Meh. That's why I mentioned my rear brakes being out of whack probably didn't help. That being said, without changing anything but the calipers from 231's back to 199's there was a noticeable positive difference in pedal travel. Not trashing your brakes, there are plenty of people that are happy with the swap. This is also why I said there are many different opinions around this topic. I've read through every TBU thread I could find...I'm not even close to being the only person that has experienced this side effect.
Cracked rear drums, and patience.
- Thread starter 20024r
- Start date
Meh. That's why I mentioned my rear brakes being out of whack probably didn't help. That being said, without changing anything but the calipers from 231's back to 199's there was a noticeable positive difference in pedal travel. Not trashing your brakes, there are plenty of people that are happy with the swap. This is also why I said there are many different opinions around this topic. I've read through every TBU thread I could find...I'm not even close to being the only person that has experienced this side effect.
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
Looking at the parts break down for 3rd gen 4Runners looks like there were 4 different rear axles used. In 2002 it looks like the Toyota part # is 42311-35400. You have VSC in your truck. The axles you are using are not for that sub-generation of 4Runner.
Now, I'm certainly not going to claim I know the difference between any of these axles, bearings,etc, but I will say that Toyotas can be VERY particular about the parts going in them. The part #s are different for a reason. That's why I think SOME AM parts fail is because they are not precisely engineered for that particular year, make, and model. I also am not going to tell you that what you have done will work or not. It might, or it might not. It might work for a while and then... Anyways, I know what I would do, which is make sure I have the RIGHT parts on there - NO QUESTIONS. If something happens, say you grenade your rear differential - it's gonna get expensive real quick.
Hopefully, someone will chime in and say that they did what you did and have been driving it that way for years with no issues. I would feel a little better then. However, I would not drive it if no one can confirm this.
I agree most definitely. I'd also feel a lot better about it if I had just kept my old axles around for cross reference/measurement. I know the axles are the same length, and have the same spline pattern, but what I don't know is whether or not the wheel bearings themselves seat at the exact same point on the axles. The bearing carrier and drum back plate could be different, the axles could be sitting too far out. Hmm. Well here's a picture, hopefully someone has some experience with this!
<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/bBo4j0X"><a href="//imgur.com/bBo4j0X"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
All good so far...
Well, after a whole lot of sitting on the internet checking parts sites and forums I decided to go for it. The 1996-2000 4runner axle shafts w/correct wheel bearings (Yukon part #YAT35350) fit perfectly in my 2002 4runner using all factory 2002 axle housing, drum plate, etc. Once installed there is no axle play, drums/axle flange is located where it should be compared to backing plate. On the road/freeway there are no shimmys, noises, vibrations or anything else that would lead me to believe these axles will not work. I am not telling people to do this, I couldn't find anyone that has so I guess it'll be me. Just want this info out here so if anyone else runs into the same problem they have somewhere to look. So far I have no reason to believe this will not work, I'll keep the thread posted with updates if anything changes. For now I'm just happy to have a vehicle again.
<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/8ECUtRn"><a href="//imgur.com/8ECUtRn"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Well, after a whole lot of sitting on the internet checking parts sites and forums I decided to go for it. The 1996-2000 4runner axle shafts w/correct wheel bearings (Yukon part #YAT35350) fit perfectly in my 2002 4runner using all factory 2002 axle housing, drum plate, etc. Once installed there is no axle play, drums/axle flange is located where it should be compared to backing plate. On the road/freeway there are no shimmys, noises, vibrations or anything else that would lead me to believe these axles will not work. I am not telling people to do this, I couldn't find anyone that has so I guess it'll be me. Just want this info out here so if anyone else runs into the same problem they have somewhere to look. So far I have no reason to believe this will not work, I'll keep the thread posted with updates if anything changes. For now I'm just happy to have a vehicle again.
<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/8ECUtRn"><a href="//imgur.com/8ECUtRn"></a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Update
Well figured I'd follow up in case anyone digs this thread up. After install I began feeling horrible pulsing in the rear brakes, along with an overall rough ride feel under acceleration and normal driving. Just solved every issue by buying an entire 2002 rear end with drums etc (for $60 buck) I swapped the oem 2002 axles into my axle housing along with the brakes/drums. The runner has never driven or stopped better than it does now. So, I'm going to have to stick with the oem guys on this one, there is no good alternative. Mainly the point is that 1996-2000 axles and wheel bearings are not compatible with 2001-2002 housings and bearing cups. Possibly if you swapped the early style bearing cup and backing plate it may still work but it's worth the piece of mind just getting the right stuff once. Glad I didn't wreck my car and now we know!
Well figured I'd follow up in case anyone digs this thread up. After install I began feeling horrible pulsing in the rear brakes, along with an overall rough ride feel under acceleration and normal driving. Just solved every issue by buying an entire 2002 rear end with drums etc (for $60 buck) I swapped the oem 2002 axles into my axle housing along with the brakes/drums. The runner has never driven or stopped better than it does now. So, I'm going to have to stick with the oem guys on this one, there is no good alternative. Mainly the point is that 1996-2000 axles and wheel bearings are not compatible with 2001-2002 housings and bearing cups. Possibly if you swapped the early style bearing cup and backing plate it may still work but it's worth the piece of mind just getting the right stuff once. Glad I didn't wreck my car and now we know!
Thanks for giving us the follow-up/resolution.
I also noticed a longer pedal travel and overall mushiness after the TBU. I’m in the process of rebuilding my seized bellcranks and adjusting the rear brakes so hopefully this solves the issue. I’ve already bled them six ways to Sunday and that didn’t really help (other than the get the old fluid replaced).
When I bought the 4R, the front brakes were horribly warped, which is why I went with the TBU. After taking the rears apart, I found that both bellcranks AND the self adjusters were totally seized and the drums slid off with no resistance whatsoever. The shoes had no wear on them. It was if someone had replaced them but not serviced any other components of the rear brakes. I knew the handbrake was not functional when I bought it, but I’m pretty sure there was absolutely no braking happening in the rear, which shifted all the braking to the front, thus warping the rotor.
I also noticed a longer pedal travel and overall mushiness after the TBU. I’m in the process of rebuilding my seized bellcranks and adjusting the rear brakes so hopefully this solves the issue. I’ve already bled them six ways to Sunday and that didn’t really help (other than the get the old fluid replaced).
When I bought the 4R, the front brakes were horribly warped, which is why I went with the TBU. After taking the rears apart, I found that both bellcranks AND the self adjusters were totally seized and the drums slid off with no resistance whatsoever. The shoes had no wear on them. It was if someone had replaced them but not serviced any other components of the rear brakes. I knew the handbrake was not functional when I bought it, but I’m pretty sure there was absolutely no braking happening in the rear, which shifted all the braking to the front, thus warping the rotor.
