DIY REVESOL Hydro-Dipped Carbon Steering Wheel Install

bRYANT619

New member
Just got this steering wheel in yesterday and decided to do a detailed DIY and short review. I know there are other steering wheel removal DIYs but hopefully this one is helpful as well!

Here is the wheel I purchased off eBay
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Tools needed for this project:
T30 Socket
19mm Socket
10mm wrench/ratchet
Misc ratchet extensions
Pliers
Steering wheel puller tool
Philips screw driver
Flat head pocket screw driver
Ratchet
Cordless impact (Optional)
Painters tape (Options)
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Step 1: Make sure the steering wheel is centered as best as possible. Then disconnect battery and wait approx 10-15 mins for residual power to completely drain before proceeding to step 2. I also flipped the window switches and door locks a few times.
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Step 2: Removal small trim caps on both sides of steering wheel to reveal Torx screws. I found a small flat head pocket screw driver worked best for this.
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Step 3: Using a T30 socket, remove the Torx screw on both sides of steering wheel. Using my cordless impact made quick work of this. The torx screw wont fall out, so don't worry.
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Step 4: At this point, you should be able to wiggle the airbag towards you. Be careful not to pull hard, as the cables behind are still connected.
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Step 5: At the back of the air bag, you will find 3 cables. One ground, one orange and one black SRS connector. I began by disconnect the ground, then proceeded to the SRS connectors. You will need to pry under and up on the SRS connectors to release them. A pick works best for this.
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Step 6: Once airbag is completely removed, place off to the side and move onto disconnecting the 2 white connectors at the top center of the wheel.
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Step 7
: Using a 19mm socket, remove the center nut for the steering wheel. Cordless impact works best if working alone. Otherwise, I'd recommend a 2nd set of hands to hold the steering wheel while using a ratchet to remove the nut.
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Step 8: Using a steering wheel puller/pulley puller, remove the steering wheel from its post. I used a harbor freight kit that I purchased for approx $13 using the 20% off coupon. Image of kit posted above. The kit uses 2 bolts that thread into the existing holes on your steering wheel + 1 center bolt that helps release the steering wheel as you turn it.
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Step 9: Optional step, but I taped the clock spring/roll connector/spiral cable to ensure it stayed centered.
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Step 10: Now its time to remove the controls and shroud to swap over to the new steering wheel. Remove the 8 philips head screws. At that point, everything the steering wheel controls and cruise control switch can be removed fairly easily. The back shroud is also easily removed by applying slight pressure at the top and bottom of the plastic cover (not pictured)
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Step 11: Swap everything over to the new wheel and assemble in reverse order as when removed from the OEM wheel. Make sure all 8 Philips head screws are tight.
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Step 12: Reinstall wheel in reverse order used to remove the wheel. Make sure the center nut is tight. My impact is rated at 150ft/lbs but I also went over it with my ratchet to ensure it was tight. The last part of this step should be reconnecting the battery. If everything was done correctly, you should not have any SRS lights on and horn functions normally. I did reinstall my wheel a little off-centered, so I will have to go back and adjust that sometime soon.
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Overall review: In my opinion it's a nice upgrade for the price. The steering wheel is thicker and I like the feel and ergos a lot better. I come from a long background of imports/tuner cars, so this steering wheel feels and looks a bit more natural too me as well.
 
Great write up! The only thing you might want to add is to be very careful not to pull the clock spring off.

Looks great. I get having that style wheel. Every time I drive my 4R back to back with my sports car I wish my Runner wheel felt as good.

Might have to bite the bullet.
 
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I replaced the clock spring on my girlfriends 2nd gen Tacoma and steps are pretty much the same to remove the steering wheel. Although I didn't need to use a steering wheel puller to get it off.

A few things I'd suggest

- I would remove the steering wheel nut and make match marks on the steering wheel and the steering spindle. That way when you put the steering wheel back on you know where it's centered. Each spline is about 10-degrees difference so if you get it off by 1 or 2 splines it's quite noticeably off centered. Once you make the marks you can put the nut back on if you're going to use a steering wheel puller.

- Torque the steering wheel nut back to spec. It's 37 ft-lbs. Torque specs are the same for both 2nd gen Taco and 5th gen 4R.

- Be careful not to turn the clock spring or you may lose or get where it's centered.
 
After seeing some posts elsewhere on this forum, I pulled the trigger on the all leather version of this wheel. It looks good right out of the box but the square shape of the grip is not comfortable. It’s almost as if someone cut out some plywood circles, rounded the edges a bit, and then wrapped it. For now, I’m sticking with the oem wheel.
 

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