CV replacement, now have a knock/clunk

[2StepsAhead]

So brief history: I bought new wheel bearings/axles/lower control arms/seals/etc, my control arm bolts are frozen so I couldnt even budge them. Replaced the axles, bearings and the spindle seals without too much issue.

Took it for a drive and got huge clunks, turned out I didn't torque the control arm that I tried to remove. Ok cool. Took it for a longer ride...started to get some clunking again. So I came home and hit every bolt I touched...but I found this:



My picture isnt too good, but the top pic shows how the metal lip on the axle is flush with the diff and the bottom pic shows how the metal lip on the axle is a hair out of the axle.

So I took apart the driver's side completely, gave it a few taps and it seated like the other side...flush/inside the diff and re-installed and torqued everything down.

Went to work today and guess what, clunk. Very slight, I really have to jump on the brakes hard to get the sound...so I just got home and noticed the driver's side metal lip was back out a hair.

Anyone think that small variance is my issue? Part of me thinks maybe I didnt torque something and when I tapped the axle in I hit everything well enough and maybe it came loose on the ride to work, part of me says theres an issue why that lip wont sit inside the diff like the other side.

 

[txbonds]

Isn't that metal lip your talking about just a dust shield? If that's what I'm seeing I doubt that is your issue.

 

[bob3dsf]

Yea, that's the dust shield. I looks alright. Here's a link to another thread about CV axle replacement. Post #56 on pg 4 is a pic of my driver's side. I used a caliper to get a measurement to compare. When I did mine I did the drivers 1st and couldn't get to the passenger until a week or two later so I compared how my DS looked compared to the stock PS. Whatever slop there might be in the fit it can't be that big of an issue so long as the snap ring seats into the diff. When you pop it in, it either goes in or it doesn't. However I haven't noticed mine moving... ???

Linky to other thread:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/101038-how-install-new-cv-axles-4.html

Is your an OEM or NAPA, etc?

I'd ask if your axle nut is seated and torqued, but I don't think that would contribute as there is lateral movement in the inner housing/joint anyway to account for suspension flex, etc.

You said you experience it after hard braking? I agree this might not be your culprit. I'd investigate something else especially since you said you replaced several other parts of the IFS

 

[2StepsAhead]

Yeah my concern is that maybe it didn't seat properly and that snap ring isn't all the way in. It seems so close, I'm going to take it back apart tomorrow I guess and see if I can give it a few more taps and see if it wasn't seated but its hard to tell since I'm smacking it, never felt it pop in on either side honestly. I figured there would be a tell tale sign if I didn't get it all the way in.

As for the axle its a cardone from rock auto and I torqued the axle nut to 173 ft lbs. just can't imagine why it went from flush to not flush unless I didn't pop that ring?

 

[4gin007]

not sure why it would go from flush to not flush either but i would say if its not leaking then its in all the way. Also when your driving the axle in, you can feel and hear a considerable change in the feel and sound when the axle bottoms out or is in all the way. I would inspect everything else and if your concerned about the axle not being in all the way keep an eye for any fluid to leak out as you drive it in between working on it.

 

[Greydog]

No, there is some small play in the axle after its installed. Both of mine wiggle in and out just a rad like in your pic.

My guess is the clunking is the lower control arms or upper ball joint play?
They definitely make noise when worn out, especially if the bolts are not super tight.

Double check the caliper bolts are tight and the pads are installed properly?

 

[2StepsAhead]

My control arms upper and lower are definitely worn, just didnt notice any clunk before I did the install so I wonder if its a coincidence or if the axle not being as 'loose' is making a new noise come about? Theres definitely no leaking from the seals so I guess that means its in there? Maybe Ill give it a few love taps tomorrow just in case though.

 

[2StepsAhead]

Click the pic for a link to the video. Ill try and point the camera somewhere else in a little and see if I can pinpoint the area.

Ok,...so I hit all the bolts for the caliper/lca with an impact...still getting a knock. Problem is its extremely hard to replicate, I can only do it by sawing the wheel back and forth the first time I start it up...once it makes the initial knock I have to move the truck and let it sit for awhile. I can also replicate it by jumping on the brakes hard on the highway.

What concerns me is I didnt have the noise before the cv replacement, so Im wondering if theres something wrong with the cv install or maybe since the cv isnt loose anymore something else is taking the slack? Binding? Not sure here.

 

[MarkinWMich]

I posted that link you wanted on my cv axle thread.

I agree with the others, that it probably is not your new cv axle...even with the movement it has. I was really concerned about this, as you are, but everything seems to be fine. There is supposed to be some movement. I am NOT used to having ANYTHING loose on my vehicles, but I guess in this case, it is supposed to be a little loose.

I would recheck your fasteners. Did you have to disconnect your tie rod end and front sway bar link from the steering knuckle to install the cv axle?

In July, I did a complete suspension rebuild. Every week, or so, I would find new noises developing, and I would be under the 4Runner, retightening things. The suspension settles and things vibrate. I think I retightened things 3 times before everything settled out and was quiet.

 

[2StepsAhead]

I posted that link you wanted on my cv axle thread.

I agree with the others, that it probably is not your new cv axle...even with the movement it has. I was really concerned about this, as you are, but everything seems to be fine. There is supposed to be some movement. I am NOT used to having ANYTHING loose on my vehicles, but I guess in this case, it is supposed to be a little loose.

I would recheck your fasteners. Did you have to disconnect your tie rod end and front sway bar link from the steering knuckle to install the cv axle?

In July, I did a complete suspension rebuild. Every week, or so, I would find new noises developing, and I would be under the 4Runner, retightening things. The suspension settles and things vibrate. I think I retightened things 3 times before everything settled out and was quiet.

Didnt touch the tie rods or the sway bar links, Im waiting on the moog greaseable cam bolts so I can eliminate the lca's as a noise...just very frustrating since Im a suspension whore on my other vehicles and this was finally a vehicle that didnt have clunks and knocks lol.

Sounds like something is binding, its so weird that the first time I saw the wheel itll knock and then I cant replicate the sound. Im going to check throughout the day and see if I can at least pin point where the knock is...or else when I do the lca's Im going to take the axle back out and grease everything and re-tq I guess.

 

[Brutalguyracing]

Yeah my concern is that maybe it didn't seat properly and that snap ring isn't all the way in. It seems so close, I'm going to take it back apart tomorrow I guess and see if I can give it a few more taps and see if it wasn't seated but its hard to tell since I'm smacking it, never felt it pop in on either side honestly. I figured there would be a tell tale sign if I didn't get it all the way in.

As for the axle its a cardone from rock auto and I torqued the axle nut to 173 ft lbs. just can't imagine why it went from flush to not flush unless I didn't pop that ring?

for your cv its either in or its out...highly doubt its your cv
go in dirt drive in tight circles.....clicking , popping, grinding, ect that would likely be a cv
i am going with lca's

No, there is some small play in the axle after its installed. Both of mine wiggle in and out just a rad like in your pic.

My guess is the clunking is the lower control arms or upper ball joint play?
They definitely make noise when worn out, especially if the bolts are not super tight.

Double check the caliper bolts are tight and the pads are installed properly?

agreed lca's
just did my whole front end this weeknd
everything new
see my post in what u did to today
lol
3 hours for just the lca's

Didnt touch the tie rods or the sway bar links, Im waiting on the moog greaseable cam bolts so I can eliminate the lca's as a noise...just very frustrating since Im a suspension whore on my other vehicles and this was finally a vehicle that didnt have clunks and knocks lol.

Sounds like something is binding, its so weird that the first time I saw the wheel itll knock and then I cant replicate the sound. Im going to check throughout the day and see if I can at least pin point where the knock is...or else when I do the lca's Im going to take the axle back out and grease everything and re-tq I guess.

hope you ordered lca bushings with he moogs alignment bolts

 

[2StepsAhead]

for your cv its either in or its out...highly doubt its your cv
go in dirt drive in tight circles.....clicking , popping, grinding, ect that would likely be a cv
i am going with lca's

agreed lca's
just did my whole front end this weeknd
everything new
see my post in what u did to today
lol
3 hours for just the lca's


hope you ordered lca bushings with he moogs alignment bolts

I have new complete moog lca's to go in. Dreading the cutting lol.

The only reason I didnt think it was the lca's because I had no knock before the cv's, they definitely wont knock when I drive in circles...it only happens the first time I move the steering wheel or if I slam the brakes hard on the highway.

The first time I found the lca loose it was when I would back up with the wheel cut, you could hear it pop everytime and my friend said the lca would shake...this time its not as noticeable both visually and audio wise.

 

[Brutalguyracing]

i have new complete moog lca's to go in. Dreading the cutting lol.

The only reason i didnt think it was the lca's because i had no knock before the cv's, they definitely wont knock when i drive in circles...it only happens the first time i move the steering wheel or if i slam the brakes hard on the highway.

The first time i found the lca loose it was when i would back up with the wheel cut, you could hear it pop everytime and my friend said the lca would shake...this time its not as noticeable both visually and audio wise.

tips
you can use a grinder for the front and rear facing side of the cam bolts
cut right behind the washers.....u may have to finish with sawzall then for the 2 inners let the lca drop / hang down cut as much as possible with grinder , then finish with sawzall
i find lenox blades or the diablo blades work best
don't go full speed with sawzall and use cutting oil or pb often to cool / lube blades
take breaks and be care full not to nick the inner tre boots or cv's or such
took me 3 hours start to finish....not terrible
every one of mine were completely frozen 'shocking"
make sure lub all parts before hand and anti seize to prevent this from happening again
19mm for lca bolts (2) and 19mm for lower shock mount
new bolts are a 22mm and a 24mm

THIS WOULD BE A GREAT TIME TO THOROUGHLY GO THROUGH YOUR ENTIRE FRONT END BUSHING BJ'S AND TRE'S