Hi, I just got this for my daughter. Drove 300 miles across ND on Sat and picked it up. Drove 300 miles home at about 78 MPH and got 22.6 miles per gallon- thanks to a very stiff tail wind. It's a 98 with the V6 and 225K miles- paid $3500. Definitely not pristine but spent the majority of its existence in the WA state area so very rust free for this part of the country. She needs a lot of love and I am trying to figure out what to do first, etc. I have ordered LBJs already and it needs T belt, valve cover gaskets, and maybe something else. It leaks oil from the front right side of the engine bay, pretty good sized spot on my driveway. This is what I really need help diagnosing. I will attach pics of the affected areas. Thanks in advance
Critique/prioritize/diagnose/rate my new ride :-)
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Is there ANY chance that all that oil is from the valve cover gaskets and dripping all over everything? Seem like too much for that so there must be another leak somewhere that I don't know about. Any other common leaks that would make that big a mess?
Thank you!
Is there ANY chance that all that oil is from the valve cover gaskets and dripping all over everything? Seem like too much for that so there must be another leak somewhere that I don't know about. Any other common leaks that would make that big a mess?
Thank you!
Attachments
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Replace that radiator and make sure there is no oil/trans fluid in the coolant.
Check/replace spark plugs. Vacuum out spark plug tubes before pulling the plugs. Wires look new-ish, route them properly. Check your coil packs, look for rusty lower springs.
As mentioned, degrease and clean off the engine and running gear and do an oil and filter change. Measure how much oil comes out.
Check your tie rod ends and brakes while you are swapping LBJs. Do one side at a time so you don't lose center on your steering wheel. Get new bolts to attach the LBJs while you are at it and torque everything to FSM spec.
Check your inner and outer tie rod ends, lower control arm bushings, upper control arm bushings and upper ball joints. If all is well, check/get the alignment done.
For $3,500 you got a good deal, just be prepared to put some money into it to keep it reliable and safe for your daughter :thumb:
Check/replace spark plugs. Vacuum out spark plug tubes before pulling the plugs. Wires look new-ish, route them properly. Check your coil packs, look for rusty lower springs.
As mentioned, degrease and clean off the engine and running gear and do an oil and filter change. Measure how much oil comes out.
Check your tie rod ends and brakes while you are swapping LBJs. Do one side at a time so you don't lose center on your steering wheel. Get new bolts to attach the LBJs while you are at it and torque everything to FSM spec.
Check your inner and outer tie rod ends, lower control arm bushings, upper control arm bushings and upper ball joints. If all is well, check/get the alignment done.
For $3,500 you got a good deal, just be prepared to put some money into it to keep it reliable and safe for your daughter :thumb:
TejasRunner01
New member
Hey dude, the body looks pretty straight. Those leaks are pretty significant and need to be prioritized. The valve cover for one is definitely leaking. It is odd that it is on top of the valve cover too. I would clean it up very good with an engine degreaser like the last poster said. Dye can be helpful to see how high up the engine it is leaking. I would pay attention to the rear main seal area which is where the engine and transmission marry together. If you begin seeing leaks there that seal will need to be replaced.
I personally would consider doing a cylinder leak down/compression test before putting much money into the truck just to make the the engine is healthy. Whenever I see leaks like that I always question if the engine has been ran on low oil levels and caused wear. It may be perfectly fine though.
I think the big thing is fix the leaks so you can get some good fluids in there.
Looking forward to your progress!
I personally would consider doing a cylinder leak down/compression test before putting much money into the truck just to make the the engine is healthy. Whenever I see leaks like that I always question if the engine has been ran on low oil levels and caused wear. It may be perfectly fine though.
I think the big thing is fix the leaks so you can get some good fluids in there.
Looking forward to your progress!
mtbtim
Elite Member
Jeez Louise, that's a whole lot of greasy mess you got going on with that rig. Invest in some degreaser and power wash that sucker at a coin-op car wash. Once you get a lot of the gunk off the undercarriage and engine, maybe you can start to figure out where all your leaks are coming from.
I would assume your valve cover gaskets are leaking because all of our rigs have had leaking valve cover gaskets at one point.
Here's a few videos to help you get going on the path to a healthy 3rd Gen.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/a81i1Cayf_I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/N5fAXAuGozI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/bfLvtEnX9qk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
We have a lot more videos where these came from. Check out our channel for more helpful videos: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9EMiD9KPy61kJ6hdXcbjxA?view_as=subscriber
I would assume your valve cover gaskets are leaking because all of our rigs have had leaking valve cover gaskets at one point.
Here's a few videos to help you get going on the path to a healthy 3rd Gen.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/a81i1Cayf_I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/N5fAXAuGozI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/bfLvtEnX9qk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
We have a lot more videos where these came from. Check out our channel for more helpful videos: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9EMiD9KPy61kJ6hdXcbjxA?view_as=subscriber
Last edited:
octanejunkie
Elite Member
It's brown, which means old. It should be black. If you look real close there are probably thin, light colored hairline-looking cracks too.
And yes, compression test wouldn't hurt
eace:
mtbtim
Elite Member
Timing Belt video is coming soon so stay tuned.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Assuming you are doing the work yourself, a compression tester is maybe $20?
Here's how you do it
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?t=161370
If you want a shop to do it, call around for pricing.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Coward
New member
I wouldn't bother with the compression test if it runs fine unless you just want to know the results. Radiator replacement is a good idea because the transmission cooler is inside of the radiator. If the radiator fails (they all do at some point) the coolant will mix with the trans fluid and that is bad thing. I would bet the oily mess is from the valve cover gaskets and failure to clean up the front diff after oil changes.
#1 LBJ's and expect to do the ITRE & OTRE as well.
#2 Radiator
#3 Timing belt and valve cover gaskets
#1 LBJ's and expect to do the ITRE & OTRE as well.
#2 Radiator
#3 Timing belt and valve cover gaskets
marcus clarkus
New member
Lots of other good responses in this thread. Here are two simple ones that you can knock out in less than a half hour:
- grease front and rear driveshaft zerk fittings (see the 30k mile service video that mtbtim posted). If you keep these things pumped full of good, clean grease they should last for a very long time.
- replace breather plug on rear differential if it looks rusty/clogged with gunk. There are lots of posts on here about rear axle seal leaks. People sometimes attribute it to a clogged breather plug, which allows excessive pressure to build in the rear differential and force oil past the seals. I can't say I've tested this, but it makes sense and the breather plug is only $3 so it's not a bad idea to just replace it.
Also, if the steering feels good I'd avoid replacing the inner and outer tie rod ends. Just do the LBJs (since they have a catastrophic failure mode) and call it done -- no need to spend a ton of money replacing functional parts. That's what I did @215k miles and everything feels good.
If the ride feels super soft and bouncy, and the rear end looks like it's sagging a lot (can't really tell in the pic), you could replace all four shocks and coils. This would cost probably $500-$1000 and would greatly improve the ride quality. I'm not sure it that's worth the money for you -- all depends on your financial situation and how much money you're willing to put into this vehicle.
Good luck!
- grease front and rear driveshaft zerk fittings (see the 30k mile service video that mtbtim posted). If you keep these things pumped full of good, clean grease they should last for a very long time.
- replace breather plug on rear differential if it looks rusty/clogged with gunk. There are lots of posts on here about rear axle seal leaks. People sometimes attribute it to a clogged breather plug, which allows excessive pressure to build in the rear differential and force oil past the seals. I can't say I've tested this, but it makes sense and the breather plug is only $3 so it's not a bad idea to just replace it.
Also, if the steering feels good I'd avoid replacing the inner and outer tie rod ends. Just do the LBJs (since they have a catastrophic failure mode) and call it done -- no need to spend a ton of money replacing functional parts. That's what I did @215k miles and everything feels good.
If the ride feels super soft and bouncy, and the rear end looks like it's sagging a lot (can't really tell in the pic), you could replace all four shocks and coils. This would cost probably $500-$1000 and would greatly improve the ride quality. I'm not sure it that's worth the money for you -- all depends on your financial situation and how much money you're willing to put into this vehicle.
Good luck!
Lots of people already touched on everything. The time spent cleaning it up underneath & engine area, than watching it after a drive will help tremendously for diagnosing. Lots of links for helpful information and a DIY is plentiful around here. Don't be shy in asking for help but google is a GREAT resource with just the " 'toyota-4runner.org 3rd gen' question after the first ' area".
