cv axle replacement - etc..

badhabt

badhabt

New member
I'm in t he middle of replacing the driver side cv axle on my 88runnr (first time). I am ready to seperate the tie rod end from the knuckle arm so I can swing the wheel hub out to slide shaft out. So I removed the nut (and pin)from the TRE. I used a rubber mallet to tap on the stud, but it didn't budge. Do I need a pitman arm puller to slide the tie rod stud throu the knuckle arm? I've heard using a pickle bar will wreck ^&*% up.

Any tricks, advice anyone could share?
 
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Yes, you will need a pitman arm to do this...the forks tear your rubber boots sometimes. I picked up 1 at Autozone for ~$14. once I got it on (had to bang a little, tight fit), it was no problem. Just an FYI, you will most likely need an alignment after doing this.

Good luck!
 
i replaced my cv's when i swapped in my 4.88's. i dropped the diff and took apart the hubs and it slid out through the back. i had to move the shock. but it was really easy
 
Awesome, thanks for the quick help!

After I get that taken care of...I'm going to remove ball joint nuts, then lower control arm. Does that sound about right? Once arm is down, I can sway out the wheel hub.

As to "dropping my differential". That sounds interesting, tell me more.

OH yeah, I pulled a snap-spring which looks more like a snap-ring-spring from the inner hub, to release the shaft. I've read that I need to pull a snap-ring, but from the image it looks nothing like the ring I pulled, looks more like a c-ring. I have auto locking hubs (will change that soon) and all the write-ups i found were for manual hubs. looking for clarity.

Thanks,
Jason
 
i unbolted my cv's from the diff, then unbolted the crossmember and dropped the diff out because i had another one to stick in there anyways. when it was out i took the hub apart moved the shock alittle, put a jack under the a arm and made it so the cv was almost parrellel to the ground and pulled it toward the hole where my diff was. if that makes sence. i didnt have to get an alignment that was the best part.
 
Take a long pipe or bar and tap out the 6 studs that hold the CV to the diff. That should allow the back of the CV to drop down so you dont have to take off a ball joint. Then, you can either get new bolts or grind off the spines and put them back in so its easier for next time. Or just put them back in with the spines.
 
Thanks for all the help.

I pulled a spring that rested on top of the clutch in the hub. I jumped the gun and assumed it was the snap-ring which releases the shaft. Now, I see the snap ring, oops. I think I pulled the "preset spring"? Is there any special way to reinstall this spring correctly?

Hyde - I'd like to "tap out the studs" at the diff end, as you suggested. But i have questions. When you say "tap" is that automotive jargon? If the studs are threaded, how do I just "tap" them out? To be clear the "spines" are the welded nuts on the back of the diff? I'm am green to all of this, I don't know all the names for hardware, etc.., I'm learning as I go.

It's funny, I can tear down a house, and rebuild it any way you want. But when it comes to automotive repairs, I'm lost, but eager to learn, and having fun dong it.
 
badhabt said:
Hyde - I'd like to "tap out the studs" at the diff end, as you suggested. But i have questions. When you say "tap" is that automotive jargon?
If the studs are threaded, how do I just "tap" them out? To be clear the "spines" are the welded nuts on the back of the diff? I'm am green to all of this, I don't know all the names for hardware, etc.., I'm learning as I go.
Click to expand...

Carl-Weathers-Happy-Gilmore.1.jpg


Tap as with a hammer. The bolts have splines (like little ridges) in them to stop them from turning on their own. They are not welded to the diff. I say tap them out, as in hit them with a hammer. But since you normally cant get a hammer you have to use a bar. Put one end of the bar on a stud (once the nut has come of), then hit the other end of the bar with the hammer. Make sure to use lock nuts or washers when they go back on.
 
Hyde -

Nice pic, and great movie!

1 - pull the nuts
2 - "tap" out studs
3 - remove spines, or, replace with new set of nuts and bolts (with lock washers).
4 - slide cv axel out from hub

Now that sounds easy. And I like the idea of this job being easier for the next time.

Now to figure out how to put this spring back in it's correct spot.

Thanks
 
IMG_1088.jpg

So here's the spring I pulled (I think it's the "preset" spring?), that I suspect should not have been pulled. It was the first thing I pulled after removing the hub body.

I can get it back in, however, I cant find any info on special installation requirements, alignment, etc..
 

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no worries, I snapped the ring back in. Hope it's right.

I've tapped out 3 studs, and working on the other 3. The cv axel still needs a little more clearance to slide out.

What am I missing here? If I loosen the nut on top of the shock, will that give me a little more clearance? I am assuming this method/mod does not require me to separate the ball joint??
 
The clearance isn't there. All studs have been popped out. the shock, and the tension bar trap the hub end of the axle in.

Guess I'll pull the shock.
 
Well I put it all together, took it for a spin, put in on the freeway, and she's good to go:guitar2:

It took a couple of days (taking it slow), and a few trips to the hardware store, to pull the cv axle, and less than one hour to put it all back together.

Now on to the next project.

Thanks for all the help. T4R.org kicks A$$!!
 
Just a tip (that you probably don't need to know now its all back together) but you can use bolts placed back into the inner joining plate instead of the studs.

Its a 100% quicker for CV axle changes on the trail as you simply unclip one end of the shaft, unbolt the other & slide whole assembly out.

...just in case you ever do it again.
 
Darrie - Thanks for the input ,and the heads up.

So I popped all the studs out and replaced with all new 10.9's, including lock washers, as per Hydes advice.

What I especially like about this particular cv axle removal method/mod is the small amount of work involved. No front end alignment needed. And no messing with the ball joint (as would be the case with some other methods).
 
Thanks, and my apologies for not reading the thread fully and seeing it was already mentioned by Hyde.

You will find if a boot looks a bit dodgey you will be more inclined to change it knowing the shaft assembly is easier to take out. Cheers.
 
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