CV shaft removal 2004 V6

I'm replacing a CV shaft on the drivers side and I can not get the stub out of the diff. I was prying hard enough that I worried about cracking the case. I don't have a slide hammer, I'm getting one today. I was worried it had a c-clip some how, but there's no cover to take off to get at it. Two questions: Will a slide hammer remove this? If I can't get it off, the other 2 links are out of the CV shaft. Can I drive this to a mechanics with just the stub shaft in the diff housing? I was worried the ABS would go ape all the way there.

I tried using the search engine, strange I got nothing for CV. Are they called something else like propeller shafts?
 
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I'm replacing a CV shaft on the drivers side and I can not get the stub out of the diff. I was prying hard enough that I worried about cracking the case. I don't have a slide hammer, I'm getting one today. I was worried it had a c-clip some how, but there's no cover to take off to get at it. Two questions: Will a slide hammer remove this? If I can't get it off, the other 2 links are out of the CV shaft. Can I drive this to a mechanics with just the stub shaft in the diff housing? I was worried the ABS would go ape all the way there.

I tried using the search engine, strange I got nothing for CV. Are they called something else like propeller shafts?

CV AXLE: Replacement and repair w/ pics - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
 
I tried a slide hammer and couldnt get it to work worth a crap. I ended up using a pry bar and resting the end on the lip in the notches around the diff side the the CV. then used a BFH to tap on the end of the pry bar. Popped right out.
 
If all else fails and you need to drive to a shop don't worry about the ABS. It'll through the dummy light but once you reinstall the shaft and drive a few miles it'll reset itself
 
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Thanks NJ, I think I was limiting it to this forum. That's basically what I followed except I removed the bottom ball joint and pulled it out that way. I had a pry bar in between the CV & housing and was kicking as hard as I could. Crappy thing is now the CV looks ok, just the boot was torn, grease wasn't even real milky, just was slowly getting flung out.
 
Thanks NJ, I think I was limiting it to this forum. That's basically what I followed except I removed the bottom ball joint and pulled it out that way. I had a pry bar in between the CV & housing and was kicking as hard as I could. Crappy thing is now the CV looks ok, just the boot was torn, grease wasn't even real milky, just was slowly getting flung out.

This is real common with lifted trucks. Its easier to change the whole CV. taking them apart to replace the boots is a PITA and saves you very little money. With New CVs you get a life time warranty, so when the boots crap out again, you can just pull them out and take them in for replacements.

In the tutorial posted. You see the lip where he has the slide hammer hooked in. place the pointy tip of your pry bar on that lip and then tap the other end with a hammer.
 
I don't quite understand what you're trying to do? When we do them at work, we just leave the stub shaft (the one with the long chamber for the inner CV joint) in and reinstall the boot when we go to put it all back together. Its a much easier way of doing it.
 

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