Did I blow a head gasket?

[mailr0425]

So last week i finally fixed the main problem that my 88 22re was having.. cylinder 1 wasn't firing properly. Turns out it was a valve gap issue and only had to adjust the gap. After that, the noise went away and gained around 25% power back.. sweet! Except for the fact that I was driving on the freeway last night, heard the same familiar, ticking almost whining sound, at about 2000-2500 rpm, got off on my ramp to go home and BOOM! Car dies and theres smoke (maybe steam on second thought) everywhere! Pop the hood and find coolant sprayed on my CAI tube and the cone from the overflow tank. The engine turns but wont start. Checked my compression and it is as follows:

Cylinder 1: 60psi

Cylinder 2: 30psi

Cylinder 3: 30psi

Cylinder 4: 35psi

Everyone that I talk to says it's most likely a blown head gasket, which is no biggie... just a lot of time. I wanted to know if any of you thought otherwise?

Also when I set the valve gap I originally thought I needed a whole new top end so I took apart the top end to replace it. Found a GINORMOUS crack on my exhaust manifold, any suggestions for a decent header that's CA smog approved?

 

[turboSR5]

Sounds exactly like a blown head gasket and your compression backs that up. No idea on a CA smog approved header, maybe ask LC engineering or check with Northwest Off Road. You can however get decent results from the stock manifold if you run 2" pipe from the header to the muffler, then 2.25" from muffler to tip. I ran that setup before going with the LC engineering header I have now. I have to say the stock setup with 2" and 2.25" tubing had better torque down low in the RPM range where the new header wakes up at mid range and pulls pretty hard around 3-3.5k.

 

[A4X4NSNOWMAN]

I concur! that is definitley a blown head gasket. the 22re is damn near a bulletproof block. almost any machine shop will tell you that. but in my experience around 200,000 to 250,000 miles, either the head gasket goes, or valves break, or something along those lines. so you should be able to resurface the head and reinstall with no issues(i do recommend getting new head bolts though for it, makes things easier later on if it needs to come off again, especially on high mileage). first off, stop trying to turn it over, you'll bend a rod if there's coolant in the cylinders. i would just take the head off, have it resurfaced and put new valves in it and you'll be good to go. just make sure you wedge that timing chain in its current position once you find TDC before pulling the cam gear off. i got my head resurfaced, gasket kit, and oversized valves put in my old 22re head for less than $300 and did everything but the machine shop stuff myself. Oh ya, you could've also blown the intake manifold gasket. if that blows out or isnt installed right, they leak coolant like crazy! (HINT: spray glue it to the head before you put it on. it'll give better seal, less likely to leak, and less likely to move or get torn when putting the manifold on).
IDk about a CA legal header or exhaust manifold for those. im sure they are around. try Headman Headers. The 22RE is in some older rice burners too so if you can find the right bend and all, you could probably get one of the rice burner header for it. if you plan to keep it and already have it smogged and dont have to smog it every year, throw what you want on it. idk many smog places that look at those for the visual check. they more check for the CAT and O2 sensors and such. as long as it comes out clean in the tail, thats mostly what they care about. my buddy is a smog tech in cali. hope this helps.

 

[A4X4NSNOWMAN]

one more thing! dont forget to check to see if ur timing chain needs to be replaced while u have it apart. save yourself some hassle later on possibly.