Differences in rear axle shafts?

[Silver.T4R]

So this is a bit of a long story...

I blew the pinion bearing in the rear differential on my 98' and decided to swap it with an elocked axle out of a 99' 4Runner that I picked up at a junkyard. I recently did the rear brake shoes on the axle shafts from my original axle and figured I'd swap the 98' axle shafts over to the 99' housing with the elocker. I noticed that both axle seals were leaking on the 99' axle housing and decided to replace them aswell as have the wheel bearings replaced on the axle shafts from my 98' as they had quite a bit of play in them at a reputable shop.

I just finished up the swap a couple days ago and everything went smoothly other than I noticed that there was quite a bit of tension / a slight grind when spinning the axle shafts during the last 1/4" of putting them into the housing. I figured at the time that it was due to not having any gear oil in the diff and didn't think much of it though I noticed my speedometer didn't work on the test drive. I went ahead and drove it to work the next day since its my daily figuring I had somehow damaged one of the rear ABS sensors while swapping the axle and sure enough on my way to work it threw a P0500 for a speed sensor. When I went to test the sensors tonight however they both were with in spec at ~1300-1400ohms. After seeing that they tested in spec, I pulled the rear ABS sensors to double check that the ABS gears were centered properly with the sensors and saw that they were roughly 1/4"-1/2" off from the sensors and had metal shavings all over them...

So my question is, did the machine shop install the ABS gears at the wrong spot? Or was I wrong in thinking that axle shafts were the same regardless of year and whether or not they had a locker?

Any help is much as appreciated as I no longer have a reference of where the ABS gears were originally on my 98" to compare the axle shafts with each other.
PXL_20210924_004342887 | Flickr
PXL_20210924_004416005.PORTRAIT | Flickr
Untitled | Flickr

 

[UnderFire]

I'm not much help but I snapped a quick picture of an axle shaft out of a 98. Better than nothing I suppose.

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

 

[spartacus]

So this is a bit of a long story...

I blew the pinion bearing in the rear differential on my 98' and decided to swap it with an elocked axle out of a 99' 4Runner that I picked up at a junkyard. I recently did the rear brake shoes on the axle shafts from my original axle and figured I'd swap the 98' axle shafts over to the 99' housing with the elocker. I noticed that both axle seals were leaking on the 99' axle housing and decided to replace them aswell as have the wheel bearings replaced on the axle shafts from my 98' as they had quite a bit of play in them at a reputable shop.

I just finished up the swap a couple days ago and everything went smoothly other than I noticed that there was quite a bit of tension / a slight grind when spinning the axle shafts during the last 1/4" of putting them into the housing. I figured at the time that it was due to not having any gear oil in the diff and didn't think much of it though I noticed my speedometer didn't work on the test drive. I went ahead and drove it to work the next day since its my daily figuring I had somehow damaged one of the rear ABS sensors while swapping the axle and sure enough on my way to work it threw a P0500 for a speed sensor. When I went to test the sensors tonight however they both were with in spec at ~1300-1400ohms. After seeing that they tested in spec, I pulled the rear ABS sensors to double check that the ABS gears were centered properly with the sensors and saw that they were roughly 1/4"-1/2" off from the sensors and had metal shavings all over them...

So my question is, did the machine shop install the ABS gears at the wrong spot? Or was I wrong in thinking that axle shafts were the same regardless of year and whether or not they had a locker?

Any help is much as appreciated as I no longer have a reference of where the ABS gears were originally on my 98" to compare the axle shafts with échange other.

They are all 30 spline axle AFAIK. Most post point to the abs module as the culprit for the p0500 code or a bad cluster.
If you can see the edges of the rings then they are in correct. They are normally off set to one side in the abs opening.from your pics I can only see one edge of the abs ring but that might be because of the camera angle. The metal shavings could probably also be the cause. There must have been metal shavings inside the axle housing that coated the sensors and threw off the reading. Clean the sensors and put them back in flush see if your speedometer comes back up. If not then you might have to pull the axles and check if the tone rings are installed correctly. Short in the abs wire can also be a cause.If the wires are stretched or broken. The fsm has a procedure to test the abs circuit.

 

[Bad Luck]

I can't see any of your photos OP

 

[spartacus]

I can't see any of your photos OP

It's odd but when you reply with quotes you will see his pic links but they don't show up on his original post. I just copied and pasted his links.

 

[Bad Luck]

That was weird lol thanks for that spartacus

That's about where my abs reluctor ring is in my rear axle. The metal shavings could be the cause of your interference.

 

[3bears]

but what caused metal shavings ?

 

[Silver.T4R]

Thanks guys, not sure why the photos didn't post orignally but I updated the post with a link to them instead.

I appreciate the closeup picture [MENTION=90352]UnderFire[/MENTION], thats exactly what I was looking for to see if there was a difference between where the 98' ABS rings are mounted and the 99' rings are mounted on the axles in my garage.

That's about where my abs reluctor ring is in my rear axle. The metal shavings could be the cause of your interference.

That's what I'm trying to figure out, because I cleaned the axle and the area where the ABS rings go prior to installing the new axle and there weren't any metal shavings. Also, if the metal shavings were coming from the diff/inside the axle housing wouldn't the axle seal keep them from getting into the ABS ring area?

They are all 30 spline axle AFAIK. Most post point to the abs module as the culprit for the p0500 code or a bad cluster.
If you can see the edges of the rings then they are in correct. They are normally off set to one side in the abs opening.from your pics I can only see one edge of the abs ring but that might be because of the camera angle. The metal shavings could probably also be the cause. There must have been metal shavings inside the axle housing that coated the sensors and threw off the reading. Clean the sensors and put them back in flush see if your speedometer comes back up. If not then you might have to pull the axles and check if the tone rings are installed correctly. Short in the abs wire can also be a cause.If the wires are stretched or broken. The fsm has a procedure to test the abs circuit.

What's weird is I didn't have any issues with the cluster / speed sensors prior to swapping the axle, I checked the ABS sensors too to double check that they were both within spec. I only see one edge of the ABS gear when I go out and look at it, I can't see the other edge and I was thinking that maybe the shop installed the rings in the wrong spot and they were rubbing on the housing hence the shavings/extra resistance I felt when installing them?

I'm trying to figure out if the shop installed the ABS gears wrong or if the axle shafts between a 98' and 99' have a different install location for the ABS gear. I'm planning on pulling the axle shafts this afternoon and will update with what I find.

 

[Bad Luck]

Thanks guys, not sure why the photos didn't post orignally but I updated the post with a link to them instead.

I went and pulled one of my wheel speed sensors out (right side) so I could get a picture for you. I'll try my best to attach a photo of that.

It's been a while since I've had the rear axle out, but is the reluctor ring installed in the correct direction? The inboard side of the reluctor ring is flat and the outboard side of the reluctor ring is hollowed out for lack of better words. Here's a picture of the outboard side of the reluctor ring: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3151965-post1.html

 

[spartacus]

I went and pulled one of my wheel speed sensors out (right side) so I could get a picture for you. I'll try my best to attach a photo of that.

It's been a while since I've had the rear axle out, but is the reluctor ring installed in the correct direction? The inboard side of the reluctor ring is flat and the outboard side of the reluctor ring is hollowed out for lack of better words. Here's a picture of the outboard side of the reluctor ring: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3151965-post1.html

That's correct the inboard side is flat and the out board side is hollow. I will have to look at the distance for The abs reluctor in the fsm but if your abs ring is grinding then the shop installed the abs at the wrong distance.
[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] does a good job in the following video. https://youtu.be/AVhSDnw2ugo

 

[Silver.T4R]

Quick update, I pulled the shafts and found that the ABS gear rings were rubbing on the axle seals which caused all the metal shavings. I took the axles back into the machine shop and they corrected it for free and now they're centered with the ABS gears. I just went to test drive it however, and the speedometer and odometer still don't work.... Does anyone have any ideas what would cause this? I ohmed the ABS sensors and they both tested at ~1350-1400ohms so I'm pretty sure they're working as they should. I'm starting to think that something broke inside the instrument cluster but it seems weird to me that it would just happen to go out at the same time I swap the axle.

Pics of where it was rubbing:
PXL_20210924_234701946 | Flickr
PXL_20210924_215656696 | Flickr
PXL_20210924_215705806 | Flickr

Edit:
One thing I just remembered, I didn't have all the wiring for the elocker and had to order a couple parts off ebay so the elocker harness isn't currently connected. I've only been driving with the elocker axle as I figured it would be fine to use as a open diff until I have everything to complete the harness. Would this somehow affect the speedometer/odometer?

 

[Silver.T4R]

That's correct the inboard side is flat and the out board side is hollow. I will have to look at the distance for The abs reluctor in the fsm but if your abs ring is grinding then the shop installed the abs at the wrong distance.

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] does a good job in the following video. Toyota Rear Axle Seal/Bearing Replacement (ABS Rearend) - YouTube

Thanks spartacus, I've watched the video a couple times as I replaced the rear axle seals a couple years back and then watched it again before doing it this time on the new axle. It just seems weird to me that the speedo/odometer quit working as soon as I swapped the axle.

I went and pulled one of my wheel speed sensors out (right side) so I could get a picture for you. I'll try my best to attach a photo of that.

It's been a while since I've had the rear axle out, but is the reluctor ring installed in the correct direction? The inboard side of the reluctor ring is flat and the outboard side of the reluctor ring is hollowed out for lack of better words. Here's a picture of the outboard side of the reluctor ring: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3151965-post1.html

Thanks for the picture, it turns out the gear was installed to close to the the axle seal and was rubbing. As far as I'm aware the reluctor ring is where its supposed to be.

 

[spartacus]

Quick update, I pulled the shafts and found that the ABS gear rings were rubbing on the axle seals which caused all the metal shavings. I took the axles back into the machine shop and they corrected it for free and now they're centered with the ABS gears. I just went to test drive it however, and the speedometer and odometer still don't work.... Does anyone have any ideas what would cause this? I ohmed the ABS sensors and they both tested at ~1350-1400ohms so I'm pretty sure they're working as they should. I'm starting to think that something broke inside the instrument cluster but it seems weird to me that it would just happen to go out at the same time I swap the axle.

Pics of where it was rubbing:
PXL_20210924_234701946 | Flickr
PXL_20210924_215656696 | Flickr
PXL_20210924_215705806 | Flickr

I agree with you. I am thinking its something simple like abs fuse. Also a short in abs wiring harness even though the sensors are good.
P0500 : Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction
Open or short in No. 1 vehicle speed sensor circuit
No. 1 vehicle speed sensor
Combination meter
ECM
Automatic transmission (clutch, bracket or gear etc.

 

[Silver.T4R]

I agree with you. I am thinking its something simple like abs fuse. Also a short in abs wiring harness even though the sensors are good.
P0500 : Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction
Open or short in No. 1 vehicle speed sensor circuit
No. 1 vehicle speed sensor
Combination meter
ECM
Automatic transmission (clutch, bracket or gear etc.

Couple questions, would the ABS fuse cause the entire ABS system to act up? I just got home from work and bridged the pins in the ABS diagnosis port and got codes 31, 33, 34 and 41.

Code 31 - Front right sensor from what is saw in the FSM, I've had an ABS light ever since I bought the truck a few years ago but didn't bother fixing as the speedo worked fine and I heard the ABS can be oversensitive

Code 33 - I tested both rear sensors and they both tested within spec at ~1350ohms which is what the FSM shows they should be at

Code 34 - see above

Code 41 - I'm stumped on this one, I replaced the battery a few months ago with a diehard and my alternator works fine... not sure why it would be showing that I have low voltage

Last question, should I assume that the rear ABS sensor wiring harness is faulty since both sensors have an error and they both tested within spec?

Thanks again for the help.

 

[spartacus]

Couple questions, would the ABS fuse cause the entire ABS system to act up? I just got home from work and bridged the pins in the ABS diagnosis port and got codes 31, 33, 34 and 41.

Code 31 - Front right sensor from what is saw in the FSM, I've had an ABS light ever since I bought the truck a few years ago but didn't bother fixing as the speedo worked fine and I heard the ABS can be oversensitive

Code 33 - I tested both rear sensors and they both tested within spec at ~1350ohms which is what the FSM shows they should be at

Code 34 - see above

Code 41 - I'm stumped on this one, I replaced the battery a few months ago with a diehard and my alternator works fine... not sure why it would be showing that I have low voltage

Last question, should I assume that the rear ABS sensor wiring harness is faulty since both sensors have an error and they both tested within spec?

Thanks again for the help.

if you have access to the FSM Go to abs trac, vsc section page Di-285 to Di -287. Top of the page would say C1241/ 41. It details how to trouble shoot code 41.
.Check the ecu-ig fuse by the drivers door fuse box check with a volt meter. Test the abs relay behind the air box on the passenger fender. Goes with out saying, the battery terminals should be clean and tight and the alternator wiring harness good.

 

[Silver.T4R]

if you have access to the FSM Go to abs trac, vsc section page Di-285 to Di -287. Top of the page would say C1241/ 41. It details how to trouble shoot code 41.
.Check the ecu-ig fuse by the drivers door fuse box check with a volt meter. Test the abs relay behind the air box on the passenger fender. Goes with out saying, the battery terminals should be clean and tight and the alternator wiring harness good.

Just wanted to update this thread, I ended up purchasing new rear ABS sensors though the seller on ebay sent me the wrong another drivers side instead of the passengers side that I ordered. I got one of them installed last night and now the speedometer and odometer are working again! Not sure how it's working, as everything I've seen on here shows that the system needs both rear sensors in order to work but I'm happy to have my truck working again. Either way I'll be replacing the other rear sensor and the faulty front sensor which should hopefully clear all the ABS codes once I get the other sensor returned. Huge thanks [MENTION=50279]spartacus[/MENTION] for your help with troubleshooting this.