off-road traction by preventing wheel spin if one wheel is in the air or on a low-traction surface. I don't know how others use the rear diff lock but when I had one (on my 99 SR5) I would only switch it on when I knew I needed maximum traction, otherwise it stayed off, even when I was off-road.

You seem to have it right. Course they are not mutually exclusive you could have a center diff lock and a rear diff lock or even front, center and rear though after market addons.

Center diff unlocked and no other locker = Minimum one driving wheel (any one of the 4) at all times.

That would be true if the center diff was an open differential but my understanding is that it is a torsen limited slip unit (at least the one on my 4th gen is said to be such.) This gives enhanced traction even when one axle has a wheel off the ground.

 

[dhatcher]

Thank you guys for the help, this is awesome! I love to learn.

The wife and I have reached an agreement. Going after the limited edition so she can get the interior color she wants (admittedly, I like it too; that reddish color one) and the JBL speaker system.

Later on, if we feel like we're reaching that point where our off-roading adventures are limited because of a missing locker we will go get the ARB setup installed. But first, we'll test the... limits of the limited

 

[2014 Warthog]

Installing the locker into the third member is between $375 (shop in atlanta) and $450 (high quote).

But don't forget...the shop will also charge you another $300-400 to drop the axle to remove/reinstall the third member.

So if you buy the locker and compressor, do the switches/compressor/air lines yourself. You are looking at $600-850 for install. So $1800 minimum all together, less if you get deals on the parts. Budget for $2k.

My rear arb locker install was $450 plus about $30 in seals total. Everything except the compressor install which I had already done.

But San Diego is a hotbed of offroading shops and mechanics... Maybe more expensive depending on area I guess.

 

[dhatcher]

Well, I have family in San Diego and go there occasionally. A nice vacation to Coronado sounds like it might in order if I decide to get the ARB setup done

 

[Martinjmpr]

I think the limited is a good choice.

If I was in the market for a 5th gen, I'd have to consider the limited just because of the full time 4wd setup. The only downside would be things like the big rims and the leather seats (neither of which I like.) Doesn't the limited have 20" wheels or something?

But of course, wheels and seats can be changed. Changing the 4wd system is a lot more difficult.

 

[dhatcher]

Yeh it does have 20" wheels and some initial poking around reveals there aren't many good tire choices for that size (wife likes those 20" wheels). Again, just something that eventually could be changed if need be (likely, I'm guessing ).

 

[mikey's2010SR5]

If I were to do it all over again I would go with a limited. And that is just to have the center diff. Of course I would take the XREAS out and lift it and then get rid of all the chrome and put bumpers, sliders, skids... to make it mine. Then down the road, as my current truck will get them later, the lockers and gears will come.

But right now I am happy.

Once you get your truck and want to get on the dirt hit me up, I am local to you. Also check out toyota120.com for trail runs to test the new truck.

Cheers

 

[Martinjmpr]

Yeh it does have 20" wheels and some initial poking around reveals there aren't many good tire choices for that size (wife likes those 20" wheels). Again, just something that eventually could be changed if need be (likely, I'm guessing ).

Yeah, not only are 20" wheels hella fugly, tires for them are $$$$$$!

(Which seems funny to me. Shouldn't they be LESS expensive? After all, more wheel = less rubber, right?)

Unless they have super-huge brakes, 17's should fit. I kind of wish I had 16's on mine (it had 16's when I got it but I swapped them out for 17" FJC steelies) just because I like having a bigger sidewall and also because 16" tires are cheaper.

 

[michael2522]

a center locking diff is 100% not the same as a rear locker. and pretty sure the trail edition only has a rear locking diff. the cost of installing a new arb rear air locker would be around 1100 for parts and then tap on another 500 or more for labor depending on where you are. Just guessing on labor but it will be that or more.

if it was me, 100% go for the trail, but then again I go offroading. so if you don't do much off roading go with the limited.

Just my 2 cents though...

We're shopping for a T4r and are discussing wether to look at 3rd gen with rear locking diff or a later model (4th gen) with aftermarket rear locking diff (ARB).
The road to our ranch is pure clay and in the rainy season becomes almost impassable for our 2004 highlander (trading the HL for a T4R). we also have a 84 FJ60 which on occasion also gets stuck...the road is bad when its under water. Would prefer a newer model ('06?) and really only need serious 4 x 4 (locking diff) a month or 2 out of the year. Any advise about yr or options appreciated. thkx

 

[techno]

[MENTION=154348]michael2522[/MENTION] Your budget (if you have one) might be the deciding factor here.

3rd gens discontinued the rear locker after 2000, so you'll be looking for a 96-00 and they will be around $3-6000.

4th gens came with a factory rear locker in the 2009 Trail Edition only, so any other year model and trim will need an aftermarket locker. However, the Active Traction Control (ATRAC) on the 4th gens is quite good. Traction control is way better than open diffs, but not quite as good as front and rear lockers. Note, in real slippery stuff, part of the ATRAC programming sometimes kills engine power and is f#$#$#g annoying. There's two choices to deal with that. Do a TRAC OFF modification (lots of write ups on this forum), or purchase an 08 or 09 model that came with a factory trac off switch. You're looking at $10,000 - $20,000 for a late model 4th gen.

In my opinion, an 09 Trail Edition is the perfect setup. It has everything you want straight from the factory. No messing around getting what you want. Unfortunately they are hard to find. There's usually only 2 or 3 for sale in the whole country at anytime.
The next best would be an 08 or 09 SR5 or Limited with an aftermarket diff lock. The Trac Off button on these models does 2 functions, a quick press and it disables the engine management part of the traction control and uses auto LSD only. A long press of the button turns everything off. Throw in a locker and you've got all the traction options you'll ever need.
Lastly, a 3rd gen with locker and decent tires will do very well and be a lot of fun. You'll get to do more maintenance too.

 

[michael2522]

[MENTION=154348]michael2522[/MENTION] Your budget (if you have one) might be the deciding factor here.

3rd gens discontinued the rear locker after 2000, so you'll be looking for a 96-00 and they will be around $3-6000.

4th gens came with a factory rear locker in the 2009 Trail Edition only, so any other year model and trim will need an aftermarket locker. However, the Active Traction Control (ATRAC) on the 4th gens is quite good. Traction control is way better than open diffs, but not quite as good as front and rear lockers. Note, in real slippery stuff, part of the ATRAC programming sometimes kills engine power and is f#$#$#g annoying. There's two choices to deal with that. Do a TRAC OFF modification (lots of write ups on this forum), or purchase an 08 or 09 model that came with a factory trac off switch. You're looking at $10,000 - $20,000 for a late model 4th gen.

In my opinion, an 09 Trail Edition is the perfect setup. It has everything you want straight from the factory. No messing around getting what you want. Unfortunately they are hard to find. There's usually only 2 or 3 for sale in the whole country at anytime.
The next best would be an 08 or 09 SR5 or Limited with an aftermarket diff lock. The Trac Off button on these models does 2 functions, a quick press and it disables the engine management part of the traction control and uses auto LSD only. A long press of the button turns everything off. Throw in a locker and you've got all the traction options you'll ever need.
Lastly, a 3rd gen with locker and decent tires will do very well and be a lot of fun. You'll get to do more maintenance too.

What a great, informative response...Thank you!!!