Differential and transfer case oil change
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pat161
New member
Depending how hard you use your truck every 30k or 2 years should be fine. If you are unsure when they were last done I would go ahead and change them out. The work is very easy, just hit all the plugs w/ PB blaster and they should come right out.
The front diff uses allen style plugs so make sure you have the appropriiate tool, it's been a while since I did my 02 but IIRC it uses a 12mm, if not then it is a 10mm, I know my friends 98 had one of each but on my 02 they were both the same size. Just be careful to put the magnetic plug in the right place, only the diffs have magnetic plugs the xfer does not. Its also a good idea to get the fill plug out first, it would suck to have a dry case and stuck fill plug. Are you switching to synthetic when you change them?
The front diff uses allen style plugs so make sure you have the appropriiate tool, it's been a while since I did my 02 but IIRC it uses a 12mm, if not then it is a 10mm, I know my friends 98 had one of each but on my 02 they were both the same size. Just be careful to put the magnetic plug in the right place, only the diffs have magnetic plugs the xfer does not. Its also a good idea to get the fill plug out first, it would suck to have a dry case and stuck fill plug. Are you switching to synthetic when you change them?
pat161
New member
Not really going to comment on whether synthetic is better or worse, there are plenty of people who endorse both. From all my research and personal experience I feel the extra money is worth it. Did I notice any kind of MPG improvement or less noise from the diffs or xfer, not at all, but I still like using it, in the long run I feel it protects a bit better and will extend the life of my parts, perhaps I am just throwing money away, I really don't know.
To answer your second question 75W90 GL-5 will be fine in both diffs and xfer case. If you do go synthetic Mobil1 is readily available at most parts stores. Front diff takes 1.2 quarts, rear diff 2.9 quarts w/ center diff lock(4wd models) and xfer takes 1.3 quarts. That way you know what to buy, I just fill them until fluid starts coming out the fill hole then they are all set. Get a pump to put the fluid in, much easier than trying to fill from the bottles.
To answer your second question 75W90 GL-5 will be fine in both diffs and xfer case. If you do go synthetic Mobil1 is readily available at most parts stores. Front diff takes 1.2 quarts, rear diff 2.9 quarts w/ center diff lock(4wd models) and xfer takes 1.3 quarts. That way you know what to buy, I just fill them until fluid starts coming out the fill hole then they are all set. Get a pump to put the fluid in, much easier than trying to fill from the bottles.
RonMAIDEN
Super Moderator
If you are actually going to go out and abuse your truck off road or tow regularly then synthetic will give you that litlte extra margin of error which can make all the diff in the world.
I raced a '93 AWD/turbo Eclipse for 8 years and I couldn't imagine running plain 'ol dino oil through that turbo which was hitting temps of about 600 more degrees than the engine temps were. Synthetic is much more stable at any temp and pours much easier at temps under 0F.
The same goes for my tranny and differentials and continues in my 4Runner but I do stretch my change intervals to 8k on the motor oil (M1 syn) and over 40k on my diffs and transfer case using Redline synthetics.
I raced a '93 AWD/turbo Eclipse for 8 years and I couldn't imagine running plain 'ol dino oil through that turbo which was hitting temps of about 600 more degrees than the engine temps were. Synthetic is much more stable at any temp and pours much easier at temps under 0F.
The same goes for my tranny and differentials and continues in my 4Runner but I do stretch my change intervals to 8k on the motor oil (M1 syn) and over 40k on my diffs and transfer case using Redline synthetics.
newurbanist
New member
Every fluid I have is synthetic (except for P/S and brake). In the motor I use Mobil 1; diffs, t-case and transmission (auto) is whatever Toyota uses. In my opinion synthetic fluid is quite expensive but gives me peace of mind. I switched all fluids to synthetic when I bought my 2002 SR5 at 60K.
I might catch some flack, but I do not change out the diff. fluids for maybe 80k miles or so. I have yet to have a vehicle crap out on me, but unless I'm doing a Baja race or towing like crazy, I can't see the reasoning behind 30k change intervals. Even the manual states that the 30k is for extreme conditions (or Special Op). I do mainly drive on-road, so take that into account.
BTW, when I change out the fluid next time, it will be with Amsoil.
BTW, when I change out the fluid next time, it will be with Amsoil.
Transfer case housing
New to the community here and can't seem to figure out how to post a new thread...
Anyways, I have a 97 LTD and I broke the transfer case where the drain bolt is (torque wrench failed me). I have sourced a 2000 LTD transfer case and am wondering if anyone knows if I can just swap the rear case and leave all of my original transfer case intact?
Thanks.
New to the community here and can't seem to figure out how to post a new thread...
Anyways, I have a 97 LTD and I broke the transfer case where the drain bolt is (torque wrench failed me). I have sourced a 2000 LTD transfer case and am wondering if anyone knows if I can just swap the rear case and leave all of my original transfer case intact?
Thanks.
Not possible unfortunately. You will need a transfer case from a 96-98 limited. You could swap just the case half that’s broken, but there is a very good chance that the transfer case actuator/shift rail wouldn’t be in the correct position. The safest and easiest way to fix your issue would be to just swap the entire transfer case from a 96-98 limited with your current transfer case.
Thanks Bad Luck - not the answer I was hoping for but useful information for sure.
