CV Boot replacement question

[1985taylor1925]

Both of my inner cv boots have been ripped for a while now. It seems that there tearing was associated with my lift. I guess just the combo of them being old and weathered plus the added stress of the cv angle from the lift. Have any of you had the same issue?

Anyways, I have found three basic types of boots. A complete boot, a boot with one cut, and a boot but into two halves. I guess with the cut ones you apply an adhesive which binds and seals the rubber slit. But to me this doesnt seem like the most reliable thing. Im guessing if the added cv angle tore my solid boots then it will probable tear the adhesive binding quickly on the slit boots. So I would prefer to put on a solid boot, but I dont know how difficult this would be. The only way to do it is by detaching one side of the cv axel right?

So how many of you have replaced cv boots? Which of the three types did you use? And how difficult would it be to do the solid boot?

As always, the expertise from you guys is invaluable. Thanks!

 

[GX4SEVEND]

Just replace the entire cv. You can get remans from an auto parts store for like $70 each with a lifetime warranty

 

[gannonrt]

Just replace the entire cv. You can get remans from an auto parts store for like $70 each with a lifetime warranty

I'm not aware of an auto parts store that offers remans but I agree that reman is the way to go. I know advance auto carries a GTP brand that I used when I broke my CV. I've had it in for 6 months and it looks rougher than my OE one on the other side. I've also seen a few threads on here with lower tier brands breaking in the front diff during off roading. I wish I had not used the advance auto one. I'd recommend purchasing a reman from CVJ axles in Colorado. Their website is here. CVJ Axles - Remanufactured Axles & Power Racks. You get a credit when you send your axle back to them.

 

[GX4SEVEND]

Here in Oregon O'reileys sells them for $70 with no core deposit.

 

[1985taylor1925]

Why would you guys recommend replacing the entire cv assembly unless mine is damaged? I dont use my 4x4 that often as my runner is my daily driver and Im not living in the mountains any more. But I used it several times this past winter and never had any problems with it. Its just the boots that are torn causing grease to spray out. The grease is really clean

 

[GX4SEVEND]

Well at $70 it's almost the same price and less work

 

[im4u2nvss]

I like the idea of re-booting your OEM CV's. I know that back in my Honda days, reman CV's(from NAPA, Baxters, Exc) were garbage and failed much faster then OEM.

 

[GSPRunner]

In the same boat as you. Just lifted mine last week and my inner CV boots tore within a day. 12 year old rubber and the added stress of a lift I guess.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Replace the entire CV if the grease has been puking out because they will bite the farm sooner than later.

If you have managed to keep the grease in the joint, then remove the old inner boot and replace it with a new one. Toyota offers a boot kit. Repack the grease. Put new clips on both sides of the inner boot.

Having done both, I'd opt for the former to make it drivable, and then just reboot one of your OEMs to carry as a spare.

 

[1985taylor1925]

Replace the entire CV if the grease has been puking out because they will bite the farm sooner than later.

If you have managed to keep the grease in the joint, then remove the old inner boot and replace it with a new one. Toyota offers a boot kit. Repack the grease. Put new clips on both sides of the inner boot.

Having done both, I'd opt for the former to make it drivable, and then just reboot one of your OEMs to carry as a spare.

Again I dont feel the need to replace my entire cvs as I dont think theyve been damaged as a result of this. For changing just the inner boot, how difficult is that to do? Do you have any experience with the split boots?

 

[LittleCaesar]

Pull out the CV, remove the outer boot, there is a clip holding the joint on the shaft, remove it and the joint, then remove the inner boot.

Once the inner boot is on, put the joint back on, then pack it with grease, and the rest is the reverse of what one had to do to remove the CV.

My friend's uncle did mine back in 08, except he made me pack the grease, which, even with gloves on, I still had grease residue on my hands a week later. In 2010, both OEM CVs were replaced with ones from Oreilys, which I wish I had done in the first place.

 

[Hepar]

Again I dont feel the need to replace my entire cvs as I dont think theyve been damaged as a result of this. For changing just the inner boot, how difficult is that to do? Do you have any experience with the split boots?

You can do just the boot, but like the others have said, it's more work and a lot more messy. If it was a big difference in money, I could understand rebooting, but since the price is pretty similar, I'd just put in new CV's. The grease is a mess.

 

[1985taylor1925]

Well Im still trying to figure out what to do here. Ive looked at cv's from autozone, orielys, and napa. They sell remanufactured cv's as well as their individual lines of new cv's. The new ones are all 100 or more, and the reman all require a core. Orielys sells reman for 60 with a 100 core. Napas are 53 with a 111 core.

Thing is, I honestly dont trust remanufactured parts as I have never had a good experience with them. But I dont know about the OE brands either. My main concern right now is cost. If I get new cv's I would probably go with Napas Max Drive which would be 220, which I dont want to spend right now. And as far as I know theres nothing wrong with my current cv's other than the inner boots being torn. Im not really concerned about the work as I have the time right now. And two inner boots would cost 40. Were talking about saving 180 for the time being. What do you guys think? I think Im just trying to justify my reasoning to just get the boots and save the money.

 

[Jack08520]

Ripped CV boots

After doing the toyotec lift on my 2002 I'm now also noticing grease coming out the ends of the boots. Question - if you replace the CV and boot will this remedy the problem - or will it just come back because of the angle? Does anyone offer "extended range" boots?

 

[nevada]

replace the entire axle.
the joint is trashed.
if the boot has been torn for a while, there has been dirt, and other trash getting into there, grinding between the parts.
its quite a bit of work, just to put a boot on a worn out joint.

and just about every auto parts place will sell a reman axle. some are now even offering NEW axles.

 

[nevada]

Well Im still trying to figure out what to do here. Ive looked at cv's from autozone, orielys, and napa. They sell remanufactured cv's as well as their individual lines of new cv's. The new ones are all 100 or more, and the reman all require a core. Orielys sells reman for 60 with a 100 core. Napas are 53 with a 111 core.

Thing is, I honestly dont trust remanufactured parts as I have never had a good experience with them. But I dont know about the OE brands either. My main concern right now is cost. If I get new cv's I would probably go with Napas Max Drive which would be 220, which I dont want to spend right now. And as far as I know theres nothing wrong with my current cv's other than the inner boots being torn. Im not really concerned about the work as I have the time right now. And two inner boots would cost 40. Were talking about saving 180 for the time being. What do you guys think? I think Im just trying to justify my reasoning to just get the boots and save the money.

ive changed a metric ****ton of axles. very rarely do we have a problem with a reman. and if/when we do, its prior to install, and easily remedied. i think ive ever only had ONE axle come back for a problem.

 

[1985taylor1925]

Has anyone used napas max drive cv's?

 

[Track34]

No way I would just go and replace the whole CV axle. I would buy the boot with the expectation to change just that. When you have it all apart you can see and feel for yourself if it needs to be replaced. If that's the case, you can just return the boot.

Anyone saying it would be saving time to just buy new axles has probably never done a boot before. You can do them in literally 5 minutes.

 

[1985taylor1925]

No way I would just go and replace the whole CV axle. I would buy the boot with the expectation to change just that. When you have it all apart you can see and feel for yourself if it needs to be replaced. If that's the case, you can just return the boot.

Anyone saying it would be saving time to just buy new axles has probably never done a boot before. You can do them in literally 5 minutes.

5 minutes?? Please elaborate . . .

 

[PNWRunner]

Ive heard some horror stories about Napa, vatozone, orielly, etc... axles breaking off at the groove where the snatch ring sits inside the differential. I cant imagine trying to get that out is harder than changing a boot. Ive busted a OEM shaft right in the middle from poor driving while I was wheeling, but never inside the diff.

If you dont wheel your rig hard, just get the some remans with a lifetime warranty (yes that includes the boot) and change them out every time your boot breaks. Problem solved.

I beat the piss out of mine at least once a month, so I buy used OEM CV's and either reboot them or run them till the puke.

My opinion, OEM is the way to go. The grease that came out of my first torn boot with 200k+ miles looked fairly new, the joints don't get "worn out". Reboot with the boot slide mod and you'll be better of than running some junky discount parts store CV.