Differential fluid change
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greasefingers
New member
For the 4wd models: drain plug 48 ft-lbs & the fill plug is 29.
For the 2wd models: both are 36 ft-lbs.
This comes from my 2003 Factory Service Manual.
I believe that 48 ft-lbs is a lot, so I just torque them both at 30 ft-lbs. I used the fiber washers rather than the metal crush rings.
You can just use some common sense on this for those that do not have a torque wrench.
For the 2wd models: both are 36 ft-lbs.
This comes from my 2003 Factory Service Manual.
I believe that 48 ft-lbs is a lot, so I just torque them both at 30 ft-lbs. I used the fiber washers rather than the metal crush rings.
You can just use some common sense on this for those that do not have a torque wrench.
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Whoknows
Member
Torque Values
Yeah, 48lbs seems a bit much. I think I'll just go with about 30lbs myself.
SHock-D
Check this link: http://www.4runners.org/articles/difftsf/
Yeah, 48lbs seems a bit much. I think I'll just go with about 30lbs myself.
SHock-D
Check this link: http://www.4runners.org/articles/difftsf/
Kmvreter
New member
Did this myself
Stealer and others wanted big money to do the diffs and transfer case oils. I was able to do all 3 (with the bonus of using Mobil 75W90 synthetic gear oil) for less than C$90.00 plus tools.
Thanks to all for the hints on using a marine pump (bought one at Canadian Tire), oil quantities and the torque values.
Stealer and others wanted big money to do the diffs and transfer case oils. I was able to do all 3 (with the bonus of using Mobil 75W90 synthetic gear oil) for less than C$90.00 plus tools.
Thanks to all for the hints on using a marine pump (bought one at Canadian Tire), oil quantities and the torque values.
Kmvreter
New member
Prices
Dealer actually was reasonably priced at first glance. Two diffs (C$30.95) and transfer case (C$32.95) with regular lube actually looks like a bargain compared to lube shops that want ~$50 x 3 ($85 x 3 with synthetic.)
But the catch is the price is imbedded in the "Required Services" section of a 64,000 Km regular service interval that totals $433.65 + 15% tax = C$498.70!. Almost 500 smackers and I still don't have synthetic. But I do have the pleasure of knowing they also did the engine coolant ($94.95), cabin air filter ($46.95) and lubed the prop shaft ($17.95.) I almost forgot, that includes a regular oil change and all kinds of checks and inspections. Give me a break! I did all this for the cost of lubes (Mobil 1 5W30 engine and 75W90 gear oils) and parts (MicronAir filter; Toyota brand coolant, oil filter, crush washers.) Total incl. tax C$211.93.
Plus I had the pleasure of DIY and getting to know the truck rather than the pleasure of walking funny (either from the lighter wallet or the shaft or both) after sitting bored in the stealership service lounge. The least they could do is provide dancing girls and cold drinks with umbrellas for that kind of money!
Dealer actually was reasonably priced at first glance. Two diffs (C$30.95) and transfer case (C$32.95) with regular lube actually looks like a bargain compared to lube shops that want ~$50 x 3 ($85 x 3 with synthetic.)
But the catch is the price is imbedded in the "Required Services" section of a 64,000 Km regular service interval that totals $433.65 + 15% tax = C$498.70!. Almost 500 smackers and I still don't have synthetic. But I do have the pleasure of knowing they also did the engine coolant ($94.95), cabin air filter ($46.95) and lubed the prop shaft ($17.95.) I almost forgot, that includes a regular oil change and all kinds of checks and inspections. Give me a break! I did all this for the cost of lubes (Mobil 1 5W30 engine and 75W90 gear oils) and parts (MicronAir filter; Toyota brand coolant, oil filter, crush washers.) Total incl. tax C$211.93.
Plus I had the pleasure of DIY and getting to know the truck rather than the pleasure of walking funny (either from the lighter wallet or the shaft or both) after sitting bored in the stealership service lounge. The least they could do is provide dancing girls and cold drinks with umbrellas for that kind of money!
ddd269
New member
In the owners manual, it states that the v6 diffs take 75w-90, but the v8s take 80w-90 (or straight 90 in -18 or above).
Is it ok to use 75w-90?
I just ordered 75w-90 from amsoil by mistake. I only saw the v6 fluid requirements. duh!
I know the first number(75 or 80) is for the lower temerature rating... How does this affect in warmer temp? Is there any difference between the two (protection, drivability, etc.)?
Thanks
Is it ok to use 75w-90?
I just ordered 75w-90 from amsoil by mistake. I only saw the v6 fluid requirements. duh!
I know the first number(75 or 80) is for the lower temerature rating... How does this affect in warmer temp? Is there any difference between the two (protection, drivability, etc.)?
Thanks
Baba Booey
New member
Boaz said:
Does everyone agree that the front and rear diffs and t-case all use different crush washers? I stopped by the stealer today and had the usual "Twilight Zone" experience with the parts guy.
I explained that I was changing the fluids in my rear diff, front diff and transfer case and that I needed the appropriate crush washers. He comes back with one washer. Then I explain that I was under the impression that both the drain and fill plug each needed a crush washer, so he comes back with one more. Then I explain that I need two for each diff and the t-case and he finally catches on and gives me six total.
Then I asked whether he was certain that they were all supposed to be the same exact part. He said "I checked with the Tech and this is what you need."
If I need to make a 100 mile round trip to the dealer to return these washers for different ones, I am going to be pretty ticked off, especially because I did all I could (short of knowing the part numbers ahead of time) to make sure they knew exactly what I needed.
Where do they get these guys?
ddd269
New member
If I remember it correctly, at least 2 sets were different.
I had to figure out which was which and could tell them apart only after removing the washers.
At least one set was crush washers and the others were not.
I remember that one washer had a kind of felt material.
Sorry to be so unspecific, but I really don't remember too well.
If it makes you feel better, I was as confused as you were when I left the dealer.
btw. some of the washers (flast ones) looked new even when I took them off. You should still chage them, though.
I had to figure out which was which and could tell them apart only after removing the washers.
At least one set was crush washers and the others were not.
I remember that one washer had a kind of felt material.
Sorry to be so unspecific, but I really don't remember too well.
If it makes you feel better, I was as confused as you were when I left the dealer.
btw. some of the washers (flast ones) looked new even when I took them off. You should still chage them, though.
greasefingers
New member
I have reused the metal washers two before. They will not leak. There is a possibility that they will weep after reuse but they will never leak to where a puddle will form on the ground.
I bought a package of ten of the fiber washers, from the dealer. They fit the oil pan drain plug and a couple of other places I believe. I also bought a second package of larger fiber washers, but I have not checked to see what they might fit.
I have done two complete fluid changes on the following so far: both diffs, tranny, transfer case, and radiator. Once at 30 k miles and once at 63 k miles. I will use all new fiber washers on the above, on the next change.
I bought a package of ten of the fiber washers, from the dealer. They fit the oil pan drain plug and a couple of other places I believe. I also bought a second package of larger fiber washers, but I have not checked to see what they might fit.
I have done two complete fluid changes on the following so far: both diffs, tranny, transfer case, and radiator. Once at 30 k miles and once at 63 k miles. I will use all new fiber washers on the above, on the next change.
wayneboard2
New member
I am about to change over these fuilds and have nver done this before. It seems pretty straight forward, but a few questions regardless. If I wanted to put synthetic in my diff and t case, what do I need to do besides drain out the regular oil that is alreayd in there? I assume there will still be some regular oil left in there regardless of how long I let it drain, so will putting in the synthetic and having these two essentially mix create a problem or can the exist in harmony? 
This is the original fluid from 122K so anything at this point will help but I want to do it right.
Also, some guys seem to be changing out their washers, but with no leaks at all, I can just go ahead and reuse the ones that are alreaydy there right?
Also, I have done some work under my 4 runner without jacking it up and it's quite easy to do. Does this need to be done? It seems they could easily be done with the runner on the ground.
Thanks everyone.
This is the original fluid from 122K so anything at this point will help but I want to do it right.
Also, some guys seem to be changing out their washers, but with no leaks at all, I can just go ahead and reuse the ones that are alreaydy there right?
Also, I have done some work under my 4 runner without jacking it up and it's quite easy to do. Does this need to be done? It seems they could easily be done with the runner on the ground.
Thanks everyone.
Baba Booey
New member
I would let the diffs drain as much as possible, within reason, and add the new syn oil without doing anything else. The synthetic and conventional gear oils will be fully compatible, and the very small amount of conventional oil remaining won't hurt anything.
Be sure to clean the metallic sludge from the magnetic drain plug, and be sure not to mix up the magnetic drain plug and non-magnetic fill plug when reinstalling.
The crush washers help to create a good, tight seal by crushing down between the plug and diff when the plug is torqued down. Once the washers have been used, they are already crushed, and so I believe it is a good idea to spend the extra few dollars and get all new washers if possible. I was given several incorrect washers by the dealer, so I did reuse some of my old ones. I just flipped them over and used them again without too much worry.
The rear and transfer case are relatively easy without raising the vehicle, although removing the spare tire seemed to help. I definitely found it helpful to put the vehicle on ramps when working up front. There is not a lot of room up there to remove the skid plate and get to the front diff if the vehicle is not raised.
The washer part numbers are listed in a previous post in this thread.
Be sure to clean the metallic sludge from the magnetic drain plug, and be sure not to mix up the magnetic drain plug and non-magnetic fill plug when reinstalling.
The crush washers help to create a good, tight seal by crushing down between the plug and diff when the plug is torqued down. Once the washers have been used, they are already crushed, and so I believe it is a good idea to spend the extra few dollars and get all new washers if possible. I was given several incorrect washers by the dealer, so I did reuse some of my old ones. I just flipped them over and used them again without too much worry.
The rear and transfer case are relatively easy without raising the vehicle, although removing the spare tire seemed to help. I definitely found it helpful to put the vehicle on ramps when working up front. There is not a lot of room up there to remove the skid plate and get to the front diff if the vehicle is not raised.
The washer part numbers are listed in a previous post in this thread.
wayneboard2
New member
So what size socket do these plugs take? I read 10MM but that was WAY to small for mine and I have nothing that will fit it. It is a stock plug. Thanks!
Baba Booey
New member
You will need a 24 mm socket for the rear diff and transfer case plugs, but a standard 15/16" socket may work in a pinch.
You need a 10 mm hex key for the front diff.
You need a 10 mm hex key for the front diff.
Ghostrider
Registered User
very easy to do
Did the rear diff this afternoon on my 2001. No issues and no spills. The only oil on my hands was from using the pinky to make sure of the level. It took every bit of 2.6 quarts - closer to 2.75 but there was some left in each bottle and the pump. The hardest part was breaking loose the plugs with a 2 foot bar with a 6 point socket. I used a 2 dollar on sale pump from Harbor Freight and it worked fine. The only two issues were using the wrong crush washer (mixed up what the parts guy gave me) and discovering that a previous visit to the dealer for this resulted in a fill plug that was starting to round off. Went back and got a new fill plug but am going with the wrong crush washer unless someone tells me otherwise or I see a leak. I had it changed at 20 and 40k miles and I did it at 65K. There was nothing on the magnetic drain plug at all and the oil looked pretty darn clean.
Did the rear diff this afternoon on my 2001. No issues and no spills. The only oil on my hands was from using the pinky to make sure of the level. It took every bit of 2.6 quarts - closer to 2.75 but there was some left in each bottle and the pump. The hardest part was breaking loose the plugs with a 2 foot bar with a 6 point socket. I used a 2 dollar on sale pump from Harbor Freight and it worked fine. The only two issues were using the wrong crush washer (mixed up what the parts guy gave me) and discovering that a previous visit to the dealer for this resulted in a fill plug that was starting to round off. Went back and got a new fill plug but am going with the wrong crush washer unless someone tells me otherwise or I see a leak. I had it changed at 20 and 40k miles and I did it at 65K. There was nothing on the magnetic drain plug at all and the oil looked pretty darn clean.
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Thanks for this thread, everyone!! You saved me a lot of money, and probably a lot of time.
Just changed the differentials and transfer case to Mobil 1 75W-90. The fluids were really bad -- rear differential was black, front was dark coffee-colored, and the transfer case was dark brown. Couldn't find the $2 pump at Harbor Freight, so bought a large syringe-like pump that worked fine.
To make the oil a little thinner to pump, I heated it using a styrofoam cooler and warm water. Poured and pumped really easily.
Overall, took about 2 hours to do the job. Didn't need to use the jack stands to get to the front -- was able to wriggle in there after taking off the skid plate.
Just changed the differentials and transfer case to Mobil 1 75W-90. The fluids were really bad -- rear differential was black, front was dark coffee-colored, and the transfer case was dark brown. Couldn't find the $2 pump at Harbor Freight, so bought a large syringe-like pump that worked fine.
To make the oil a little thinner to pump, I heated it using a styrofoam cooler and warm water. Poured and pumped really easily.
Overall, took about 2 hours to do the job. Didn't need to use the jack stands to get to the front -- was able to wriggle in there after taking off the skid plate.
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