Diff repair options?

J

jfeg

New member
New to the forum and already in a bind!
I bought a 2000 Limited 4x4 a few days ago, cheap. (I know!!!!) Everything works, even the A/C and power antenna Drives great!
Today I noticed a leak from the rear end. Found out it has a crack in the rear differential.
Guy at the shop said take a wire brush and JB weld it for now. Ok?!?!
But for a permanent fix, what’s a option without costing more than I paid for it? If I find one in a junkyard how can I tell if it matches my gear ratio?
TIA!
 
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I've seen a few people on here who managed to grenade their rear diff. But you're right it's pretty rare.

JB weld will at least keep the fluid from leaking out and potentially warping the axle housing. For a more permanent solution, look up your axle code on your door jam sticker. Chances are it's an A03A, 4.10 gears. You can remove the entire 3rd member by disconnecting the rear driveshaft, pulling both rear axles out (not at hard as it seems) and then taking the 10 or so bolts out holding the entire 3rd member to the axle housing. You should then be able to count the teeth on the gears to verify and then pick one up from a junk yard for about $100.
 
More info needed. I’ve never heard of a cracked rear diff either. Rusted and leaking rear axle housing, yes. Or leaking at the seal between diff and housing. In fact I just finished replacing mine Due to a rusted housing. What’s cracked exactly? Diff, housing? And yes, if your not in a salt belt area, find your replacement parts in a local junkyard and swap in yourself. If your in the rust belt, try this forum or EBay for rust free parts. As for the gear ratio, search this forum for ‘spin test’ to determine your ratio. If the diff is out, count teeth and divide number of teeth on the ring gear by number of teeth on the pinion hear. 43/10, 41/10, etc.
 
I’ve tried 3 times to upload a pic but it says upload error! So I guess that means my rear diff isn’t leaking on my driveway? Or the guy at the shop that had it on the lift and pointing to the crack leaking fluid are incompetent?
 
Are you sure it's not the housing that's cracked? The diff wall thickness is pretty beefy. The rear of the housing, not so much.
 
Really? We all took our time to give you good advice, and ask for more info and pics to make sure we put you on the right track. Good luck
 
jfeg said:
It’s the rear pumpkin cover that’s cracked.
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That's the axle housing. That's not a cover. It's the back of the housing. Just get a used one from a junkyard and swap it out. JB weld will hold for a long time though. You could also use Quik Steel.

Drain the fluids. Spray some brake cleaner on the crack. Then fill it and let it set. It'll hold plenty long enough for you to find a cheap junkyard housing.
 
theesotericone said:
That's the axle housing. That's not a cover. It's the back of the housing. Just get a used one from a junkyard and swap it out. JB weld will hold for a long time though. You could also use Quik Steel.

Drain the fluids. Spray some brake cleaner on the crack. Then fill it and let it set. It'll hold plenty long enough for you to find a cheap junkyard housing.
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I would think that a complete real axle housing swap would be a bit of work though? That's one of the few jobs I have not done, I was offered some pay to do it for someone else but I declined since it seemed a bit tricky due to the size and weight of the axle housing.

Personally, I think I'd go the JB weld route before a complete rear end replacement. The diff fluid isn't under too much heat and no pressure so just got to stop the leak.
 
jfeg said:
I’ve tried 3 times to upload a pic but it says upload error! So I guess that means my rear diff isn’t leaking on my driveway? Or the guy at the shop that had it on the lift and pointing to the crack leaking fluid are incompetent?
Click to expand...
Pics don't load if they're too big. Reduce the pixel dimension in any of a multitude of ways and they will load onto forum.
 
You have a bunch of options. You can get a whole used rear axle assembly, you just need to know your gear ratio. (door sticker or call dealer with VIN) You could buy a brand new or a used axle housing and just swap your third member and axles into it. A new housing from Toyota is about $1500. You can drain it, wire brush it and clean it really well then 2 part epoxy it. I believe the the best option is to cut the old cover off and weld on a new one. Dorman makes one as does Barnes 4X4. Any competent shop should be able to do this in about three hours.
 
A local junkyard has a rear diff with the factory locker for $100 but it’s out of a ‘97. What are the chances it’s the same gear ratio?
 
jfeg said:
A local junkyard has a rear diff with the factory locker for $100 but it’s out of a ‘97. What are the chances it’s the same gear ratio?
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If they are selling a factory e-locker assembly for $100, you should buy it on the spot. If the gear ratio is wrong, you can resell it for about 3X the price.
 
jfeg said:
A local junkyard has a rear diff with the factory locker for $100 but it’s out of a ‘97. What are the chances it’s the same gear ratio?
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a locker for 100, that is a steal

as far as same ratio, too many options. Automatic, 5 speed etc.
If ratio is right then all else will fit
 
4Runner4Leon said:
If they are selling a factory e-locker assembly for $100, you should buy it on the spot. If the gear ratio is wrong, you can resell it for about 3X the price.
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To be honest I was really surprised it was that cheap! Man said it’s to whole assembly hub to hub. $100 for the rear end and $50 to drop it for me.
 
jfeg said:
To be honest I was really surprised it was that cheap! Man said it’s to whole assembly hub to hub. $100 for the rear end and $50 to drop it for me.
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wow, hub to hub around here is like 600-750
yes you can regear the front to match,

see how much he wants for the front, and if off the same rig, you know it will match. Swapping out the front as a unit I believe is easier them just regearing
 
I swapped out my whole rear end over a weekend on my lawn. Not too hard with jacks and blocks of wood. I'd go that route and then swap the front to match if its different. I wouldn't dick around with jb weld since if its leaking by itself then when you go to wire wheel it you'll probably find more holes everywhere. For $100 go with that other axle. That is a steal.
 
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