CV Axles, any upgrades out there?

[runnyrunnerton]

I have replaced these things in the past on previous vehicles so the install looks like it will be a snap. My Runner is a DD and I do moderate weekend wheeling (basically flexing the suspension on pine rows at the ranch) The inner boots on my stockers just blew up after I installed my 3" lift.

Is their an upgrade to do for these new cv axles I'm about to put in? I have seen anything beyond putting a Porsche 930 boot on see article

Im curious, do we just replace them and deal with the joint failure or does someone out there make a better clearance angle or have a solution?

Any help Im curious. I know there are some guys out there with a toytec ultimate some I'm looking to you guys with experience.

 

[maclean216]

here is one:

https://www.rcvperformance.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=37&products_id=83

 

[runnyrunnerton]

$899 per axle.....LOL GULP! :roadkill:

 

[manhunter]

You can install a 1" diff drop to help compensate for the angle on the lift. That will help some, but if you only do light trails, you should not being putting that much stress on the joints. I looked for some upgrade cv axles when I broke my OEM one trying to conquer a rock, and short of doing an SAS, there really was not many options out there.

 

[runnyrunnerton]

I installed a diff drop with the ultimate lift. I guess Im just making sure Im doing everything possible to ease the angle and prevent another double boot blowout down the road.

If theres only gorilla strong vs stock, will the napa cv's do the trick or will they bind at full droop?

 

[LINY4Runner]

Most of the time it's really only the boot that breaks...if you get to it fast enough and replace the boot before water or dirt gets in there, you can salvage the axle and get away with just a $20 boot kit.
In the event of an actual break, especially while wheeling, make sure you thank the wheeling gods that it was your CV that broke. Think about it- if you upgrade your CVs to the strongest ones you can find, then your diff becomes the weakest link. Would you rather spend $49 and 45 minutes doing a CV or $600 and 4 hours doing a front differential? The beauty of the CV shafts is that they are the weakest link, and they're a breeze to change. Carry an extra axle or two with you, that's what I do.

As for your current situation, get a boot kit and rebuild them b!tches!

 

[maclean216]

For the sake of discussion, I would upgrade.

How many people have actually broken an OEM CV and were not at full droop and/or full lock on steering? I highly doubt that if I had the upgraded axles my diff would have suffered damage when I broke my outer CV joints.

 

[LINY4Runner]

For the sake of discussion, I would upgrade.

How many people have actually broken an OEM CV and were not at full droop and/or full lock on steering? I highly doubt that if I had the upgraded axles my diff would have suffered damage when I broke my outer CV joints.

For the sake of discussion, what do you think will break instead, if you run stronger CV axles?

I've already grenaded my spider gears- and my original CVs at 160k miles are still in tact. So I'm not willing to take the chance. I can bang out a CV shaft in the middle of a trail in less than a half hour. 6- 21mm, 4- 14mm, 1- 35mm a hammer and a pry bar.

 

[jsmarine]

I agree with LINY, you need a weak link and the CV's are it. Think of CV's like fuses in electrical wiring; the fuse is the weak link, and designed to break rather than fry your electrical system when there is a short.

 

[maclean216]

I don't have spider gears, I have a tru trac.

For the sake of discussion, what do you think will break instead, if you run stronger CV axles?

I've already grenaded my spider gears- and my original CVs at 160k miles are still in tact. So I'm not willing to take the chance. I can bang out a CV shaft in the middle of a trail in less than a half hour. 6- 21mm, 4- 14mm, 1- 35mm a hammer and a pry bar.

Then why did your spider gears break first instead of your CVs?

 

[cordrayj1]

cv's def make a big difference. i had one's from Parks Auto, and the splined portion of the shaft that goes into the diff on the drivers side twisted completely off on my last offroad trip. the ole tire spin . . .STOP . . .BANG . . . F*^&. ended up having to drill into the center of the cv shaft that was left inside the diff, then had to tap it, then had to get a bolt to pull out the remaining portion of the shaft. VERY expensive mistake (had to get my mechanic to do it). but he said it turned out alot better than it could have (spiders or something internal in the diff - - -since that thing is such a pain to get apart).

 

[Jon]

I'm on my 4th CV in need of replacement since my lift in Sep. They''re under warranty so no biggie just a pain to change as often as they're calling for. They're the Advance Auto CV's and the axle shafts and joints seem to hold up just fine. It's the inner boots that I'm destroying and then of course mud and water getting into the joint is what ends up taking the joints themselves out. So on #4 CV axle now and the boot tore and slung all the grease out. Now it's tightly wrapped in a plastic bag and zip-ties, has been for over a month now and still holding strong with hard wheeling every weekend and daily driving.

 

[99runnerwa]

CVJ will build you upgraded cv axles. They will build it with what you from upgraded boots to upgraded joints

 

[jstim]

So I'm buying a set of used CV axles, going to regrease them and clean them up, but is there any differences in the CVs I should know about before hand?