Crankshaft Pulley Problems

[sirecks]

Hello Everyone,

This is my first time on this forum, so "Hello there:hello: "

My problem is this. Yesterday I started working on my wife's 4Runner. It is a 1998 SR5, automatic, not 4WD. I am changing the timing belt. All was going well until I got to the crankshaft pulley. I can not get the nut off to save my life.

I had a friend come over with his impact wrench. We had it up to about 140 psi. It was a 1/2" I believe. That didn't work. Next. we got out my 3' breaker bar, and put a closed end wrench on the end of it to give us more leverage. Him and I both pulling on it couldn't break the torque. We broke two of my tools, and one of his trying to pry this thing off.

Does anyone know a trick with this? I am starting to suspect that the bolt may be a left-handed thread, but I can find nothing to back that up. Do I need a 3/4" impact wrench? Does anyone know?

I would appreciate any advice or help on this, as the repair is now waiting on this one step.

Thanks in advance for the effort.

 

[TechWrench]

Hello Everyone,

This is my first time on this forum, so "Hello there:hello: "

My problem is this. Yesterday I started working on my wife's 4Runner. It is a 1998 SR5, automatic, not 4WD. I am changing the timing belt. All was going well until I got to the crankshaft pulley. I can not get the nut off to save my life.

I had a friend come over with his impact wrench. We had it up to about 140 psi. It was a 1/2" I believe. That didn't work. Next. we got out my 3' breaker bar, and put a closed end wrench on the end of it to give us more leverage. Him and I both pulling on it couldn't break the torque. We broke two of my tools, and one of his trying to pry this thing off.

Does anyone know a trick with this? I am starting to suspect that the bolt may be a left-handed thread, but I can find nothing to back that up. Do I need a 3/4" impact wrench? Does anyone know?

I would appreciate any advice or help on this, as the repair is now waiting on this one step.

Thanks in advance for the effort.

Do a search on this, as I remember, there are several threads on this issue. From what I remember, one of the suggestions was to get a long breaker bar with a good six point inpact socket and brace the breaker bar against the floor with the socket on the bolt and (after pulling the plug wires so it doesn't start) hit the key to crank the engine real quick. This uses the starting motor to turn engine against the breaker bar and break the bolt loose. I haven't actually tried this method myself, and warn that it can be a dangerous procedure, so proceed at your own risk. You can also check the yotatech fourm for additional info.

Also, if you do get it off, remember the torque setting for that bolt is somewhere in the area of 180 ft lbs ( this is why you are having a hard time breaking it loose). You have to torque it correctly when putting it back together, or it might come loose on its own.

 

[sirecks]

Thank you Techwrench for the tip.

This morning I went out the car, did some prayin' on the way, spit into my palms, and went about it one more time with good ol' fashion elbow grease. My second attempt today proved to be a good one as I heard that most lovely of sounds; the snap when the torque is broken.

I was able to get it off by myself today, and not yesterday with another big guy helping me. Go figure. :dunno:

Anyway, the car is now back in one piece, running like a champ. We even test drove it out to Hardee's just to make sure. :

The next time I am faced with something like this I will definitely remember your tip. It sounds like a great idea.

Thanks again.

EDIT: Yeah, and as for the torque, it was 184. I was given permission from my wife to spend some money on some new tools to do this job right, because of all the money I was saving us by doing it myself, so it was off to Sears to get a new torque wrench that covered that particular setting.

I tell ya, everything in that store was looking mighty sweet after being given the "go ahead" from my wife on the money . . . . but, I remained a good boy and only got what was needed for THIS job.

 

[ToolmanJohn]

Not a method I would try

That method of having a wrench on the crankshaft pulley and using the motor torque to loosen it it crazy, in my opinion. If you have a tool attatched to a rotating component of the engine, and try turning it over to loosen a nut, you are a NUT. : Wow, it would take less than a second to destroy something. If the socket came slightly loose, it could send that wrench sailing.

AND DON'T try it on a 4th Gen! We have the nice start hold feature. Turn key, motor cranks until started. Ooopsie!! Please do not leave tools in the engine bay when turning the motor over.

 

[bulldog-yota]

I have used the starter method a few times in the past, and do not recommend it. It's far to dangerous.

Next time (if you have the space) just use a long closed wrench of extremely good quality and a 5 pound hammer. That have worked much better for me. Haven't tried it on a 4Runner yet, but lots of other yota, nissan and vw engines, but they were normally out of the engine bay by then.

 

[sirecks]

Well, based on the advice of those who have actually tried this method, I must say that I will surely do everything within my physical powers to remove the nut next time without touching my keys!!

As I said above, using my lil' ol' arms, I removed the nut in the normal old fashioned manner, and didn't have to resort to such measures.

Thanks again all. :cheers:

 

[Filipp]

Broken Harmonic Balancer

Hi all. My first post. I can't start a new thread so I am piggy backing here. I am new to working on cars and this is the first timing belt change I have attempted. I was trying to remove the crankshaft bolt using a breaker bar and my pulley broke :cry2:. I posted a video below. Can anyone suggest what I can can do next to remove the bolt and replace the pulley?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGUp-tPFVq8

Car is a 1996 4Runner Limited.

Thanks,
Filipp

 

[Filipp]

Plan for tomorrow

After doing a bunch of research I plan to heat the bolt up with a propane torch to help loosen it and use the starter motor bump method along with a breaker bar wedged into the chassis to try and take it off.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

After doing a bunch of research I plan to heat the bolt up with a propane torch to help loosen it and use the starter motor bump method along with a breaker bar wedged into the chassis to try and take it off.

Or use a chain wrench. Probably goes without saying, replace the pulley.

 

[TechWrench]

Old thread, but since I just finished replacing the timing belt along with the associated parts that were readily accessible, I thought I would share my experience with removing the crank shaft pulley bolt. I decided that trying to the bump starter with a socket and breaker bar wasn't such a good idea, so I read some where else on this forum about using an old serpentine belt wrapped around the crank pulley to hold it while breaking the bolt loose. I did have an old serpentine belt from my old SR5/V6 saved, so I decided to try that method. The V6 serpentine belt has 7 ribs in stead of the 6 the V8 has, so I cut one of the ribs off. As the other poster suggested, I reversed the belt so the ribs were facing out. The made a fold in the belt, and wound it around the crank pulley, being careful to watch which direction you plan to go in. I looped the excess belt around the top left (engine orientation) valve cover casting behind the cam shaft pulley, and using a breaker bar and socket, slowly turned the pulley until the belt tightened and locked the crank pulley in place. With an extension pipe on the breaker bar, I was able to easily break the bolt loose. When it came time to tighten the bolt during reassembly, I just reversed the direction of the belt around the crank pulley, and used the other side valve cover casting, to hold the belt end. Once belt had tightened around the pulley, it was easy to tighten the bolt. This method is real easy, and other than having an old belt on hand, doesn't require any special tools or makeshift pulley wrenches.

I also used this method to hold the cams in place while tightening the cam bolts up.

I don't remember who the original poster was who suggested the belt method, but my hat is off to them. The idea works well, and is easy to use.

 

[97t4r81]

I've known 2 mechanic friends that recommend the starter method, so after cranking on that bolt till I thought I'd lose a nut I pulled the plug wires and did the starter method. Worked awesome! I put it in 3rd and stood up on my breaker w/cheater to tighten, I'll double torque at my friends shop. So far so good

 

[TechWrench]

I've known 2 mechanic friends that recommend the starter method, so after cranking on that bolt till I thought I'd lose a nut I pulled the plug wires and did the starter method. Worked awesome! I put it in 3rd and stood up on my breaker w/cheater to tighten, I'll double torque at my friends shop. So far so good

You don't mention what year your ride is, but I am going to guess it is not a 4th gen since they didn't come with a standard trans option. And with the auto-start function on the 4th gen, I would think using the starter to turn the engine over while a socket and breaker bar is attached to crank pulley bolt might not be the best method to employ, IMHO.

 

[97t4r81]

I have 98 and I was nervous too, but without plug wires it wasn't starting. I like your method (with belt around pulley) and will use in the future. I'm only posting to provide proof of concept, many ways to accomplish a task.

 

[TechWrench]

I have 98 and I was nervous too, but without plug wires it wasn't starting. I like your method (with belt around pulley) and will use in the future. I'm only posting to provide proof of concept, many ways to accomplish a task.

I would think it goes without saying, that the plug wires should be disconnected to prevent an unintended engine start during this procedure. My main issue is with those that have a 4th gen. With the start-hold feature built in, I can envision someone being VERY surprised when the engine continues to crank once the key is hit. It may be easy to say that one only has to turn the key off to stop the engine cranking, but in the heat of the moment, it would be easy for someone to be a little slow in remembering that. While I may have briefly entertained the thought of trying that in the past, I have sense then come to the conclusion that too many BAD things could go wrong, very quickly, and looked for a safer method. The belt method worked very well, for me, and it would be my first recommendation to anyone doing this at home.