DIY Rear Brakes

[46runner]

DIY Replacing one rear brake caliper, both sets of rear brake pads, and greasing the caliper slide pins. 2004 4RUNNER SR5 V8 with 156k miles. I had previously replaced the rear calipers, rotors and pads in 2014.













to be continued below...

 

[46runner]

DIY Rear Brakes, post 2 of 2.

...continued

 

[07V8]

Motion for sticky....

 

[foragg]

I second that motion

 

[banilla16]

Third

 

[ZebRuaj]

Great work. Thanks for putting it together.

I just use the old brake pad and C Clamp to push the piston back in. No need to find a random wood board around the garage.

 

[DZNUTS]

As for wiping the rotors down with alcohol. I wouldn't even bother. Just pick up a can or two of brake cleaner and call it a day.


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[Benny123]

Beautiful write up. Anyone rebuilt the rear calipers before?

 

[blackoutt]

Beautiful write up. Anyone rebuilt the rear calipers before?

The remans are too cheap to justify it, swap with a "new" caliper and be done.

 

[That_Titanium_4RNR]

Does anyone know if the slide pins are identical or is there a difference between the top and bottom ones?

 

[CV4RNR]

Nice write up- Thanks!

 

[Mantilgh]

Beautiful write up!

An easy way to push the rear piston in (if you don’t have a C clamp) is to insert a screwdriver into the inspection slot between the outer pad and the caliper and slowly pull outward.

Do this before you disassemble or remove the caliper and make sure the piston is moving smoothly.

Mine probably need replacing and were not moving smoothly so I worked them in and out some by repeatedly pushing the piston in with my pry method and pumping the brakes to push the piston back out.

After I get the piston moving freely, then I remove the caliper.

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[knarfwhite]

I too used this thread recently. It was a good writeup. I previously tried cleaning the caliper, changing the pads and lubing the pins. I found that the piston was not fully releasing when I came off the brakes. The rebuilt caliper is such an improvement that I would not try working on an old caliper again. New pads fit so tight on all my old calipers and with the rebuild just slide right in.

 

[Mantilgh]

Another tip, flush the brake fluid. Don’t just bleed it. Most say it is only good two years and is probably holding moisture and causing some of our seizing problems.

It can easily be done by yourself.

Start vehicle and place an appropriate length board/stick/whatever between the front of the seat and the brake pedal so it keeps the pedal depressed. Leave vehicle running.

Crack bleeder and enjoy a constant flow of fluid. Top off reservoir as needed.



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[CV4RNR]

Sticky material here guys.
Nice write up. Thank you!

 

[G8rb8t]

Great write-up! Thank you. Newbie question:

I successfully replaced the rear calipers, brake pads and adjusted the emergency brake.

The original pads did not have a brake wear indicator installed and the new pads didn't have instructions on where to place the clips (I assembled without them). Can't find much online about where to install these either, they are NOT attached to the pads already, they are separate in the pad kit.

Do these go inside the pad mounting clips similar to figure 8 in the attached link? https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Toyota-Cressida-and-Van-1983-1990/Front-Disc-Brakes/Disc-Brake-Pads/_/P-0900c15280081b17

Thanks for any insights...

 

[gimlithepirate]

Beautiful writeup. Stuff like this makes me glad I'm a car mechanic in the Era of the internet XD

 

[patkelly4370]

Great write-up! Thank you. Newbie question:



I successfully replaced the rear calipers, brake pads and adjusted the emergency brake.



The original pads did not have a brake wear indicator installed and the new pads didn't have instructions on where to place the clips (I assembled without them). Can't find much online about where to install these either, they are NOT attached to the pads already, they are separate in the pad kit.



Do these go inside the pad mounting clips similar to figure 8 in the attached link? https://www.autozone.com/repairguid...c-Brakes/Disc-Brake-Pads/_/P-0900c15280081b17



Thanks for any insights...

Something that helps is disassembling one side at a time. You can refer to the other side for reassembly (assuming it was previously assembled correctly)

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[Mantilgh]

Guess I’ll add another tip since I watched so many brake job videos the other day and none of them used any silicone grease on anything except for maybe the back of the pads.

Don’t be scared, put a light coat of silicone grease on the sliding/contact points of the pads, the pad plates and the tabs on the pads that go into them.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bLaQGWtd1O4

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[Drcoffee]

It is time for new brakes, starting with the rears. I replaced the calipers, rotors and flex hose. I dont know if it makes any difference, but I installed Stop-Tech Stainless brake hoses. When I ordered the rear calipers, I intially bought the Nugeon coated calipers on Rockauto. When they arrived neither boxhad the correct caliper in them. WTF! How can the supplier screw up this bad? So I shipped them back and ordered Cardone coated calipers. As I was reading their specs, it caught me eye that the Cardone Ultra calipers have a 10yr 100k mile warranty. So this was a good mistake by rockauto. I ended up with a better set of calipers. I know members complain of repeatedly having to replace the seized calipers every few years. Check them out. The price was $80 with shipping for the pair.

And I will say that these are the easiest brakes I have ever bled. Crack the bleeder, turn key to on, press and hold brake pedal for 5 seconds, key off, check container for fluid level, repeat for 5 seconds, key off, close bleeder. FYI, I run the hose on the catch cup straight up from the bleeder screw so air bubbles will not re-enter the caliper. It Makes this a one man job. It took all of 15 seconds per caliper. If that.