cross drilled,slotted rotors
- Thread starter Quint
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
midnight runner
New member
Quint said:
You likely won't have any real perceivable difference. Performance wise, rear changes won't matter much either.
If you want to feel a difference, aggressive front pads, and stainless steel lines will help.
Krazynative
Member
Don't waste your money! Especially for the rear. Most of the braking is done by the front and that is where the cooling would be needed most. Slotted / cross drilled rotors are really only needed for racing conditions where you would notice brake fade.
I agree with Midnight Runner and get SS lines, a more aggressive set of pads and replace your brake fluid with DOT 4 Low moisture. these alone will reduce a lot of fade
Unless you just want that little extra Bling.
I agree with Midnight Runner and get SS lines, a more aggressive set of pads and replace your brake fluid with DOT 4 Low moisture. these alone will reduce a lot of fade
Unless you just want that little extra Bling.
Don't waste your $ on drilled rotors, oem drilled as used on Porsche are not drilled anyway, the holes are cast in then touched up w/ to have a chamfer Additionally the substructure of the rotors is designed for it. They have more of a tendancy to crack than solid or slotted anyway. Most guys that track are abandoning the oem drilled to adopt slotted these days(where they are available)Quint said:
The holes are not for cooling, they are a relic of the days when outgassing from pads was a real issue, w/ modern ceramic/carbon pad compounds thats not a real issue these days.
Holes and slots do help w/ water and such in messy conditions providing additional evacuation paths.
Casper
New member
problem with drilled and slotted rotors is really that you are going to have less surface area for the pad to contact and with that, you loose performance and with less mass, you have less area to dissipate heat from.
I have the Axxis ULT pads F+R and Stoptech stainless lines and this setup is the best I have used in numerous cars.
I have the Axxis ULT pads F+R and Stoptech stainless lines and this setup is the best I have used in numerous cars.
That is correct tooCasper said:
Axxis does have a good line of street performance padsCasper said:
I have mixed feelings about ss lines, I do use them on track cars where the brakes are thouroughly inspected before and after every event, ss can fail catastrophicly and dirt, mud etc does't help them when it gets into the woven interstices. On a street car the stock rubber is perfectly adequate. The main failure mode for rubber, other than being sliced, is internal swelling after years of no maintainance(brake fluid needs to be changed every 2 years at a minimum)
While rotors can warp, by far most instances of rotors diagnosed as 'warped' is really uneven pad deposition.1999sr5 said:
all pads and rotors need to be bedded to each other. If this isn't done carefully the rotors will have stickier and slicker spots, highs and lows which can be felt as pedal pulsations
Quint
New member
I can understand that with the rear rotor upgrade not much difference would be felt, but my rear pads and rotors are pretty shot with 75k on them (daily driver to NYC) so i figured since i am going to change them anyway why not a little upgrade. the rotors and pads cost $311, so to me its a fairly cheap upgrade. although i didnt really research what stock rotors and pads would be, but it cant be too much of a difference (for quality parts)
