DIY Timing belt replacement??

[txzaphod]

I have a 2002 2wd SR5 with just over 90K.

I'm looking at replacing my timing belt. I haven't had a bit of trouble from the car. I use synthetic oil in the crankcase, and synthetic ATF when I changed the filter at 60K.

I've read about timing belts going much longer than 90K, but I have an extended warranty that I bought when I bought the car used (at 50K) just in case. If I don't make a claim they refund the price. So, with that in place, I figured that I should replace the timing belt at the factory interval.

I'm not going to be in a rush to do it, I have another car to drive in the mean time.

Are there any special tools or tips that make the job easier and ensure a more reliable outcome?

Should I replace the tensioner and idler wheels as well, what about the water pump?

Steve

 

[pat161]

I actually just did this last Weds on my 02 along with front and rear brakes and tranny fluid. And by I, what I mean is a friend who owns his own garage did the work while I hung out and helped here and there, aside from the tranny, that was all me!

While discussing what I should buy my friend suggested the following as we would already have access to these parts and I would kick myself if they went within the next 90k. Specifically T-belt related I replaced the following.

T-belt
Water Pump and gasket
T-stat and gasket
Both cam and crank oil seals
Both T-belt idler bearings
T-belt tensioner
All 3 drive belts

My water pump had been leaking and was caking other parts with dried up coolant. Once everything was all cleaned up and replaced it was amazing how quiet and smooth it ran, even my friend noted the difference. I am pretty mechanically inclined and given loads of time, all the tools, a shop and lift and a manual I would do the work myself. Its not easy and there are a lot of bolts to remove, some in tough locations, but its not rocket science either. The only special tools I can think of, things I wouldn't have, he used some kind of long bar with a chain on the end to hold the crank in place while removing the bolt and he had a special tool to seat the cam seals. Just keep in mind the crank bolt needs to be torqued to over 200 ft lbs, make sure you tighten it properly as if it backs off the lower end of your motor is done for.

 

[toytech76]

Pretty unnecesarry to replace all the idlers and oil seals if there isnt anything wrong with them. More times than none, if you start messing with oil seals that are ok, you end up creating leaks that wernt there before. Especially if you dont have much experience in doing that type of job. Alot of people say, replace it all since you are in there. I say dont. Sure something could go bad at some point but how are you to know? Hell, the whole motor COULD go bad too but you dont need to replace it just because it COULD go bad. Get a tbelt, W/P, tstat and drive belts. The tstat gasket comes with the W/P. You will need a special tool to compress the tbelt tensioner unless you feel like removing a ton of stuff to get the tensioner out to compress it. You will also need a chain wrench or other tool to hold the crank pulley when removing the crank bolt

 

[004Gunner]

FYI pat161, that was a chain wrench your friend was using to hold the crank pulley. How many cases of beer does your friend charge for a T-belt replacement? My runner is due for the same

txzaphod: Personally i'm replacing my water pump when I do mine at 115k but generally you do not need to replace the tensioner and idler pulleys with the timing belt. I also plan on replacing the accessory belts, radiator hoses, and thermostat at the same time. Do a search here for "t-belt" here and you should find a lot of more info. I like this guide too.

 

[pat161]

Chain wrench, got it, thanks.

I just did everything my friend said was a good idea while in there. He has about 30 years experience, about 6 years as a Toyota tech, so I trust him 100%.

 

[txzaphod]

Thanks for all the great information.

I still haven't done it, the car I've been driving gets about 20-30% better gas mileage, and these days that makes a difference.

It looks like I'm definitely doing the t-belt and the water pump and the drive belts. I'll have to take a look at the idlers and the tensioner when I have it apart.