Dodging the strawberry milkshake

[Sup41]

Alright..so I've seen a lot of conflicting views in my searches so far. Some are saying to just buy a tranny cooler (and to bypass or not to bypass). Others are saying after 10-12 years your radiator should be replaced anyway (mine is an 02 so...15 years @ 150k). And finally, some are saying both.

Thoughts?

 

[pluton]

It's a cheap Aluminum and plastic radiator. It is known to corrode through in the trans oil cooler area. Why debate?....replace! You can do it yourself(alone) in a couple or three hours (including draining and refilling the coolant, replacing the hoses and thermostat) using common tools.
I replaced mine when I got the truck at 16 years/120K miles. And mine's a 5-speed.

 

[StreetCreeper]

Alright..so I've seen a lot of conflicting views in my searches so far. Some are saying to just buy a tranny cooler (and to bypass or not to bypass). Others are saying after 10-12 years your radiator should be replaced anyway (mine is an 02 so...15 years @ 150k). And finally, some are saying both.

Thoughts?

If you want your tranny temps to be lower – add a tranny cooler and mount it in-series with with your old radiator. This will not reduce your chances of a pink milkshake though.

If you want your transmission to "potentially" run cooler and "potentially" run hotter but totally avoid a pink milkshake – then run a tranny cooler and bypass the radiator.

If you want to greatly reduce your chances of a pink milkshake while maintaining factory cooling for the transmission – then replace your radiator and run the tranny cooler lines like normal into the new radiator.

If you want your tranny temps to be lower and greatly reduce the chance of a pink milkshake – then add a tranny cooler and mount it in-series with with your new radiator. This will reduce your chances of a pink milkshake and help your tranny temps with additional cooling ability, but doesn't rule out the possibility of a pink milkshake – especially as the years go by and the radiator gets older.

In my oppinion though, this last option is the best option. Just flush your cooling system yearly and replace the radiator when appropriate.

 

[thegipper]

Replace your radiator right away no matter what. This will make it highly unlikely that you will get a pink milkshake in the near future. If you want absolute confidence that it will never happen than bypass the stock tranny cooler and install an aftermarket one.

Either way, you should still replace your radiator.

 

[tvpierce]

Alright..so I've seen a lot of conflicting views in my searches so far. Some are saying to just buy a tranny cooler (and to bypass or not to bypass). Others are saying after 10-12 years your radiator should be replaced anyway (mine is an 02 so...15 years @ 150k). And finally, some are saying both.

Thoughts?

Replace the radiator ASAP!

My '02 had about 140K miles when the trans cooler gave out. Turned a 2-3 hour job into a 2-3 day job. :ybrick: The replacement Denso radiator was $110 shipped from Rock Auto. I spent twice that in transmission fluid alone to flush it out.

BTW: The fittings are what fail on these Toyota in-radiator coolers -- it's a really bad design.

Do you do a lot of heavy towing? If not, don't bother with adding and aftermarket cooler. (IMHO)

 

[Killer Squirrel]

According to the service records I got when I bought my truck, the radiator was replaced about 2 years ago. Even so, the peace of mind is just too cheap at $120 for a new OEM radiator, so I replaced it anyway. Glad I got one too, because when I drained the coolant it looked pretty gnarly, so there is no telling what shape the cooling system was in. If you just got the truck, just get a new radiator. If you want added protection get a tranny cooler like the others said. I installed my cooler inline, I think the truck will run better that way and I plan to monitor and change out the fluids regularly.

 

[Hardizzy]

If you want your tranny temps to be lower – add a tranny cooler and mount it in-series with with your old radiator. This will not reduce your chances of a pink milkshake though.

If you want your transmission to "potentially" run cooler and "potentially" run hotter but totally avoid a pink milkshake – then run a tranny cooler and bypass the radiator.

If you want to greatly reduce your chances of a pink milkshake while maintaining factory cooling for the transmission – then replace your radiator and run the tranny cooler lines like normal into the new radiator.

If you want your tranny temps to be lower and greatly reduce the chance of a pink milkshake – then add a tranny cooler and mount it in-series with with your new radiator. This will reduce your chances of a pink milkshake and help your tranny temps with additional cooling ability, but doesn't rule out the possibility of a pink milkshake – especially as the years go by and the radiator gets older.

In my oppinion though, this last option is the best option. Just flush your cooling system yearly and replace the radiator when appropriate.

I've got a tranny cooler bypassing the radiator. Now that summer is around, I'll see tranny temperatures pass 180F around ambient temperatures 85F+, which makes me uncomfortable -- 245k with the intention of reaching 400k+. Would you have an opinion on adding an external fan to tranny coolers?

 

[SpidermanGeek]

I've got a tranny cooler bypassing the radiator. Now that summer is around, I'll see tranny temperatures pass 180F around ambient temperatures 85F+, which makes me uncomfortable -- 245k with the intention of reaching 400k+. Would you have an opinion on adding an external fan to tranny coolers?

As long as temps stay under 200-220F, there's nothing to worry about.

Personally, with stand-alone (bypassed) tranny cooler, I have never seen my fluid temps go above 170F, even in the summer heat which regularly goes above 85F up here.

But, my rig has no armor or extra added weight other than my 285/75-16 tires and the only crawling I've ever done with it was in bumper to bumper traffic.

I worry more about my trans fluid being too cool in the winter as I rarely see my gauge being above 130F during those months.

Are you getting your trans temps from a ScanGaugeII or a more traditional gauge with an in-line sensor?

I strongly believe that the ScanGuageII OBDII readers are showing higher numbers. Since these typically vehicles only have dummy lights, I think the OEM sensors are calibrated a little high. I have no proof of this though. For all I know, maybe the in-line sensor type gauges are the ones that aren't accurate. Just something to ponder.

But back to the topic, I think how you chose to handle the pink milkshake avoidance really depends on many factors (geographical area, usage, mileage, age and condition of the radiator). Stand-alone cooling works for me as I only put my 4runner through light-duty tasks. I don't off-road or haul much if at all. It's my second vehicle, so isn't daily driven and I never go on long treks with it (farthest I've ever driven it was a 120-mile round trip).

 

[jgue467]

180 trans temp at 85 ambient is pretty good. I would say adding a fan doesn't help too much with a bypassed cooler alone.

When mine was only bypassed it would get into the lower 200s to 220 around town, climbing a mountain pass with overdrive on would yield 235+, didn't like that. Turning overdrive off almost instantly drops those temps to 195, so that's always an option.

Added a fan but temps wouldn't drop much more than 10 degrees (10" 80watt, curved blade w/2300cfm).

So I went back to replacing the radiator and kept the external cooler/fan setup.

I don't turn the fan on much anymore unless idling with the a/c on (helps a little but a/c works well anyway).

Now under the same conditions (100+ ambient) the trans temps don't go above 170-180 max with overdrive on. Luck and enjoy the runner. :cowboy:

 

[phattyduck]

I strongly believe that the ScanGuageII OBDII readers are showing higher numbers. Since these typically vehicles only have dummy lights, I think the OEM sensors are calibrated a little high. I have no proof of this though. For all I know, maybe the in-line sensor type gauges are the ones that aren't accurate. Just something to ponder.

The temp the OEM sensor reads is on the outlet to the cooler, right after it goes through the torque converter - it is the hottest fluid in (err... out of?) the trans. 200*F is not an issue, as the fluid is only at that temp for the time it takes to get to the cooler... The temp in the rest of the trans and the pan is cooler.

The stock cooler generally keeps the trans fluid around 100*F above ambient, unless under high load conditions.

-Charlie

 

[Sup41]

Replace your radiator right away no matter what. This will make it highly unlikely that you will get a pink milkshake in the near future. If you want absolute confidence that it will never happen than bypass the stock tranny cooler and install an aftermarket one.

Either way, you should still replace your radiator.

Gonna order. You got any recommendations on ones that are solid?

 

[Sup41]

Replace the radiator ASAP!

My '02 had about 140K miles when the trans cooler gave out. Turned a 2-3 hour job into a 2-3 day job. :ybrick: The replacement Denso radiator was $110 shipped from Rock Auto. I spent twice that in transmission fluid alone to flush it out.

BTW: The fittings are what fail on these Toyota in-radiator coolers -- it's a really bad design.

Do you do a lot of heavy towing? If not, don't bother with adding and aftermarket cooler. (IMHO)

Was this brand solid?

 

[Sup41]

It's a cheap Aluminum and plastic radiator. It is known to corrode through in the trans oil cooler area. Why debate?....replace! You can do it yourself(alone) in a couple or three hours (including draining and refilling the coolant, replacing the hoses and thermostat) using common tools.
I replaced mine when I got the truck at 16 years/120K miles. And mine's a 5-speed.

What brand did you replace yours with?

 

[tvpierce]

Was this brand solid?

Yes. It's a Denso brand part.

 

[thegipper]

Yes. It's a Denso brand part.

Another vote for Denso, they cost about $110 bucks online.

 

[Sup41]

Yes. It's a Denso brand part.

Hmmm..checking reviews on amazon - sounds like a good part that is packaged horribly and often arrives damaged. Thoughts?

 

[theesotericone]

Hmmm..checking reviews on amazon - sounds like a good part that is packaged horribly and often arrives damaged. Thoughts?

Yeah, your shipping an easily damaged component. It's a coin toss. I ordered a Spectre CU1998 from amazon warehouse deals. It was less then 70 bucks shipped to my door. That means someone returned it then it was shipped to me. So it went out and back then out. It arrived undamaged luckily. People have had brand new units shipped that had to go back because of damage, Like I said, coin toss.

 

[tvpierce]

Hmmm..checking reviews on amazon - sounds like a good part that is packaged horribly and often arrives damaged. Thoughts?

The overflow nipple on the neck was broken on the first radiator Rock Auto sent. It was packaged well, but there were holes in the box -- I think that's where the damage occurred.

Rock Auto sent a new part, and paid for the return shipping. Excellent customer service! IMHO

 

[19963.4lsr5]

The Denso I bought off amazon wasn't boxed well at all like others mentioned.


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[Snowden]

I am thankful for this reminder post. I really need to do this project; replace radiator and install the trans cooler.