StockyStock
New member
Anyone got custom roof racks? Post em up! I need ideas, my Curt rack is too weak to hold my 33 inch tire without bending and hitting my roof
Custom Roof Racks!
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tS_kStin
Member
Sure do. Based off a Gobi.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/188748-full-length-roof-rack-build.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/188748-full-length-roof-rack-build.html
MarkamisPrime
New member
Thanks for posting this. It's definitely my next project and was looking into what guys have been doing. Instead of shelling out $800 for one made.
Def using this design.
How much do you think it weighs. ?
And about how much weight have you put on it about ?
It looks very stout
ToyTec Lifts
New member
Not sure how they think no one else in the world can use a similar yet different design just because their patent is using factory mounting points..
:wtf:
StockyStock
New member
How'd you mount that up? Weld it? Also, what's the grate called that you used for the bottom? You get that from a metal shop?
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StockyStock
New member
did you weld that to the roof?
StockyStock
New member
That is pretty dumb that you can patent the main, most useful design for that mod.
rkntoy
New member
Exactly. I wish someone would take them on. The factory rack uses the factory mounting points....
tS_kStin
Member
Probably 50-60 pounds? Not totally sure though, but I would bet it is nearly the exact same as a Gobi as the material is the exact same and the size is nearly the same.
I have stood on it with two others and it held us all without flinching. I have only haulled probably around 40lbs up there on a trip though. Usually just firewood and other random things.
The grate is called smooth or flat expanded metal. It does not have any ridges for stuff to get caught on. Yeah I just got it from my local yard that I got the tubing from as well (1inch 16g)
It is mounted to the factory rails that the cross bars were mounted to using the stock sliding nuts inside the channel. I just got some bolts that were the same thread and bolted it down. Then under the feet at the front I just put some gasket maker under the feet. It should show that in the build that I linked to. I believe it is on the second or third page.
GreenbowCounty
New member
Money and the court system. One of the most bizarre documentaries I ever heard was off of This American Life called When Patents Attack. A real eye opener in my opinion.
97t4r81
New member
My homemade aluminum modular rack, from aluminum unistrut from a work van shelves I got free. I found just the right size plastic gasket/spacer that allows the flat stuff to fit the slope of the body. I have other pieces I use as cross bracing for really heavy stuff , plus the convert into my awning poles(ad tarp). I can easily stand on this without roof harm, but they do deflect in the middle when I give it my full weight. I'm planning on adding some cool plastic decking to make it a totally flat full length rack. I've had probably 500 plus pounds up on it(hauled 11, 20' 2x8's). I mainly built to be able to put plywood on. As with my whole truck it's a working progress, needs front feet. Right now I stuff clothes under front rails if I put anything up top. I really like the dring tie downs.
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Mark_BC
Senior Member
I started building my full length rack. I don't have a sunroof so there was no reason to not go the whole way. I also wanted ultra low profile for garage clearance if I get a suspension lift with larger new tires with full tread, plus maybe a 1" body lift, it adds up fast.
It is made of 1/2" conduit that I bent to exactly match the contour of the roof rack rails. it also extends out further to the front and I cut some spare rack rails for it to rest on as a continuation of the stock rails but it isn't working out so well. I think I will find a thick piece of plastic and bend / shape it to the roof contour and use that instead. I will tape it down with two sided 3M VHB tape. I don't like the full length racks you can buy which concentrate all the weight of the front of the rack on two feet, like as shown in a picture further up this thread. I want it spread out over the side rails.
Mine is ultra low profile, sticking up less than 2" above the crest of the roof. It is so low profile that you can't even feed bungees underneath except at the edges by the rails where the roof slopes down.
It is made of 1" square tubing welded to the conduit. This welding was a pain because I had to maintain the exact roof contour and when you weld, it distorts the pieces. I damaged my paint and window with weld spatter so I will need to completely cover the car next time I weld up there. I tacked it on the car and then did the final welding down below on the lawn, then a final bend to shape of the conduit.
It is pretty ugly right now but use your imagination... the next step is welding on a side rail along the edges. I will shave off about 1.5" from each edge because I noticed my mpg go down with it on even though it doesn't make any noise. Currently it is 4' wide.
So it will stay as one layer like that to save height. I will weld on some tabs which will be used to bolt on a cage that sticks up several more inches, which can be put on outside of the garage, when I want to load it up. I'd throw a cover mesh over that then.
The only problem is winter is coming and once there is salt on the road I can't keep it on the roof while unpainted, and it's nowhere near ready to be painted yet...
It is made of 1/2" conduit that I bent to exactly match the contour of the roof rack rails. it also extends out further to the front and I cut some spare rack rails for it to rest on as a continuation of the stock rails but it isn't working out so well. I think I will find a thick piece of plastic and bend / shape it to the roof contour and use that instead. I will tape it down with two sided 3M VHB tape. I don't like the full length racks you can buy which concentrate all the weight of the front of the rack on two feet, like as shown in a picture further up this thread. I want it spread out over the side rails.
Mine is ultra low profile, sticking up less than 2" above the crest of the roof. It is so low profile that you can't even feed bungees underneath except at the edges by the rails where the roof slopes down.
It is made of 1" square tubing welded to the conduit. This welding was a pain because I had to maintain the exact roof contour and when you weld, it distorts the pieces. I damaged my paint and window with weld spatter so I will need to completely cover the car next time I weld up there. I tacked it on the car and then did the final welding down below on the lawn, then a final bend to shape of the conduit.
It is pretty ugly right now but use your imagination... the next step is welding on a side rail along the edges. I will shave off about 1.5" from each edge because I noticed my mpg go down with it on even though it doesn't make any noise. Currently it is 4' wide.
So it will stay as one layer like that to save height. I will weld on some tabs which will be used to bolt on a cage that sticks up several more inches, which can be put on outside of the garage, when I want to load it up. I'd throw a cover mesh over that then.
The only problem is winter is coming and once there is salt on the road I can't keep it on the roof while unpainted, and it's nowhere near ready to be painted yet...
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StockyStock
New member
[QUOTE
Then under the feet at the front I just put some gasket maker under the feet. It should show that in the build that I linked to. I believe it is on the second or third page.[/QUOTE]
That's super smart! I'm definitely gonna have to use this!
Then under the feet at the front I just put some gasket maker under the feet. It should show that in the build that I linked to. I believe it is on the second or third page.[/QUOTE]
That's super smart! I'm definitely gonna have to use this!
