Do LR UCA's Give More Clearance?

CXS

Senior Member
That's a question that I never really found an answer for until today when I got mine installed. The answer is "a little" which was all I needed to eliminate the small amount of rubbing I had previously.

Now I'm real happy since the combination of FJC steelies combined with LR UCA's was enough to eliminate running spacers and now my alignment is in spec. which was the primary reason for them. Should help the longevity of my 285/70-17 Duratracs.
 
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That's a question that I never really found an answer for until today when I got mine installed. The answer is "a little" which was all I needed to eliminate the small amount of rubbing I had previously.

Now I'm real happy since the combination of FJC steelies combined with LR UCA's was enough to eliminate running spacers and now my alignment is in spec. which was the primary reason for them. Should help the longevity of my 285/70-17 Duratracs.

It's probably the same idea as it is on my 5th gen but...it really all depends on how you setup the upper ball joint to dial in your alignment.

Let's just use an example here...say your larger diameter tire is rubbing on the body mount but not the front fender liner. In this scenario you want to first set the ball joint forward a little more (ie. position "E" or "F"); and then set the LCA adjustment cams to increase the caster back to factory spec. This would effectively keep the caster dialed to within spec, while at the same time move the entire tire position forward a bit in the wheel well. Same idea can be done if it's rubbing on the front and not the body mount.

The thing you have to be careful about is dialing too much positive caster via the UCA ball joint because it situates the wheel much further back in the wheel well and will end up making you rub on the body mount. So even though the option is there to add +4 degrees of caster (position "A"), most people rarely go past the +2 mark (position "D").

Same goes for the camber adjustment, you can push or pull the whole tire inwards or outwards if you happen to have some peculiar clearance issue. I would be careful about pushing it all the way inwards though (max negative camber) because I think the ball joint boots eventually start to rub on the coils. I left mine set to pretty much the middle and the ball joint boot clearance seems to be okay :noidea:
 
That's a question that I never really found an answer for until today when I got mine installed. The answer is "a little" which was all I needed to eliminate the small amount of rubbing I had previously.

Now I'm real happy since the combination of FJC steelies combined with LR UCA's was enough to eliminate running spacers and now my alignment is in spec. which was the primary reason for them. Should help the longevity of my 285/70-17 Duratracs.
Basically, as [MENTION=85512]eddiebx[/MENTION] said, it CAN, but it depends on the setup.

It's probably the same idea as it is on my 5th gen but...it really all depends on how you setup the upper ball joint to dial in your alignment.

Let's just use an example here...say your larger diameter tire is rubbing on the body mount but not the front fender liner. In this scenario you want to first set the ball joint forward a little more (ie. position "E" or "F"); and then set the LCA adjustment cams to increase the caster back to factory spec. This would effectively keep the caster dialed to within spec, while at the same time move the entire tire position forward a bit in the wheel well. Same idea can be done if it's rubbing on the front and not the body mount.

The thing you have to be careful about is dialing too much positive caster via the UCA ball joint because it situates the wheel much further back in the wheel well and will end up making you rub on the body mount. So even though the option is there to add +4 degrees of caster (position "A"), most people rarely go past the +2 mark (position "D").

Same goes for the camber adjustment, you can push or pull the whole tire inwards or outwards if you happen to have some peculiar clearance issue. I would be careful about pushing it all the way inwards though (max negative camber) because I think the ball joint boots eventually start to rub on the coils. I left mine set to pretty much the middle and the ball joint boot clearance seems to be okay :noidea:
GREAT explanation of it, taught me something :P
 
Im really liking this arms as well. Great adjust-ability, value and its noise free. It seems like its very similar in droop to my old TC uni balls as well. It does offer more clearance as well.
 

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