CroMo axles wont fit elocker retrofit?

[Scotty_h]

OK... You guys with experience in setting up diffs, can the diff be setup incorrectly to cause a problem like this?

Not to be paranoid, but my diff guy set it up in a hurry. The spacing looks good but i got to ask these questions before i run it in with bolts.

 

[Scotty_h]

Drawing them together, huh, who woulda thought? :behindsofa:

OK, thanks everyone for the help... It seems after I put a knock in my last motor by being hasty, I may be a little gunshy about, apparently just bolting sh*t together.

It came together with a 'ping' but very little resistance. Thank you all... Kill this thread, for now.

 

[Xinirgi]

Glad you got it figured, but just for clarity - you mentioned no grease movement on the lock ring? So the seal isn't riding on it at all, and you have no leaks?

 

[AaronM33]

So here's a thought: have you tried switching the axles side to side? I'm new to this site and the 4runner world but I'm an experienced Jeep guy and used to be an ASE Master Auto tech. Once I couldn't get one of my axles to seat entirely on a Dana 44 and it was because one shaft was 1/4 longer than the other. I was putting them back in the wrong sides. I know it's a 'Yota axle and not a Dana but it's worth a shot if you're still scratching your head over this.

EDIT: so you got it, and I'm late to the game. Good jorb there.

 

[Scotty_h]

Glad you got it figured, but just for clarity - you mentioned no grease movement on the lock ring? So the seal isn't riding on it at all, and you have no leaks?

No, no grease on the lockring is being flattened out. It is now drawn together so that the seal is engaged... subsequently there should be no leaks now. It had stopped shy of being flush by 3mm no grease that I put on was being dispersed by contact on the end of the axle, lockring, or ABS ring. This is how we figured that drawing it together would be the ticket as no key components seemed to be interfering/bottomed out.

Could have been slag in my splines, could have been some fitment with squeezing the housing lip into my backplate groove, I'm still not sure. USE THE DAMN BOLTS :tinfoil3:

 

[Scotty_h]

So here's a thought: have you tried switching the axles side to side? I'm new to this site and the 4runner world but I'm an experienced Jeep guy and used to be an ASE Master Auto tech. Once I couldn't get one of my axles to seat entirely on a Dana 44 and it was because one shaft was 1/4 longer than the other. I was putting them back in the wrong sides. I know it's a 'Yota axle and not a Dana but it's worth a shot if you're still scratching your head over this.

EDIT: so you got it, and I'm late to the game. Good jorb there.

The shafts are the same part no doubt on these trucks. This was checked when we installed the aftermarket shafts. Although, this was my initial fear when I ran into this problem. a bottomed out axle in my diff that needed to be forced. Thanks for pitching in! :rockon:

 

[JWaldz]

So here's a thought: have you tried switching the axles side to side? I'm new to this site and the 4runner world but I'm an experienced Jeep guy and used to be an ASE Master Auto tech. Once I couldn't get one of my axles to seat entirely on a Dana 44 and it was because one shaft was 1/4 longer than the other. I was putting them back in the wrong sides. I know it's a 'Yota axle and not a Dana but it's worth a shot if you're still scratching your head over this.

EDIT: so you got it, and I'm late to the game. Good jorb there.

Just putting this out there as future reference for you. The axles are no doubt interchangeable/switchable.. But, once assembled, they're particular to that side because of the ebrake. Now, it IS more than possible to run a driver side assembly on the passenger side and vise-versa but you'll just lose the ebrake. I've done this to get me by after fubarring an axle shaft on the trail. My only spare was for the opposite side. As far as stock axles go, they should all be the same length from the factory and all 3rd gen years no matter elocker housing or not are interchangeable. I mean, this is just from what I've tested through the years. I run a '97 elocker axle (swapped for elocker) in my '99 and I currently have a '99 non elocker passenger side assembly and a '98 elocker driver side assembly. Seem to work just fine (despite the pesky common seal leaks).

 

[Chesshircat]

I read through this post when i was looking for something else. Maybe i can help someone else looking for information. the picture in post #5 showing the abs ring and inner race is an example of exactly how not to do it. they are pressed on way too far. the inner race is there to ride inside the axle seal, in this picture the ring is not even going to contact the seal. the abs ring is pressed over the axle clip holing the outer ring in place. this makes it a real pain in the ass to get off in 6 weeks when the rear end grease starts leaking into the brakes. the inner ring should be roughly 3/16" down from where the polished part on the axle starts.

 

[Renegade_Medic]

I read through this post when i was looking for something else. Maybe i can help someone else looking for information. the picture in post #5 showing the abs ring and inner race is an example of exactly how not to do it. they are pressed on way too far. the inner race is there to ride inside the axle seal, in this picture the ring is not even going to contact the seal. the abs ring is pressed over the axle clip holing the outer ring in place. this makes it a real pain in the ass to get off in 6 weeks when the rear end grease starts leaking into the brakes. the inner ring should be roughly 3/16" down from where the polished part on the axle starts.

My thought exactly. I saw how much of the machined axle there was "above" the last ring and thought, not it's not on too shallow, someone rammed this axle shaft all the way through. way too deep.