Crack fix
- Thread starter TrexRunnerGirl
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Replace the panel, there is no fixing that without it looking like a repair since the material is old, brittle-ish and under tension/stretch. The good news is it's in a low traffic area, so it probably won't get worse until you replace the panel.
Luck
2ndhandyotaman
Member
I'd smear a bit of sho-goo into the cracked area then pull together the crack as much as possible with some tape and leave it sit over night while the adhesive dries. You will still be able to see that it's been repaird but it should help to keep it from getting any worse.
pluton
Senior Member
I like the shoo goo idea. Any of the Goo Series Of Fine Adhesives will fill in the remaining crack, keeping water out. RTV might do roughly the same job, though RTV isn't the greatest adhesive. Super glue tends to be runny(even the thicker 'gel' versions) and is not favored for filling voids. I assume that the way it looks doesn't matter, only that it stops the tear and feels right when you lean your arm on the doorsill. If the way it looks does matter, kindly disregard everything above.
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Beaumont67
New member
As stated above, SHOE GOO looks interesting:
https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/shoe-goo-shoe-repair-protective-coating-295ml/6000191325754
I'd fix that door panel, before replacing it.
- even before I got nylon seat covers on my Gen3 front buckets, my Doberman Kelly had one toenail, make a small "v" puncture, on the mint fabric
- I got some Gorilla super-glue and it dries quickly
- so in 5 seconds time, I coated the foam under the seat cloth rip...with the liquid glue
- and applied finger tip pressure, for 30 seconds
- 5 minutes later, a light brushing the repair area / spot is now 100% invisible
Trex - In your case, gel and not liquid super-glue might work.
BUT:
I have some 24 hour epoxy, from my twin brothers golf club building business / I use it in many different applications.
- the slower the epoxy set, the stronger it becomes...so stay away from 5 minute epoxy, at the auto store
- mix part A and part B equally ... and apply with the tip of a small flat blade screwdriver
- do it over 2 days ... first to build up and get some under the vinyl, eliminate pockets / strengthen the bond, from inside-out first
- plus tape glue repair with masking tape on vinyl, while glue is drying underneath / this will de-stretch the vinyl & keep area flat
- next day, lighter coat of epoxy & allow glue flow to feather out level
- the look of the job, should be decent enough...got to control the screw driver tip like a small paint brush...and dab it in
- less mix is better, to start...don't overload slotted tip with glue, to control product / for the very best repair look
PS - tape the crack off, with masking tape...leaving 1/16" of undamaged vinyl exposed.
- a cue-tip wetted in Acetone, is a great little tool, to remove excess epoxy / and the edge of a wooden Popsicle stick, is good for final leveling out glue
- to me the repair, could be very successful...just take your time and carefully apply the leveling agent / paint repair area with matching model paint enamel
https://www.walmart.ca/en/ip/shoe-goo-shoe-repair-protective-coating-295ml/6000191325754
I'd fix that door panel, before replacing it.
- even before I got nylon seat covers on my Gen3 front buckets, my Doberman Kelly had one toenail, make a small "v" puncture, on the mint fabric
- I got some Gorilla super-glue and it dries quickly
- so in 5 seconds time, I coated the foam under the seat cloth rip...with the liquid glue
- and applied finger tip pressure, for 30 seconds
- 5 minutes later, a light brushing the repair area / spot is now 100% invisible
Trex - In your case, gel and not liquid super-glue might work.
BUT:
I have some 24 hour epoxy, from my twin brothers golf club building business / I use it in many different applications.
- the slower the epoxy set, the stronger it becomes...so stay away from 5 minute epoxy, at the auto store
- mix part A and part B equally ... and apply with the tip of a small flat blade screwdriver
- do it over 2 days ... first to build up and get some under the vinyl, eliminate pockets / strengthen the bond, from inside-out first
- plus tape glue repair with masking tape on vinyl, while glue is drying underneath / this will de-stretch the vinyl & keep area flat
- next day, lighter coat of epoxy & allow glue flow to feather out level
- the look of the job, should be decent enough...got to control the screw driver tip like a small paint brush...and dab it in
- less mix is better, to start...don't overload slotted tip with glue, to control product / for the very best repair look
PS - tape the crack off, with masking tape...leaving 1/16" of undamaged vinyl exposed.
- a cue-tip wetted in Acetone, is a great little tool, to remove excess epoxy / and the edge of a wooden Popsicle stick, is good for final leveling out glue
- to me the repair, could be very successful...just take your time and carefully apply the leveling agent / paint repair area with matching model paint enamel
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TrexRunnerGirl
New member
Would I have to take the door panel apart to do that?
the little piece that goes around the lock keeps popping up so I want to get it fixed asap so I don't somehow lose it.
the little piece that goes around the lock keeps popping up so I want to get it fixed asap so I don't somehow lose it.
Beaumont67
New member
a) repair crack, leaving door panel on
b) the little door lock bezel probably has a tab on each end
- that need pressing in, to lift off (my guess)
BrianSD_42
New member
Repair that looks decent isn't going to be easy or worth it. As already started, just replace the panel. BTW, they aren't worth much used and should be easy to find.
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You could put a little bit of electrical tape around the lock trim. It will be a tighter fit.
thenightman
New member
In cases like this I have seen people recommend that a person use hot glue, but hot glue should only be used in a spot you cant see in a vehicle you care about. When in the sun it will turn yellow in a year or so. Then the exposed part will probably shrink up, helping it along to it eventually giving out. Plus the interior plastics of a Toyota don't adhere to hot glue too well.
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pluton
Senior Member
You're right...hot glue is a poor choice. Will amend post above.
TrexRunnerGirl
New member
If I could find a Runner in a scrap yard around here it’d be worth rummaging around. So few here can’t find squat.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Put aWTB in the classified here and look for people parting out - I see these panels in various conditions at the yards around here, mostly junk, it's a waiting game for sure.
Hepar
New member
Keep an eye on this website. They have a pretty good database of parts and they're by location as well.
https://www.hollanderparts.com