Dealer wants $2400 to fix timing cover leak....
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Flyingbread1
New member
I have a 2006 Sport Edition V6 with the same issue. Got the same price quote from dealer too. It appeared at 120000 miles. I am now at 140000 and it is no worse. I wipe it clean after every oil change to monitor it, oil level is good every time. It is my understanding that the timing chain area is not under pressure so if the leak is not very bad then you can just monitor it over time. If it is leaking bad enough to be dripping down that is a different issue. There was a recall done that covered this under warranty but it most likely won't cover you now. $2k is a lot to spend so I will try some JB Weld or high temp silicone if it gets worse.
We have engine builders in the area that provide rebuild toyo v8 for $2500. Obviously you have the added expense of install. But going this route gets you 0 miles on the clock as well as resolving your oil leak.
I have 127k and need to get timing belt replaced. But with estimates of 1k....I might just save up $1500 more and swap out the entire engine.
Just a thought.
I have 127k and need to get timing belt replaced. But with estimates of 1k....I might just save up $1500 more and swap out the entire engine.
Just a thought.
They are great engines but I wouldn't say they run forever. If I was faced with 1k replacement I would definitely pay an additional $1500 to have a zero mileage engine again.
But Im a DIYer. So when the weather cools down. I'll change it myself.
BrianSD_42
New member
BlackWorksInc
New member
Welcome to the cost of owning a timing chain motor. You may be able to find a bit cheaper place on the labor, but you're still probably talking around the $1500~2000 range with an independent shop (you didn't say whether or not the cover itself is being quoted in the price, I assume it isn't since I think the dealership wants something like $800 for just the cover portion.) The front timing cover on a Timing Chain engine is more labor intensive than a timing belt motor and typically reflects that with a higher labor cost (though a comparatively lower amount of times it should/needs to be resealed/serviced when compared to a timing belt motor.)
You're basically removing the oil pan, the front of the engine, all associated components, then reassembling, and resealing all that back up. This means an oil change, coolant flush, probably a water pump wouldn't be a bad option since its coming off anyways, FIPG (Form In Place Gasket) for sealing, checking the components under the cover, ect. While you've got the cover off it would not be a bad idea to have the timing chain inspected for stretching/wear as you should be doing that after about 100k (they do stretch/wear over time and that means new chain, guides, gears, ect. but usually that's in the 200k~300k+ range)
Its on the more expensive side for a timing chain reseal (It is dealer pricing after all), but be glad you don't have a 2GR-FE (3.5L V6) transverse engine where the entire engine has to be dropped to do the job (even more labor.) This is the inherited cost of a timing chain motor, longer service intervals for some components, but very expensive in labor and cost when they do wear out.
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Post Note-
Switching over to a 2UZ-FE (4.7L V8) will be a bit more difficult as you will need an ECM as well as an immobilizer module (I don't know if you can seed a 1GR-FE (4.0L V6) Immobilizer for a 2UZ-FE ECM, depends on how lenient Toyota was in that department), the 4WD module may not like the 2UZ-FE module also (I haven't heard anyone try and put the Part-Time 4WD set-up in a V8 so I can't say how well it'd work), as well as some of the other associated components (these are more bits and parts like having new mounts made if needed, hoses, fittings, wiring, ect.) In the end while the motor would be about $2500, the ancillary costs would make the swap expensive. Conversely if you're swapping in another 1GR-FE, you need to make sure its the same year as there is a difference between some years that was never properly explained by Toyota (one member mentioned newer 1GR-FE's in the 4th Gens had a 3 wire Camshaft Position sensor and different VVTi assemblies and this caused an issue with getting the engine to run right for him.)
You're basically removing the oil pan, the front of the engine, all associated components, then reassembling, and resealing all that back up. This means an oil change, coolant flush, probably a water pump wouldn't be a bad option since its coming off anyways, FIPG (Form In Place Gasket) for sealing, checking the components under the cover, ect. While you've got the cover off it would not be a bad idea to have the timing chain inspected for stretching/wear as you should be doing that after about 100k (they do stretch/wear over time and that means new chain, guides, gears, ect. but usually that's in the 200k~300k+ range)
Its on the more expensive side for a timing chain reseal (It is dealer pricing after all), but be glad you don't have a 2GR-FE (3.5L V6) transverse engine where the entire engine has to be dropped to do the job (even more labor.) This is the inherited cost of a timing chain motor, longer service intervals for some components, but very expensive in labor and cost when they do wear out.
~
Post Note-
Switching over to a 2UZ-FE (4.7L V8) will be a bit more difficult as you will need an ECM as well as an immobilizer module (I don't know if you can seed a 1GR-FE (4.0L V6) Immobilizer for a 2UZ-FE ECM, depends on how lenient Toyota was in that department), the 4WD module may not like the 2UZ-FE module also (I haven't heard anyone try and put the Part-Time 4WD set-up in a V8 so I can't say how well it'd work), as well as some of the other associated components (these are more bits and parts like having new mounts made if needed, hoses, fittings, wiring, ect.) In the end while the motor would be about $2500, the ancillary costs would make the swap expensive. Conversely if you're swapping in another 1GR-FE, you need to make sure its the same year as there is a difference between some years that was never properly explained by Toyota (one member mentioned newer 1GR-FE's in the 4th Gens had a 3 wire Camshaft Position sensor and different VVTi assemblies and this caused an issue with getting the engine to run right for him.)
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robaroni
New member
I have had such bad luck with dealerships that I just won't go to the anymore. Chrysler, Ford and Toyota have all done sub par work on past vehicles.
I found my current mechanic through a friend. Ask people you trust and someone will point you in the right direction.
I want to agree that an original engine with such bad minor bissue is far superior to a rebuilt or reman. No matter how well they rebuild it, the combination of aftermarket costs and not having a 2 billion dollar zero dirt laser weld, robotic run assembly plant means these engines are far less reliable.
If the engine was totalled, then sure, get a cheap rebuild with a couple year warranty, but something as minor as this....not even a question. Keep the original. Hell, to be clear, the cost to repair is labor. The actual issue is minor and there is a good chance that as long as you were OK with checking oil more frequently, this engine will continue to operate for a long time...as is.
There just is no substitute for the billions in investment and infrastructure behind your original engine.
If the engine was totalled, then sure, get a cheap rebuild with a couple year warranty, but something as minor as this....not even a question. Keep the original. Hell, to be clear, the cost to repair is labor. The actual issue is minor and there is a good chance that as long as you were OK with checking oil more frequently, this engine will continue to operate for a long time...as is.
There just is no substitute for the billions in investment and infrastructure behind your original engine.
BlackWorksInc
New member
I understand what you're saying, but most of that infrastructure is to build the engine from literally scrap metal, melt it, machine it, ect. A good engine shop isn't doing anywhere near the amount of work these robots and laser welders are. Granted, measuring, machining, rebuilding an engine the right way is in no way simple; but its not building an engine block from molten metal like the factory.
I'd have to argue that a good engine rebuilder/shop can not only rebuild an engine as good as the factory, but in some cases maybe even improve on flaws in the original engine design (i.e. headgaskets on the 1GR-FE, or using a beefier connecting rod on the 2UZ-FE for those that want some more strength or are boosting, ect.)
V8Man
Member
I agree rebuilding the engine that came in the truck is a way better option than picking up a rebuilt assembly from god only knows what parts were reused. I toured a reman factory once. When an engine came in it was completely dissamebled and all the parts went different direction. After cleaning and "inspection" a new Frankenstein engine was assembled. Parts from hundreds of engines could be in yours. They also say a 10% reject is acceptable too. Oil is cheap, wash the leak off every so often, put an oil pad to keep from staining your driveway.
While I completely agree with this....I don't think a timing chain cover gasket is something that normally comes up, and you shouldn't be replacing it until the timing chain needs to be done....which should be over 250k miles.
With that said...I've done a few timing chains and belts over the years....and timing chains are a lot more complicated then timing belts mainly because timing chains need oil and thus the covers need gaskets. This really complicates it...and drastically increases labor cost.
I'd find a good independent. The labor costs for independents here in NH and MA is a lot less then the dealer. But still expect to pay $1500 or more.
As for replacing the timing chain..If you have over 100k miles then I'd consider replacing it anyways since the labor cost to replace it again is so high.
subspd
New member
Thanks for all the advice! My wife was amazed at how many helpful responses there were. We are going to take our time and try to figure out what to do. Since this isn't urgent we have that luxury. I am thinking about just driving it till it dies. Well until the tranny probably dies. But to do this will require maintenance just to keep it going. Sometimes a car payment just doesn't look that bad when you start hitting these big repairs.
I just spent 1k on brakes a few months ago and last year did new front CVs which was about $700 I think.
Now my question is how long will the tranny last if I do fix this issue. If it goes out next year I will regret not trading it in.
I just spent 1k on brakes a few months ago and last year did new front CVs which was about $700 I think.
Now my question is how long will the tranny last if I do fix this issue. If it goes out next year I will regret not trading it in.
