Do I need new brake rotors?

[trdrun]

Front driver side. Do I need new brake rotors? Or can it be resurfaced? Any recommendations on new rotors (specific brands and models would be helpful? Slotted and drilled for better heat dissipation? Cheers.

 

[IanB]

What happened to this rotor to cause that damage?

Slotted and drilled if you'll be taking this truck to the track for hotlaps, otherwise a good quality blank rotor is best IMO (more surface area for pad to act on, bigger heatsink).

 

[Nashvegas34]

If you're going to get new rotors (and pads to go with them), might as well go ahead and do the Tundra upgrade if you haven't already. Both the 199s and 231s are an improvement over stock.

 

[TheDurk]

I doubt anyone will agree to turn that one with the crack/hole in it, or that you would have minimum thickness when you are done. I personally would not even try.

But if you trust your shop and they say it's good to turn, turn ahead.

 

[Gerdo]

Doesn't look good to me.

I'm replacing mine with Brembo blanks. I hear that they are more stable and don't warp like the stockers. Brake Rotors :: Brakes :: Import Replacement Parts

I'm also going to use Hawk SuperDuty pads. Brake Pads :: Brakes :: Import Replacement Parts

All from Import Replacement Parts Import Replacement Parts | Import Performance & OEM Parts They are informed to get you the right parts and at competitive prices.

 

[trdrun]

IanB: No idea what happened.

I heard that even the brembo blanks are also prone to warpage. I want to do the Tundra brake upgrade, but it seems like it's out of my budget range for the time being. Will the Tundra calipers fit when using the OEM split 3-spoke 16" rims?

 

[trdrun]

Doesn't look good to me.

I'm replacing mine with Brembo blanks. I hear that they are more stable and don't warp like the stockers. Brake Rotors :: Brakes :: Import Replacement Parts

I'm also going to use Hawk SuperDuty pads. Brake Pads :: Brakes :: Import Replacement Parts

All from Import Replacement Parts Import Replacement Parts | Import Performance & OEM Parts They are informed to get you the right parts and at competitive prices.

Are the quality of aftermarket pads comparable to the toyota OEM pads? While I was checking the rotors, I've noticed the toyota OEM pads still had ~50% lining left, and the last time the brakes have been serviced was about 2-3 yrs.

 

[e-caban]

I think power slots are the best, I got mine from tirerack.com easy install.

 

[Gerdo]

You can have my factory rotors. They do pulse so they will need turning. You pay for shipping and they are yours.

They are from my 2000 sport with 16" wheels, the bigger brakes.

 

[Nashvegas34]

IanB: No idea what happened.

I heard that even the brembo blanks are also prone to warpage. I want to do the Tundra brake upgrade, but it seems like it's out of my budget range for the time being. Will the Tundra calipers fit when using the OEM split 3-spoke 16" rims?

There are a ton of threads about this in the forum, but the 199mm calipers will fit the stock 16" rims with no modification. I believe the 231mm calipers require some grinding of the stock wheel, but they fit other wheels. See my signature - I have the 199s, Brembo blanks, and Akebono pads. I have had no warping issues after more than a year.

 

[trdrun]

You can have my factory rotors. They do pulse so they will need turning. You pay for shipping and they are yours.

They are from my 2000 sport with 16" wheels, the bigger brakes.

I appreciate the offer Gerdo. I might try and save up for the Tundra upgrade though if that's a way to permanently solve this rotor warping issue.

Thanks for the info nashvegas.

 

[whipkiller]

On a side-note, is that you in your avatar photo?

Looks like the big hip in the middle of the hill at Bear Mountain, yes?

Airing it out pretty good there.

 

[Qyota]

It is very rare for a rotor to actually "warp", in the sense that it is misshapen. What actually happens is uneven material transfer. During normal braking, some of the pad material is worn off, and some of the rotor material is worn off. However, due to many circumstances (heat, foreign substances like greasy/oily fingerprints, etc), the material transfer from the pad to the rotor can be uneven. The best way to combat this is to bed the brakes properly, then follow good braking habits. For example, when coming to a complete stop from high speed, don't sit with your foot hard on the brake at the stoplight. Brake smoothly to a crawl, then slowly let the vehicle move forward for several feet, allowing the brakes to cool without being completely stopped. Many times what happens is the hot pad creates a very hot spot on the rotor and the transferred material changes somehow. You then get patches on the rotor that have varying degrees of friction, and you get pulses in the pedal.

ALL brake rotors can suffer this fate. There is no magic rotor (e.g. Tundra rotor) that will completely absolve this issue. It is largely a brake bedding and use issue.

Another thing is, when doing maintenance on the front wheels, be sure you clean the rotors well after touching them with greasy hands. Greasy/oily prints on the rotors can also cause issues with material transfer.

But yes, judging by the photos, you certainly need new rotors.

 

[trdrun]

On a side-note, is that you in your avatar photo?

Looks like the big hip in the middle of the hill at Bear Mountain, yes?

Airing it out pretty good there.

Nah, not me. Wish it were though. No idea on the location. Though I do hit up Bear Mtn often. I should probably change that photo to something more 4Runner relevant.

It is very rare for a rotor to actually "warp", in the sense that it is misshapen. What actually happens is uneven material transfer. During normal braking, some of the pad material is worn off, and some of the rotor material is worn off. However, due to many circumstances (heat, foreign substances like greasy/oily fingerprints, etc), the material transfer from the pad to the rotor can be uneven. The best way to combat this is to bed the brakes properly, then follow good braking habits. For example, when coming to a complete stop from high speed, don't sit with your foot hard on the brake at the stoplight. Brake smoothly to a crawl, then slowly let the vehicle move forward for several feet, allowing the brakes to cool without being completely stopped. Many times what happens is the hot pad creates a very hot spot on the rotor and the transferred material changes somehow. You then get patches on the rotor that have varying degrees of friction, and you get pulses in the pedal.

ALL brake rotors can suffer this fate. There is no magic rotor (e.g. Tundra rotor) that will completely absolve this issue. It is largely a brake bedding and use issue.

Another thing is, when doing maintenance on the front wheels, be sure you clean the rotors well after touching them with greasy hands. Greasy/oily prints on the rotors can also cause issues with material transfer.

But yes, judging by the photos, you certainly need new rotors.

Good to know about the bedding and greasy hands. I was definitely feeling up the rotor and gave no second thought to wiping it down as I reassembled everything.

 

[TheDurk]

^^Qyota's post is good stuff. Let me also add the importance of hand-torquing your lugs. I'm a flatlander, so I don't stress my brakes like some, but I have never had a warpage problem on original shoes, drums and rotors after 143K and 13 years (second set of pads.) I believe obsessive hand torquing to spec (83 ft-lbs) since Day 1 helped achieve this.

Every time some greasemonkey takes an impact to your lugs he is killing your rotors. Don't let this happen. Also, good rear brake maintenance will ensure that the fronts don't have to carry the entire load.

 

[djbrand1]

Those rotors are probably way past the minimum thickness to crack/crumble like that. Probably chewed up your pads too. Replace with some blank Brembo replacements. No need for drilled/slotted on these trucks unless you really want it for looks.

 

[shadow247]

I would go with the TRD brake upgrade. You definitely need new rotors and pads, and you can just get a set of Loaded Calipers that come with brake pads already installed. Loaded calipers are about 125 each, rotors are between 80 and 130 depending on what you get. You can upgrade your front brakes for about 400 bucks. You could also check a junkyard and get used calipers and rotors then just add some new brake pads for less. You will need to turn the used rotors.

 

[trdrun]

^^Qyota's post is good stuff. Let me also add the importance of hand-torquing your lugs. I'm a flatlander, so I don't stress my brakes like some, but I have never had a warpage problem on original shoes, drums and rotors after 143K and 13 years (second set of pads.) I believe obsessive hand torquing to spec (83 ft-lbs) since Day 1 helped achieve this.

Every time some greasemonkey takes an impact to your lugs he is killing your rotors. Don't let this happen. Also, good rear brake maintenance will ensure that the fronts don't have to carry the entire load.

Now that you mention it, I've got some new tires installed at Discount Tires about 3 months back, and I've only noticed my brakes shuddering after that (about 2 months after the tire install). But the last time my brakes were serviced was at a brake shop 2-3 years ago, so I can't say for sure that Discount Tires caused the damage. Although, I would assume that they have the torque specs. Good note about the torquing. I just bought a Black Jack Torin Torque Wrench from Walmart, any one knows if this is accurate enough? Couldn't resist the cheap less than $30 price tag.

 

[trdrun]

Those rotors are probably way past the minimum thickness to crack/crumble like that. Probably chewed up your pads too. Replace with some blank Brembo replacements. No need for drilled/slotted on these trucks unless you really want it for looks.

Perhaps they are. I'll measure the rotor thickness when I install the new rotors. The pads are still looking good though.

 

[TheDurk]

Now that you mention it, I've got some new tires installed at Discount Tires about 3 months back, and I've only noticed my brakes shuddering after that (about 2 months after the tire install). But the last time my brakes were serviced was at a brake shop 2-3 years ago, so I can't say for sure that Discount Tires caused the damage. Although, I would assume that they have the torque specs. Good note about the torquing. I just bought a Black Jack Torin Torque Wrench from Walmart, any one knows if this is accurate enough? Couldn't resist the cheap less than $30 price tag.

dunno. I use a Snap-on I got on e-Bay used and then had calibrated. Still cost $150 all together. Some auto-parts stores will check them. Or borrow a good one from a friend and see if it is close. Even tightening is more important than exact torque on lugs, as long as it is tight enough.