Coyote inflatable Beadlocks

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My buddies and I have always kicked the idea around since they're fairly cheap compared to a normal beadlock. You have the advantage of locking both beads too. One of the guys I wheel with has Hummer wheels, which utilize a similar method where there's an internal rubber ring and when the two halves of the wheel are pulled together it clamps both beads. He's never had any issues with it, though the lowest I've seen him run was 7psi which is borderline not even worth it for beadlocks imo.

Benefits to both types of beadlocks. For all I know a lot of people use them and you just can't tell. Personally I like the look of beadlocks (real ones) so that played a factor, and the fact I could reseat a bead and mount a tire by myself was nice and I like the protection the rock ring gives (plus I needed new wheels anyways). On the flip side my TrailReadys cost $600 more than than most internals and they were the cheapest ones you and at the end of the day both systems do the same thing. Also the fact you have to rely on an inner tube holding the beads on and you can't visually inspect if it's working would put me on edge. To each their own, personally I would just get a locking ring style but different strokes for different folks.
 

I bring my stock 16" wheels and tires down to 10psi when I wheel. I tear them up and never popped a bead. If you run really wide wheels you could pop one I guess.

If your not going under 10-15psi you should not need these.
 
I can see myself air down 4-5psi for snow IF I'm in a jam, but you're right, don't think I'll be below 10psi really ever...

anyone out there that might consider these?

I'm not sure, as it doesn't say, but I think you have to modify your stock rim to run a 2nd valve... so some might run from that...
 
My buddies and I have always kicked the idea around since they're fairly cheap compared to a normal beadlock. You have the advantage of locking both beads too. One of the guys I wheel with has Hummer wheels, which utilize a similar method where there's an internal rubber ring and when the two halves of the wheel are pulled together it clamps both beads. He's never had any issues with it, though the lowest I've seen him run was 7psi which is borderline not even worth it for beadlocks imo.

Benefits to both types of beadlocks. For all I know a lot of people use them and you just can't tell. Personally I like the look of beadlocks (real ones) so that played a factor, and the fact I could reseat a bead and mount a tire by myself was nice and I like the protection the rock ring gives (plus I needed new wheels anyways). On the flip side my TrailReadys cost $600 more than than most internals and they were the cheapest ones you and at the end of the day both systems do the same thing. Also the fact you have to rely on an inner tube holding the beads on and you can't visually inspect if it's working would put me on edge. To each their own, personally I would just get a locking ring style but different strokes for different folks.

One consideration is DOT approval. Most traditional beadlocks aren't, but the inners are.
 
I bring my stock 16" wheels and tires down to 10psi when I wheel. I tear them up and never popped a bead. If you run really wide wheels you could pop one I guess.

If your not going under 10-15psi you should not need these.

so you're running 305/70r16 on stock rim size, that's a 33x12.5r16.... what's your thoughts on a 285/70r16 or 32x11.5r16 at that same pressure? will the smaller tire hold the bead the same?
 
so you're running 305/70r16 on stock rim size, that's a 33x12.5r16.... what's your thoughts on a 285/70r16 or 32x11.5r16 at that same pressure? will the smaller tire hold the bead the same?

The larger the tire the less chance of popping the bead. Some buggy offroad guys told me they called 16x7's wheels ghetto locks since they could be used with 35's and not pop beads.

I have ran my 305's and 285/75's to 10-15psi without any issue so far. Knock on wood.
 
I looked, but didn't see it now. but previously when I researched these(may have been inner airlocks) they recommended not going below 4-5psi.

which seems silly, because beadlocks aren't really needed above 10psi. so that only gives a 5psi window where they would "work"

I often drop down to 1-2 depending on the snow conditions. if these wouldn't work for that, what good are they?
 

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