Do I have a bad head gasket?

[mkzg]

So...I hope I’m wrong...

1997 4runner 3.4l, 212k

Just installed a 1st gen blower on it. I think my head gasket let go.

So before installing the blower, I drained the coolant and thought it smelled a bit like exhaust/fuel. It was filthy also which surprised me being I changed in 2yrs ago. Figured it was old rust buildup that was getting cleaned out. Finished the install of the blower, and after a few hundred miles I’ve developed a cylinder 2 misfire after it warms up. No misfire when cold. Also, coolant just disappears to the abyss. Half a gallon lost after a 20 mile drive. No overheating until the coolant is too low, don’t notice white smoke coming out the tailpipe and also don’t see any fluid buildup underneath or on the engine.

Also, when it’s running there is a steady stream of bubbles coming to the radiator when I have the cap off.

No oil mixes with coolant in either radiator or crankcase

Did my head gasket finally let go after the extra pressure from the blower?

 

[T4R2014]

It was on its way out regardless.

 

[mtbtim]

Also, when it’s running there is a steady stream of bubbles coming to the radiator when I have the cap off.

Certainly the supercharger (not a blower) didn't help your engine limp along a little longer. But, your head gasket was going to go sometime soon most likely.

Your head gasket is toast. You have two choices, pull the heads, possibly having to replace one or both if they are cracked, and install new head gaskets. This is a very labor intensive job but it can be done.

Or, you grab another motor from somewhere and do an engine swap. I don't have experience doing a head gasket job, but I have assisted in pulling a motor and trans from one of these rigs and I pretty much think the motor swap would be the easier of the two. But, it could be a lot more expensive. It's it's just a bad head gasket and your heads are ok, you're just talking mostly labor to do the head gasket.

 

[MarkBlack]

It sounds like its done, a trick I was taught is to,
Fill your radiator up completely with water and see if it produces air bubbles. My mechanic showed me this when my honda blew a head gasket.

Also my mechanic is located in garden grove. Hes about half the price of a shop if you want him to check it out let shoot me a PM. And i can get you his info.

 

[Mackalicious]

It's most likely your HG. Could potentially be a cylinder wall crack too, so if you replace the HG inspect the cylinder walls of #2.

Cheap insurance is to grab some ARP headstuds or bolts vs OEM head bolts if ARP makes them, since youre boosting.

 

[STI_MECE]

Lol this sounds oddly familiar. I had the exact same problems you had except without the misfire.

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[APhelps]

I'm located in San Diego and if you have the space to pull the engine I'd gladly help you.

 

[mkzg]

I started looking for replacement engines...I don’t really want to pull the heads.

I did fill it up with water and I get a constant stream of bubbles...

I have to find space to do the job. I don’t have off street parking in San Diego, so I’ll have to arrange a location I can pull it out. I’ve don’t motors on many other cars, so the job doesn’t scare me, just the space/location to do it is the challenge.

 

[mkzg]

It's most likely your HG. Could potentially be a cylinder wall crack too, so if you replace the HG inspect the cylinder walls of #2.

Cheap insurance is to grab some ARP headstuds or bolts vs OEM head bolts if ARP makes them, since youre boosting.

Is it worth putting arp studs on a replacement low mile engine? I’m not a fan of opening factory sealed engines


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[APhelps]

Is it worth putting arp studs on a replacement low mile engine? I’m not a fan of opening factory sealed engines


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I haven't boosted my 4runner but I don't think there's a problem with the head lifting from the block.

 

[Mackalicious]

Is it worth putting arp studs on a replacement low mile engine? I’m not a fan of opening factory sealed engines


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Yeah if you have the expendable income. It's only beneficial to do that. If it were me, i'd do some research and get a head gasket that's a touch thicker. Try to drop the compression by like a half a point and install the ARP bolts. studs are better if they are offered.

But unless you are really set on replacing the engine for other reasons than the leak, I would just put a new head gasket on and see if that fixes it. Though if you are paying a shop, you might as well just swap the engine for a fresher one instead of paying for a head gasket job on a high mileage engine and possibly finding its bad.

I wouldn't pay more than about $2500 for the engine and install from a shop, unless its a new engine.

 

[Mackalicious]

I haven't boosted my 4runner but I don't think there's a problem with the head lifting from the block.

For the price, it's worth spending the money on better clamping force. unless its like $500 for a set. Also, not sure if the OEMs are torque to yield, if they are, thats another reason for the arp

 

[mkzg]

For the price, it's worth spending the money on better clamping force. unless its like $500 for a set. Also, not sure if the OEMs are torque to yield, if they are, thats another reason for the arp

Arp studs are about $250 for the 5vz. I’m leaving towards a low miles engine swap instead of gasket replacement. I’ve got 212k on it, and boosted now too.

Would it be ok to buy the arp studs and put them in a 99+ motor, by swapping one stud/bolt at a time and not change the HG? The goal here is to have the updated HG from Toyota on a low mile motor.

From my research, looks like 99+ have MLS (multi layer steel) gaskets and pre 98 were composite?




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[APhelps]

For the price, it's worth spending the money on better clamping force. unless its like $500 for a set. Also, not sure if the OEMs are torque to yield, if they are, thats another reason for the arp

If you aren't experiencing any issues with the head lifting you're just wasting your money. Plus a lot of studs require you to re-torque them after the fact.

Most people aren't running enough boost to justify them. People are more than welcome to spend their money to how they see fit but it's not an issue that I'm aware for most of the people who are S/Ced.

 

[APhelps]

Arp studs are about $250 for the 5vz. I’m leaving towards a low miles engine swap instead of gasket replacement. I’ve got 212k on it, and boosted now too.

Would it be ok to buy the arp studs and put them in a 99+ motor, by swapping one stud/bolt at a time and not change the HG? The goal here is to have the updated HG from Toyota on a low mile motor.

From my research, looks like 99+ have MLS (multi layer steel) gaskets and pre 98 were composite?

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From my understanding with MLS, it's pretty imperative to deck the block.

MLS Head Gaskets: There's More To It Than Just Bolting Them In Place

 

[gamefreakgc]

Is it worth putting arp studs on a replacement low mile engine? I’m not a fan of opening factory sealed engines


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No. Stock 5VZ-FE's with stock bolts can handle up to 15 PSI on a daily driver. You'll be nowhere near that, around 6-7 PSI.

Don't drop compression either. Lower compression = less power and will defeat the point of supercharging.

 

[Mackalicious]

No. Stock 5VZ-FE's with stock bolts can handle up to 15 PSI on a daily driver. You'll be nowhere near that, around 6-7 PSI.

Don't drop compression either. Lower compression = less power and will defeat the point of supercharging.

lowering compression is only counterproductive if you are trying to spool a turbo at a lower rpm or don't want to up the boost past stock. Otherwise dropping static compression is beneficial. i've been up 30 hours so I need some sleep, but I can explain why later if you want.

Stock bolts on most cars can probably handle close to 15psi. My point is it is extra insurance if he wants that with the extra clamping force and reusability.

 

[Mackalicious]

From my understanding with MLS, it's pretty imperative to deck the block.

MLS Head Gaskets: There's More To It Than Just Bolting Them In Place

As long as the engine wasn't overheated, dont worry about it.

youl'd have to disassemble the block completely to deck it. At that point you may as well pull your engine you have now and rebuild it completely. same for the head.

You also have the option of disregarding everything i've said any listen to the other people that say swap the engine without doing anything to prep it for boost, bolt the supercharger on and let it rip. You should do a little research on this, not just 4runner or toyota specific, but on engines and prepping for boost and make your own informed decision. Factor in your goals, wants, and constraints.

Decide how much power you want, do you want to turn the boost up ever? Budget, etc. If you plan to run stock boost levels permanently, You shouldn't have a prob just dropping the low mile engine in as long as everything's good on it.

 

[gamefreakgc]

lowering compression is only counterproductive if you are trying to spool a turbo at a lower rpm or don't want to up the boost past stock. Otherwise dropping static compression is beneficial. i've been up 30 hours so I need some sleep, but I can explain why later if you want.

Stock bolts on most cars can probably handle close to 15psi. My point is it is extra insurance if he wants that with the extra clamping force and reusability.

Yes, I do understand the concept and for a lot of engines that did not come with a OEM option to convert to forced induction, that is very true. Can help with the longevity of the engine.

However the 5VZ-FE was designed to handle boost. Lowering the compression isn't necessary.

 

[mkzg]

As long as the engine wasn't overheated, dont worry about it.

youl'd have to disassemble the block completely to deck it. At that point you may as well pull your engine you have now and rebuild it completely. same for the head.

You also have the option of disregarding everything i've said any listen to the other people that say swap the engine without doing anything to prep it for boost, bolt the supercharger on and let it rip. You should do a little research on this, not just 4runner or toyota specific, but on engines and prepping for boost and make your own informed decision. Factor in your goals, wants, and constraints.

Decide how much power you want, do you want to turn the boost up ever? Budget, etc. If you plan to run stock boost levels permanently, You shouldn't have a prob just dropping the low mile engine in as long as everything's good on it.

Yea that’s what I’m thinking too. Being stock parts are good up to 15ish psi, I’m not planning on doing more than 10psi. I’m not a fan of rebuilt engines, I’d rather find a good low mile used one and I’m leaning that way.


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