Could this cause damage to the drive train?

JP4RNR

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I saw a motor home/RV towing a 2005 4WD 4Runner behind it. All 4 of The 4Runners wheels were on the ground and I thought that this could damage the powertrain. I thought you needed a tow dolly for these vehicles?
 
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How coincidental, I just saw this two times today on my way back from NM. Yes you could really screw up the drive train if done frequently/long distance.
 
does the 4TH gen have a neutral setting on the 4WD HI/LO - 2WD selector?

if it does, i would imagine setting it to neutral would make it a perfectly fine thing to do..

Where would this harm the drivetrain?
 
It's called Dinghy Towing, and it's stated right in the 4Runner manual DO NOT tow with all 4 wheels on the ground or serious driveline damage will be done. The 4Runner is not designed to be Dinghy towed.

Those folks need to read their owner's manual. :headslap:

Remember, RTFM!!!
 
Saw many, many stupid things on the highway, to and from Chicago and cimarron, NM. 2 RV's, both towing 2 SUV's, one Jeep Commander, and one brand new Chevy Tahoe, both 4WD, both with all 4 wheels on the ground.
 
Hmmmmmm. Must be nice to have all that coin to pay for a new drivetrain.

My wife has an '05 Subaru Outback adn the owners manual for these vehicle states the same - put it on a trailer.

Just traded an '07 Highlander for my 4Runner, was AWD, and manual stated the same.

No real way to disengage the driveline so you just fry the gears, burn up what oil is there lubricate without running the vehicle.

Curious though........How would Toyota Technician determine if this was the cause of the damage? Likely would be suspicious after noticing the tow bar mounts on the front of the truck.

I have seen this a bit recently too.
 
There aren't too many SUVs designed for this anymore... Jeeps, full sized GM's to name a couple.

I think the tow points on the front would be a dead giveaway, and if that didn't work, perhaps the lack of data from the ECU during the time of the failure would also cause some mystery.
 
boston_kevin said:
I think the tow points on the front would be a dead giveaway, and if that didn't work, perhaps the lack of data from the ECU during the time of the failure would also cause some mystery. [/B]

Or the fact that it breaks down five states away from where it's registered, and they had to tow it to a dealer behind the RV, where it spends most of it's life LOL.
 
Do you think it's possible but not likely they disconnected the drive shafts between the transfer case/transmission. I guess even still this might harm the front/rear differential?
 
JP4RNR said:
Do you think it's possible but not likely they disconnected the drive shafts between the transfer case/transmission. I guess even still this might harm the front/rear differential?

The differential would be fine IMO, since it would be getting lubricated just as it would if it was under its own power, the problem with the tranny and such is that the pump isnt pumping lube to the required areas..

makes sense, good to know
 
spud72 said:
I think the only way that you could safely do it would be to pull both driveshafts.

And cap both outputs from the transmission and transfer case to no leakage could occur.

Maybe this is just me, but sounds like more work than it would be worth. Probably take 30-60 minutes once you get to you location to reattach the shafts every time you get to your location.
 
I wondered about this too. A quick search on google:

The first way of towing you car behind your RV is with all 4 wheels on the ground. Towing a car with all four wheels on the ground is more convenient if you plan on unhitching several times through out your trip. The first step in towing in this manner is to insure that your car is designed to be towed with all four wheels on the ground. Not all makes and models of cars are capable of being towed in this manner. Some cars with transmissions are equipped with front wheel drive or automatic transmissions and these cars can be damaged by towing them with all four wheels on the ground. There are solutions to this problem, however, including kits that allow vehicles with four-wheel drive or automatic transmission cars to be towed without harming them. There are also transmission lubrication systems that will keep the transmission lubricated while towing. Other devices include lockout devices that will allow the cars wheels to move freely. There are also transmission “uncouplers” that will allow your wheels to disconnect from the drive shaft and wheel freely. Rear-wheel drive vehicles work well with the uncouplers and all you have to do is move a lever to disconnect and reconnect.
 
Jacobzky said:
if so, how could it damage the drivetrain?

The damage occurs when the transmission (auto) is spun with it off, the fluid overheats and causes the fluid to burn/boilover, often even causes water boiling in the radiator from it getting soo hot. I dont quite know how to explain it simple but basically when the trans DriveShasft is spun at a high rate of speed for a period of time, the fluid builds up heat , with no way of dissapating it, this is normally cooled, lubricated and circulated by the transmission pump while its turned on. What you are suppose to do when you dinghy tow is disconnect the driveshaft so it does not allow the DS to turn while towing, or option2 is to buy a pump that circulates the trans oil while towing, something like a Remco pump.
 
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