DIY - Brake pad changer
- Thread starter Mtneer001
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TechWrench
Senior Member
Mtneer001 said:
3-ton floor jack and two 10-ton jack stands.
fun4runner
New member
Re: Re: DIY - Brake pad changer
how much does these jacks cost and which is the best place to buy them, can i use the same stands on my other car (accord 2002)
thx
TechWrench said:
how much does these jacks cost and which is the best place to buy them, can i use the same stands on my other car (accord 2002)
thx
TheBlueWave
New member
Jack and stand prices vary quite a bit. SUV jacks, or jacks with higher ranges of lift will be more costly, and some of them won't work with other cars that are low to the ground. One thing you could do is get a cheaper jack for a car (but at least 3-ton capacity) and stack wood on it to lift the runner.
Jack stands are cheap so if you had to you could get a set for the runner and one for the Honda.
Jack stands are cheap so if you had to you could get a set for the runner and one for the Honda.
Uneek
Super Moderator
Re: Re: Re: DIY - Brake pad changer
You want a garage jack (or some call it a heavy-duty floor jack) with a 2.5-3 ton range. Don't get the narrow skinny type floor jack. Aluminum racing jacks are 2 ton capacity typically. They're much lighter if you ever need to transport it around. But I personally like the all steel heavy duty jack over the aluminum racing jack. A good jack will be about $100.
For jack stands make sure you get a pair/set that has a higher capacity than your jack. I have a set 4 ton stands and they're quite a bit taller when at its lowest than my 3 ton stands. The taller stands isn't that big of a deal, just that you have to lift the car much higher off the ground before you can get them under it. I paid $30 for the 4 ton stands a few years ago.
fun4runner said:
You want a garage jack (or some call it a heavy-duty floor jack) with a 2.5-3 ton range. Don't get the narrow skinny type floor jack. Aluminum racing jacks are 2 ton capacity typically. They're much lighter if you ever need to transport it around. But I personally like the all steel heavy duty jack over the aluminum racing jack. A good jack will be about $100.
For jack stands make sure you get a pair/set that has a higher capacity than your jack. I have a set 4 ton stands and they're quite a bit taller when at its lowest than my 3 ton stands. The taller stands isn't that big of a deal, just that you have to lift the car much higher off the ground before you can get them under it. I paid $30 for the 4 ton stands a few years ago.
fun4runner
New member
Re: Re: Re: Re: DIY - Brake pad changer
so 4 ton stands means the combined capacity of the pair is 4 ton which i suppose will support a 4runner (4runner may be ~ 2 tons )
tks for the feedback
Uneek said:
so 4 ton stands means the combined capacity of the pair is 4 ton which i suppose will support a 4runner (4runner may be ~ 2 tons )
tks for the feedback
TechWrench
Senior Member
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: DIY - Brake pad changer
I believe the rating is for one stand, but I don't think you can make the leap that two 4-ton stands can support 8-ton. I don't pretend to know all the mechanical load formulas, but it has to do with how the stands are placed, and how the load is balanced between them. I'm sure someone here has a better mechanical engineering understanding of how the load sharing works. For my purposes, I usually try to go no more than 1/3 to 1/2 of the rating of the equipment I am using. This allows me what I feel is an adequate safety margin. Also, the minimum/maximum working height of most jack stands increase as the load rating goes up. So if you need additional work height, you will usually have to go to a higher load rated unit. What I feel is as important as properly sizing the equipment to the load, is proper placement and use. The heavier rated stand isn't going to be any safer than a cheep one if it isn't set on a level, stable surface and supporting the vehicle at a proper point so it doesn't slip.
fun4runner said:
I believe the rating is for one stand, but I don't think you can make the leap that two 4-ton stands can support 8-ton. I don't pretend to know all the mechanical load formulas, but it has to do with how the stands are placed, and how the load is balanced between them. I'm sure someone here has a better mechanical engineering understanding of how the load sharing works. For my purposes, I usually try to go no more than 1/3 to 1/2 of the rating of the equipment I am using. This allows me what I feel is an adequate safety margin. Also, the minimum/maximum working height of most jack stands increase as the load rating goes up. So if you need additional work height, you will usually have to go to a higher load rated unit. What I feel is as important as properly sizing the equipment to the load, is proper placement and use. The heavier rated stand isn't going to be any safer than a cheep one if it isn't set on a level, stable surface and supporting the vehicle at a proper point so it doesn't slip.
Uneek
Super Moderator
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: DIY - Brake pad changer
:iagree: I never got through engineering, so I'm definately not the right person to ask. But it should be for one stand that's rated for 4-ton and not the combined capacity of a pair. (But it's a good idea to play it safe in case the rating was obtained by the marketing department rather than the R&D group.)
However, you'll notice that the higher capacity of the jack stand, the beefier the saddle and the wider the base is, which I believe is more stable. I personally don't feel comfortable with the stand extended more than 1/3 to 1/2 of it's maximum height. It just doesn't "feel" stable to me and I've seen cars fall off the stands before. Also, I recommend stands with saddles that are as flat as possible with a slight lip at the ends. Sears has some Craftsman that has this deep U-groove on the saddle. I find it difficult to position the stands on the lip/seam for uni-body vehicles.
I have this pair from Kragen. Here's the Craftsman stands with the deep U-groove that I don't like.
TechWrench said:
:iagree: I never got through engineering, so I'm definately not the right person to ask. But it should be for one stand that's rated for 4-ton and not the combined capacity of a pair. (But it's a good idea to play it safe in case the rating was obtained by the marketing department rather than the R&D group.)
fun4runner said:
However, you'll notice that the higher capacity of the jack stand, the beefier the saddle and the wider the base is, which I believe is more stable. I personally don't feel comfortable with the stand extended more than 1/3 to 1/2 of it's maximum height. It just doesn't "feel" stable to me and I've seen cars fall off the stands before. Also, I recommend stands with saddles that are as flat as possible with a slight lip at the ends. Sears has some Craftsman that has this deep U-groove on the saddle. I find it difficult to position the stands on the lip/seam for uni-body vehicles.
I have this pair from Kragen. Here's the Craftsman stands with the deep U-groove that I don't like.
