Cv swap tool list and while your in there items

theizzardking

New member
So I was just reading the write up and in the middle of a remodel on my garage so am using a buddies drive way this weekend to swap out both axles so I need to take.what I need up there, also thought it would be good to know for an on the trail tool kit, also since I have all of this stuff off what else should I do, any seals or clips I should pick up also what kind of grease is best ?

So far on my list I have
35Mm socket
200 ft, lbs torque wrench
Some sort of snap ring pliers (what size and kind)
13Mm socket
Grease gun
floor jack
Jack stands
Bfh, dead blow

I feel like im missing a few things ,.like screw drivers and what not , never done this before so am unsure of the tricks of the trade , got any cool little tricks as well ?
 
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no need for snap ring plies. the snap rings dont put up much of a fight. regular pliers will do the trick.
no need for a grease gun... just have some grease to lube the splines when putting the new axles in
no need for the BFH... a rubber mallet and a regular hammer do just fine
if you cant find a 35mm 1-03/8" fits perfect as well.
definitely a breaker bar and sockets 12-19. i cant remember but a 14 and 17 ring a bell,.. i just did it this past weekend.... super easy job. first side took me 2 hours of slowly learning. second side took 25 minutes.

pb blast the four bolts under the lower ball joint the night before to play it safe
 
Cool, thanks for the info , do I need to worry about diff oil as well , and what happens to all of the yellow grease that was packed in there before my boots split? Should I replace all of that some how ? Sound like the grease is used to help the slip fit more so then lubrication, but my cvs spit out loads and loads of grease , dont I need to repack that some how ? Just asking because there my be more damage in there then what I'm expecting to find , been running cvs with no grease for about 4k miles and just stated clicking , how bad off do you guys think I am ,
 
heres what i did.
similar situation for me.
went to napa and got refurbished toyota cv's. they were $57/ each side. (with core return)
they come rebooted, regreased. i wouldnt bother with a new boot kit if theyre clicking... id go with all new axles.

as for the diff oil... a tiny amount came out. not enough to worrk about adding more.
 
I would add:
14mm socket for lbj bolts
Blue thread locker for above
Grease for the outer spline
Prybar or crowbar
Read the 4x4wire write up. It tells you what you need.
Yes its 35mm not 36mm.
 
1) One or two large pry bars/flathead screw drivers are helpful to remove and install the CVs.
2) The LBJ bolts are 14mm.
3) You might want to replace the cotter pins when you re-install.
4) You'll need some threadlock for the LBJ bolts.
5) my CV/diff tube seal started to leak shortly after CV axle replacement. You may want to replace those while you're in there....and make sure you install the passenger side correctly. There is no stop in the diff tube to indicate it's seated all the way. Correct depth is 5.5mm from outer edge of diff tube.

A good link is this one

Hope this helps.
 
It's good to have spare gear oil with you anyways, but usually only a little bit of gear oil will leak out (unless you're not on level ground). A med-sized crowbar makes popping the CV out of the diff easier too.

All that grease that leaked out of your old CVs won't affect your new ones, they will come pre-packed with grease. If you want to save your old CVs, you can repack them with grease and reboot them and you'll have a coupe of spare CVs for the trail. Don't worry about driving on CVs with shredded boots. I did it for several months in the winter, driving in snow with no boots or grease left on my CVs and they never broke. Your diff is fine.

There's a wheel bearing dust seal on the inside of each hub that you may want to replace. Besides that, I think you got it covered.
 
It's good to have spare gear oil with you anyways, but usually only a little bit of gear oil will leak out (unless you're not on level ground). A med-sized crowbar makes popping the CV out of the diff easier too.

All that grease that leaked out of your old CVs won't affect your new ones, they will come pre-packed with grease. If you want to save your old CVs, you can repack them with grease and reboot them and you'll have a coupe of spare CVs for the trail. Don't worry about driving on CVs with shredded boots. I did it for several months in the winter, driving in snow with no boots or grease left on my CVs and they never broke. Your diff is fine.

There's a wheel bearing dust seal on the inside of each hub that you may want to replace. Besides that, I think you got it covered.

Great so good to know will snag a pry bar and some seals, think I may change the diff oil anyways as it's been a while , thanks a ton fellas , if it turns in to a pita it won't be due to lack info from you guys , it'll just be me sucking haha
 
o ya cv's are super easy pop the wheel off the black cap and the big nut the lower bj bolts tap out out of the hub pry it out pop in a new one
 
Make sure to note the orientation of the snap ring on the end when putting the CV back in. A 12 inch pry bar does the trick in removing them. The 4x4 link is great if you run into any problems.

I will say that when my friend and I put in a reman CV from Advanced in his 4runner, the new nut was a 36mm, not a 35mm, so you may want to check the size of the nut before ya leave the store or have a 36mm socket handy just in case.
 
I will say that when my friend and I put in a reman CV from Advanced in his 4runner, the new nut was a 36mm, not a 35mm, so you may want to check the size of the nut before ya leave the store or have a 36mm socket handy just in case.

Hmmm, that's kind of important...
 

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