Dead on Driveway, New MAF-Now what? Help!!

[97fun4x4runner]

I'm starting this new post in hopes of getting some more input to get my rig back on the road. For lengthier reading, please refer to Skidpalace's thread:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...r-left-me-dead-road-please-help-diagnose.html
Basically, my rig died while driving home one night at about 65mph, as if it just flooded out. When I tried to start it again, it would start, hit about 1500rpm, and then die in about 10-15 seconds. I had to get it towed home($65), and it sits in the driveway currently.
What I've done:
-Replaced battery (was under warranty, so figured, wth..)
-Cleaned Mass Air Flow Sensor
-Replaced Mass Air Flow Sensor (1997 model is a $800 Denso part, or what I did, bought Aftermarket $213 at Autozone)
-Replaced Air Filter
--Codes were scanned: P0100 and P0110 codes, indicating MAF or A/F sensor problem.
Vehicle will start, but effectively 'floods' out in about 5-20 seconds and dies.
Spark doesn't seem to be the problem. So am assuming it must be fuel delivery/emission control.
Is there a flow chart, or recommended next step? I'm running low on funds already, sacrificing new tire set money for fixing this--what good are new tires, if I can't get it back on the road as it is my daily driver.
The new A/F sensor will be around $150..it's kind of like going to the dentist at this point. Can it be anything else in your opinion besides the A/F sensor? Maybe the cat converter, or even something as lowly as the fuel filter?
Many thanks in advance for your input!

 

[brian2sun]

Fuel pressure test.

 

[rdgt4r]

Fuel pressure test.

X2 it sounds like a delivery problem to me.

 

[Mr. Leary]

x3. Fuel problem. Also, if the cat goes bad, it will usually idle just fine, but bog down when you get on the throttle.

 

[97fun4x4runner]

test on driveway?

Wow..thanks for the quick response~!
How would I perform a pressure test on the driveway?
What items in particular would you suspect / replace A-Z? Cost is a concern at this pt, so maybe cheapest to highest? (I know that's a trap..heh)
Thanks again~!

 

[rdgt4r]

I would change the Fuel filter first then check the pump is what id do, they sell fuel pressure gauges if you need it or take it somewhere to have if performed.

I know the fuel filter is a shot in the dark, kind of but thats a cheap part and is doable by yourself.


this has some information
http://www.automedia.com/Fuel_Pump_Pressure_Test/ccr20080201fp/1

 

[brian2sun]

Fuel filter, test fuel pressure regulator, test fuel pump, injectors.

 

[brian2sun]

You could always crack the bolts on your fuel rail and see if there's any fuel/pressure in there. If you loosen a banjo bolt and no fuel drips out, it's not making it to yuor engine.

 

[JeremyH]

Both of those codes relate to the air intake (100 is a bad MAF, 110 is bad temp sensor). I would take the MAF back to the parts store and tell them it's bad.

Also, what do the electrical connectors for both of these look like? Are they in good shape? I would pull them both, spray them with contact cleaner, then apply some dielectric grease in the female ends.

After that, I would look into the more expensive alternatives mentioned above....fuel filter, pump and pressure test (not really expensive)...

 

[kregg]

My truck did this too me also. Ended up being the fuel filter. Have you tried to start it again? I had my truck towed to a shop, I thought the timing belt had broken, he called me the next day and said that the truck started and ran fine. Replaced the fuel filter and haven't looked back since.

 

[97fun4x4runner]

fuel filter, etc

Thanks again for quick responses.
I'll have my neighbor run the scanner on rig again once he's home. Those two codes were gotten pre-purchase of 'new' aftermarket MAF sensor.
Autozone already sent my core/old one back, and it's a 2 day wait for a replacement of their unit, if defective. I'm going on the assumption that the problem is not with the replacement MAF sensor, at least until I get new codes, address other possible issues.
Since I've already dumped ~$300 into this fix, another $20 for a fuel filter won't kill me--wife might, but not the filter!
edit 1/25/2010:
Ok..problem is solved. Turns out that I had bad gas...put 5 gallons new gas in, and it started right up. Scanner coded as no problem prior to new gas...so either it really did have a bad MAF, or the sensor was working properly, and coded bad sensor since the engine was receiving lousy signal from cheap/bad gas. I'm out $200 for new sensor, but at 225k miles..it was probably just a matter of time.
Many thanks to everyone for their assistance! Hopefully someone will benefit from my trial and error, as well as the great suggestions from this community. It's a beacon of light here, versus dazed and confused looks from 'helpful assistants' at the neighborhood parts store.
Be well.