Dobinson UCA

Register to hide this ad
I recently did this job. You'll likely find that Dobinsons sells the replacement bushings that may or may not be out of stock, but the OEM Toyota option exists as well. I haven't put up my experience on this site yet, but I'm happy to answer any questions.

It is not a fun job- not having a press, I got loaner tools from Autozone that weren't very helpful, and then a press from Harbor Freight, but still struggled to find a viable piece to actually press the old bushing out with. Ultimately I used an impact metric long socket to push it out using a bearing removal tool and press cups/various adapters to make the lengths work. I can see why not many have done this unless it was only removing the rubber for poly.

Ok, I suppose it's time to get the pics up..
 
I recently did this job. You'll likely find that Dobinsons sells the replacement bushings that may or may not be out of stock, but the OEM Toyota option exists as well. I haven't put up my experience on this site yet, but I'm happy to answer any questions.

It is not a fun job- not having a press, I got loaner tools from Autozone that weren't very helpful, and then a press from Harbor Freight, but still struggled to find a viable piece to actually press the old bushing out with. Ultimately I used an impact metric long socket to push it out using a bearing removal tool and press cups/various adapters to make the lengths work. I can see why not many have done this unless it was only removing the rubber for poly.

Ok, I suppose it's time to get the pics up..


Max, thanks. I do all my own work anyway so not an issue as far as tooling. I have a 20 ton hyd press and plenty of bushing removal kits plus sockets too. My real question is/was if they bushings installed in the Dobinson UCA are stock toyota style (same durometer) or are they some top secret Dobby sauce. Also any dimensions for the Dobby bushings (if that is what you used) ?
 
Max, thanks. I do all my own work anyway so not an issue as far as tooling. I have a 20 ton hyd press and plenty of bushing removal kits plus sockets too. My real question is/was if they bushings installed in the Dobinson UCA are stock toyota style (same durometer) or are they some top secret Dobby sauce. Also any dimensions for the Dobby bushings (if that is what you used) ?

Sounds like you're better situated than I was! I was trying to be gentle on the painted finish before realizing I will never do this again. I used the OEM toyota bushings (48632-60040), as the Dobinson's option was out of stock. I had done a bunch of measurement checks with the arms installed but determined them to be identical in design and size. I don't have data on durometer, but I had no indication that they were any different.

The Toyota bushing shell is 46.25mm diameter below the flange vs the Dobinson's which were just slightly under that (maybe ~.25mm). It appears I just threw the old ones out and cannot confirm the exact measurement, sorry about that. The only difference I could really see was after they were pressed in, the inner rubber ring looked to be bulging but only just slightly. If anything, that inner sleeve is just more firm in place. Sanding the inner paint off made for an easier install on the second arm.
 
Happy to help! Yea either kind will work. Out of curiosity, how did you wear yours out and also determine they needed swapping?
 
Happy to help! Yea either kind will work. Out of curiosity, how did you wear yours out and also determine they needed swapping?

I was looking for a clunk. I thought it was another UBJ but they are both good. While I was moving all those parts around with a pry bar I noticed the UCA was moving so focused on those bushings. I retorqued the long through bolt and I'm driving it a while to see if that clunck comes back or gets worse. I want to have everything in place before I take the UCAs out (if that is required). I can get good quality stock bushings cheaper than the Dobinson. I wheel a lot so things have to be right before I head out.
 
I was looking for a clunk. I thought it was another UBJ but they are both good. While I was moving all those parts around with a pry bar I noticed the UCA was moving so focused on those bushings. I retorqued the long through bolt and I'm driving it a while to see if that clunck comes back or gets worse. I want to have everything in place before I take the UCAs out (if that is required). I can get good quality stock bushings cheaper than the Dobinson. I wheel a lot so things have to be right before I head out.

While having to retorque the nut on the long bolt is a pain, maybe you can inspect the outside face of the aft bushings. I was able to see tearing which is what started me down the path. (Yes, this is the front bushing, but it was a clear pic)
zxnZaBw.jpeg


Ultimately, these arms are solid but from the day I installed them, I feel like I've been fighting with steering wander while sitting around 3.6 caster. Sometimes wonder if I should've repaired the SPCs I had on but at the time I thought a more OEM style with the Dobbies would make thing easier.
 
While having to retorque the nut on the long bolt is a pain, maybe you can inspect the outside face of the aft bushings. I was able to see tearing which is what started me down the path. (Yes, this is the front bushing, but it was a clear pic)
zxnZaBw.jpeg


Ultimately, these arms are solid but from the day I installed them, I feel like I've been fighting with steering wander while sitting around 3.6 caster. Sometimes wonder if I should've repaired the SPCs I had on but at the time I thought a more OEM style with the Dobbies would make thing easier.

Thanks, yes finding the culprit can be difficult. I take a wheel off and then lower that side down onto a jack stand then use a pry bar to move things around. I even taped my cell phone to a magnet and took a video while driving (found the LCA bushings toasted). Toe out can produce wander, also double check your INNER tie rod ends (there is a ball joint under the rubber boot)
 
Thanks, yes finding the culprit can be difficult. I take a wheel off and then lower that side down onto a jack stand then use a pry bar to move things around. I even taped my cell phone to a magnet and took a video while driving (found the LCA bushings toasted). Toe out can produce wander, also double check your INNER tie rod ends (there is a ball joint under the rubber boot)

I'll have to try out a pry test of my 5yr old LCA bushings. I had changed outer tie rods and 1 inner last year but they were fine to begin with (though I do have a creak when turning at low speed for the moment I swapped that ITR lol). The entire rack is only ~5yrs old with ~30k on-road miles so it would be a sad but impressive situation if the internals of the rack were messed up.

Have you decided what you want to do? I'd love to see how your bushing swap comes along.
 
One of my bushings is toast after only 25,000 miles. They may be OEM style, but they certainly aren't OEM quality. I'll be replacing the bushings with genuine Toyota parts.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,050
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top