DIY: Total Interior Cleaning

20034RunnerV84x2

20034RunnerV84x2

New member
So a few days ago I spilled a large coke (well I didn't the idiot in front of me did by slamming on breaks for no reason).

I decided I've owned my truck for over a year now, I've used one of these machines on the seats, and they came out practically brand new.

I got the Rug doctor, 64 Oz cleaning solution, and the hand held upholstery cleaner for a total of $49 and some change.

I got home, removed all of the seats (excluding the back seat seat backs, I couldn't get to the bolts) got all of the seats out, floor mats out, mixed the solution (1/4th a cup to 1 gallon per directions) and put it in the machine. (I used my regular vacuum to vac up loose dirt/ hair before using this Rug Doc) and went at it. It is very easy to use, and so far this is the turnout:
(Sorry, no before pics!)
ha2ydu4u.jpg
3e3unyja.jpg


And this is the color of the water after doing everything except the cloth on the door panels, seats, floor mats and cargo area.
ydenehaz.jpg


Ill be adding more as I go!
 
Register to hide this ad
Was it hard to take out the seats? I've never done it. I think I will need to be doing this after this winter. Kiddo's are very hard on interiors...I've been diligent in not letting them eat or drink anything that will stain or end up gooey. We will see how it goes.
 
it takes a maximum of 5 minutes to remove the seats. just bolts...

the hardest part is getting them out while not scratching your door handles...

just go VERY slow and take your time.

i clean my runner like this about 4 times a year, pending how much its needed. living in the desert sucks.
 
WOW! This is exactly what I need to do! Can you write up how to take the seats out/in? Also, What did you use to clean with?
 
I have power front seats, as standard on the SR5 V8 in 2006+, but from what I understand, it is one connector for all the electronics in the seats, in addition to the bolts that attaches the seat for those with power seats who are worried about doing this.
 
What a great idea! And so simple, as you say, take your time - after winter I'll do the same. Bought mine with a few small stains...wonder if this might be the magic touch to cleaning up those carpets after all.

Thanks!!
 
My only concern would be staining/saturation of the sound deadening insulation UNDER the carpeting. That foam stuff that's present in all automotive carpeting, much like the house hold stuff. That foam acts like a sponge and could still retain fluid that could seep up and more importantly corrode the interior away.

I know its just a coke, but in my mind its still a vector for corrosion even if it is only a small amount.
 
I see what you are saying Blackworks. It is amazing how much liquid is absorbed by the carpet and this padding over the years.I have used those rug doctor machines and I always make sure to shampoo the carpet then run it with no liquid over again so it can suck out as much moisture as possible. I then use a commercial blower used for drying out flood damage. You can rent them at most all hardware stores. I think if you just make sure to leave all the doors open for a good part of a sunny day that you would get it dry. I also once read an article in 4wheel off road where they used a bissel little green clean machine to clean out the interior of an older Dodge and it was truly amazing how clean the seats came out.
 
zonianbrat said:
I see what you are saying Blackworks. It is amazing how much liquid is absorbed by the carpet and this padding over the years.I have used those rug doctor machines and I always make sure to shampoo the carpet then run it with no liquid over again so it can suck out as much moisture as possible. I then use a commercial blower used for drying out flood damage. You can rent them at most all hardware stores. I think if you just make sure to leave all the doors open for a good part of a sunny day that you would get it dry. I also once read an article in 4wheel off road where they used a bissel little green clean machine to clean out the interior of an older Dodge and it was truly amazing how clean the seats came out.
Click to expand...

I did the same last summer with my seats, and to dry them turned the heat to high and they were dry in a few minutes with the 110* temps outside... LOL!

Ill take finishing pics tomorrow & answer the Q's you all have. I was very simple, 4 bolts for the front seats & 2 electrical connections. The back seats were just as easy to take out, getting them back I correctly was a different story, but my ghetto seat covers didn't help!
 
Trevloc said:
it takes a maximum of 5 minutes to remove the seats. just bolts...

the hardest part is getting them out while not scratching your door handles...

just go VERY slow and take your time.

i clean my runner like this about 4 times a year, pending how much its needed. living in the desert sucks.
Click to expand...

Living in the salty Southern Ontario winter sucks. It's not just the chassis and everything else outside that gets salt sprayed but inside: the seat frames, interior trim screws and anything else mounted to the floor rusts from salty footwear.
 
The only issue is seat foam will absorb moisture and can become a sponge, just because you dry the outside layer doesn't mean its absolutely dry. Even in 114* weather. I had a Volvo that had a problem with moisture getting in, the seats felt fine after detail dried out the car for a couple days. But when I went to replace the airbag unit inside of the seat the seat frame was rotting where the wet foam was contacting it. All the foam INSIDE of the seat was still very wet and took another day to dry after I had torn the seat down completely.

I like your method Zonian, sounds very good! I'll have to try that out sometime.

I've toyed around with the idea of just replacing the entire carpet with something like a vinyl bottom or shaving the existing carpet structure down and coating it in rhino liner (I still want to provide a protective cover for the wiring and such that's easily to get to versus having to chip off the liner or leave them exposed.
 
BlackWorksInc said:
The only issue is seat foam will absorb moisture and can become a sponge, just because you dry the outside layer doesn't mean its absolutely dry. Even in 114* weather. I had a Volvo that had a problem with moisture getting in, the seats felt fine after detail dried out the car for a couple days. But when I went to replace the airbag unit inside of the seat the seat frame was rotting where the wet foam was contacting it. All the foam INSIDE of the seat was still very wet and took another day to dry after I had torn the seat down completely.

I like your method Zonian, sounds very good! I'll have to try that out sometime.

I've toyed around with the idea of just replacing the entire carpet with something like a vinyl bottom or shaving the existing carpet structure down and coating it in rhino liner (I still want to provide a protective cover for the wiring and such that's easily to get to versus having to chip off the liner or leave them exposed.
Click to expand...

Those rug doctor machines suck up just about all of the moisture that it puts down.
 
automotive carpet has an impermeable layer between the insulation your speaking about and the actual top layer of carpet. If you spill a drink in the house yes it soaks to the wood under the carpet. If you spill a coke in a vehicle the top layer of carpet absorbs the liquid. (now yes if you were to flood the vehicle the insulation on the underside of the carpet will get wet to) but surface spills are mainly just on the upper carpet upholstery layer and can be easily cleaned with a steam cleaner or shampooing device, your not adding enough volume of water to the carpet to get past the vinyl layer between the insulation and the carpet.

on the topic though I just pull all my carpet sections out and pressure wash them hang them out on a clothes line and let them dry and whip out dirt and grim build up from breathers under the carpet and around the body mount holes.
 
yep, the reasoning behind it though convenient isn't to help keep drinks off the interior of the body. If you just had carpet laid directly to the metal surface condensation from the differentiating temperatures of outside and inside the vehicle would absorb into the carpet thus causing mold. (similar to the condensation on a beer can absorbing into the paper towels bar tenders seem to think make perfect coasters lol)

adding a layer of insulation topped with a vinyl layer provides an air gap under the actual carpet allowing condensation to exist but also dry without creating moisture build up which would create mold. The vinyl layer keeps liquids out and in at the same time lol just like say a vapor barrier on the inside of an exterior wall to a house.
 
aha2988 said:
yep, the reasoning behind it though convenient isn't to help keep drinks off the interior of the body. If you just had carpet laid directly to the metal surface condensation from the differentiating temperatures of outside and inside the vehicle would absorb into the carpet thus causing mold. (similar to the condensation on a beer can absorbing into the paper towels bar tenders seem to think make perfect coasters lol)

adding a layer of insulation topped with a vinyl layer provides an air gap under the actual carpet allowing condensation to exist but also dry without creating moisture build up which would create mold. The vinyl layer keeps liquids out and in at the same time lol just like say a vapor barrier on the inside of an exterior wall to a house.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this. I've always wondered why mold doesn't build up in the floors of my cars...

On a related note, I've got an industrial carpet cleaner available to me and will have to clean my brand new (to me ) 4Runner.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 321 (members: 2, guests: 319)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,046
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top