Crossmember - Broken Welded Nuts

smallfry

New member
Got a question for you all, I went to take off my transmission skid plate tonight and manage to break 3 of the 4 welded nuts that are inside the crossmember that it fastens too :frusty:. I've taken it off a couple of times before with no issues but this time there was. Am I okay to remove the two supports on either side of the vehicle?



The only way I can see to fix it is to remove/cut the bolts off and then drill new holes up though the cross member and install longer bolts (washer&nut)or a nutsert. Do you guys have recommendations?

Snagged the photo from RCI Metalworks Page, it was the only good one I could find.
 
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Are there any access points that will allow reaching inside the crossmember with a tool or metal rod? My first thought is attempting to wedge against a spinning nut and see if it can be loosened.

My guess is the two supports you are referring to serve as crossmember/ frame stiffeners and should be safe to remove temporarily (crossmember is still supporting the tranny).
 
The CBI armor requires you to remove those completely. I've been to Moab since and have had no issues with it so go ahead and take them off.
 
Those supports have no purpose once you add skid plates back there.. From the factory... they protect the cats.
 
Ok.

What about the broken weld nuts inside the crossmember since the skid bolts up with them?

You just have to fix them LOL..

That entire cross member comes out (it is bolted in).

I would remove it to get the skid off and then weld some new bolts in. That one should be easy since it unbolts. The forward one is a much bigger PITA to fix.

Can't give you step by step as I've never had it off or seen what access is available from above it.... Post some pictures once you get it off as I'm sure this will happen again to others.
 
Wait,,, advice above is a bit misleading. You won't be able to drop the skid with the cross member. It will need to come off first. And you will need to support the trans before removing the cross member..

There are bolts holding it to the trans isolator mount. Highlight in attached picture.

I would still probably remove it to fix it right.. but your call on other techniques.
 

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oh man what a pain in the d1ck....my damn titan did the same sh1t. ended up ditching the skid plate until id use the truck for camping, it rattled non stop just from one bolt not being able to get tight. Id be able to get the bolt started but since the nut wasn't welded, there was no way to tighten it all the way so the skid plate would rattle non stop...If you have room could you just buy a 3" or whatever long bolt and run it all the way through the cross member? assuming theres a hole out the top of it as well.
 
I just went and took a look at it.. It is going to be a PITA for sure.

Nut certs are an option as a quick fix in the holes for the nuts that have lost the welds, but not sure how strong that would be long term. One on each side would be fine... but both is questionable in my mind.

The more permanent fix would be to pull the cross member and see if the limited access from above and side would allow new nuts to be welded in. It looked like this might be difficult. So another option would be to make a small plate with the proper hole spacing and nuts welded on. Then tack weld it in place from the sides or whatever. If you don't have the tools or skills to do this on your own... find a machine/fab shop in the area and they could probably do it pretty cheap.

Final option would be to find one in a junk yard.... or see if they sell that cross member as a part.
 
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Looking at it again this afternoon I think it's either going to a nutsert or pull the crossmember and do something with it but from what I tell trying to welded anything in place would be a pain due to space restrictions.

Think I'm going to go ahead and pull those two supports.
 
Worst case, you can just buy a new cross-member for $180 and bolt it in. If I am looking at the right one. I think it is part number 51204-60210 but you should check with the dealer. Still no fun getting the skid plate and cross member off in the first place though.
 
I was able to salvage the drivers side by working at it a little with my impact and got the bolts out and attempted to install new ones. One threaded in with no problems the other went in but carefully. The passenger side not so much but I figure there is enough material on the top side of the cross member that I should be able to drill up though the existing hole and then install a longer bolt to secure it after looking at it again.
 
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I was able to salvage the drivers side by working at it a little with my impact and got the bolts out and attempted to install new ones. One threaded in with no problems the other went it but carefully. The passenger side not so much but I figure there is enough material on the top side of the cross member that I should be able to drill up though the existing hole and then install a longer bolt to secure it after looking at it again.

Confused, You described it as breaking the welded nuts originally. Did you just strip them? If so, totally different problem with different solutions possible.
 
Confused, You described it as breaking the welded nuts originally. Did you just strip them? If so, totally different problem with different solutions possible.

The weld nuts on the passenger were broken. The one on the driver’s side that I thought was broken apparently wasn’t despite acting in the same manner as the broken ones.
 
The same thing happened to me on the front cross member where the engine and trans skid meet up. I installed a riv nut and it is holding up great.
 
Those supports have no purpose once you add skid plates back there.. From the factory... they protect the cats.

Side note, those round arms that come back are supposed to be removed all together for RCI skids? I still have mine on under the skids and always thought they were stupid to have to stay but was under the impression they were indeed supposed to stay. My problem is currently my exhaust crossover pipe sits right on my skid and vibrates like crazy, drives me nuts. Would pulling those out not just make it worse?
 
Pretty sure similar to a gen4. Support the trans and pull the cross member off, you can access from top side, get some grade 8 nuts and weld them in there place. When you have it off, weld the other nuts some more.

I've had to do them and other areas on mine as they only tack weld these things on.
 
Side note, those round arms that come back are supposed to be removed all together for RCI skids? I still have mine on under the skids and always thought they were stupid to have to stay but was under the impression they were indeed supposed to stay. My problem is currently my exhaust crossover pipe sits right on my skid and vibrates like crazy, drives me nuts. Would pulling those out not just make it worse?

The instructions I have from RCI is that they remain in place.

I'd be curious what the CBI instructions say since they get removed with their skid plates apparently.
 
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